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Front or rear? If front, look underneath to see if the passenger side torsion bar is broken, or if it has torn out of a rusted mount.
 

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DO NOT FEED THE TROLLS!
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How's the front? It should also be out of kilter if the back is. If it isn't then you have bigger problems.
 

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If a shock is stuck in the extended position and it isn't a load leveller-type air shock, then it is probably a spring issue.
I had to replace the rear springs and adjust the front t/bars in the Crown due to sag. The control arm bushings and all rubber cushions were just 'gone'. I installed HD gas shocks all around. It was a wonderfully riding and handling automobile when done.
The front torsion bar heights are adjustable as long as all anchors and control arm bushings are intact, as stated.
If you push down on the raised side, does it jounce for you? Instead of one side being high, could the other side be low?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
first of all i took passanger rear tire off looking for anything and i saw it; it was a missing bolt on the bar that mounts to the car ill put pic up ,, i put bolt in and now its lile a 1/2 inch off ,,but the driver side front is higher then the other side i can push down on the drivers front finder and it drops the back and it looks like its even but how do i lower the front drivers side...... and thank you.....
 

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DO NOT FEED THE TROLLS!
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As stated, the front torsion bars are adjustable. The torsion bars have adjuster screws- sometimes they're at the control arm, sometimes they're 3' to 4' back at the back end of the torsion bar, somewhere approximately under the front occupants. On this car I don't know which.
 

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I know of the 2 locating arms from the rear axle to the frame. If one arm bolt broke, look for any other bent or broken suspension components on either side. Eyeball both sides for differences in the way things look. A tape measurer can help confirm differences. Jacking the car to get underneath will distort these measurements, so you need either a drive-on lift or park over a work pit.
These bolts should not be tightened with the car raised and supported on jacks. The car needs to be sitting unsupported on a level surface with all 4 wheels on the ground. The same for any adjustments.
For this level of work you may want a service manual. The 1966 Full size Chryslers and Imperials were in the same manual, but were two very different cars. Looks like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-Chrysler-Shop-Manual-66-New-Yorker-300-LeBaron-Newport-Repair-Service-Book-/360319638637?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&vxp=mtr&hash=item53e4b95c6d
 

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Well this may sound a little on the strange side but here goes. I knew this fella at Ft. Meade Maryland back in the 70's.
He was a Civilian worker who had a glandular problem he went between 450 and 500 lbs. Anyway he had his Chrysler's
suspension modified to support his weight and so that the front end would stay in alignment. You see due to his problem
and the alignment problem was to put larger / heavier springs and torsion bars on the one side of the car there for that
side set of the car set 11/2 to 2 inches then the other side . Check it out if you put about 450 to 500 lbs the alignment
will be right on the mark. I know it's strange but true.

johnrbecker said:
Well this may sound a little on the strange side but here goes. I knew this fella at Ft. Meade Maryland back in the 70's.
He was a Civilian worker who had a glandular problem he went between 450 and 500 lbs. Anyway he had his Chrysler's
suspension modified to support his weight and so that the front end would stay in alignment. You see due to his problem
and the alignment problem was to put larger / heavier springs and torsion bars on the one side of the car there for that
side set of the car set 11/2 to 2 inches then the other side . Check it out if you put about 450 to 500 lbs the alignment
will be right on the mark. I know it's strange but true.
 
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