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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,
on friday my transmission stops shifting again. I was driving in trafic when all car start shaking. I stoped the car and turn the engine off. Then I start again and the transmission starts slipping no matter what gear was set ( drive or reverse ). Sometimes car start moving slowly at 4000 RPM but never go far. Today I took the oil pan searching for metal debris but nothing found. Transmission oil don't smell burnt and have normal color. Then I have found disconected input turbine speed sensor conector, put it back but the problem still persists. What should I do now?
 

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Did you disconnect the battery to clear codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, should I?
 

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I hate to say this, but slipping won't be caused by electronics. Likewise, the battery disconnect may clear any set codes but it won't reset anything as newer units have persistent memory unlike the early units.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
valiant67 said:
I hate to say this, but slipping won't be caused by electronics. Likewise, the battery disconnect may clear any set codes but it won't reset anything as newer units have persistent memory unlike the early units.
You were right. Battery disconnected for more than one hour and the problem still persists.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ImperialCrown said:
It sounds either hydraulic or mechanical. This 41TE was rebuilt a while back as I recall. Is there any warranty?
Yes my transmission was rebuilt in December 2012, but we have 2 year warranty in EU instead of 1 year like in the US. So there is still a half year of warranty.

Regarding slippage I suspect broken solenoid pack despite the fact that was changed during overhaul procedure.

My worst nightmare is removing transmission AGAIN send it to the shop and proof bad rebuilt.
 

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If there is a warranty, I wouldn't touch a thing until they can experience the problem first in person with the transaxle still in the vehicle. Once the diagnosis is done then it can come out (if it needs to come out). It sounds internal. Even with limp-in, you would have a strong Reverse and 2nd gear.
Will they pay for a tow to their shop if you can't drive it there?
Even if you have to pay for a tow back home to get the transaxle out it would be the best way, unless you can convince them that the problem is their fault and you shouldn't have to pay for the inconvenience and towing.
Ask on the phone which is the best way to handle this.
I would hope that they are fair about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yesterday was my friend here to make DRB III diagnostic and here the codes : P1791, P0736, P0731, P1790, P0732, P1784, P1782.

Today I was calling to the shop and the owner agree with towing my car to my friend's garage to get the transaxle out and check it out. When will be broken something that covers the warranty he will pay everything ( towing, removing transmission, parts
etc ). I think this is the pretty fair deal, because towing my car 290 miles to the first shop could cost approx.850 USD. How much do I pay in the US for towing car so far on the trailer?
 

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Those codes (especially the 1790 bad checksum) would lead me to look at the TCM and its wiring...
 

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But the TCM and wiring won't cause sliiping. Even with the TCM out of the picture completely 2nd and reverse should still work fine.
 

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Hmm. You're probably right, but if the TCM was really screwed up, isn't there a chance that it wouldn't activate limp mode?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Few minutes ago call me my friend new info about my transmission. He said that under drive clutch is totally backed up. Is there any explanations for this?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here is few pictures of my transmission:







Everything looks nice and clean instead of underdrive clutch :







This emulsion makes me worry :



 

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Water got into the ATF. How? Has the internal radiator cooler failed and let coolant into the transaxle? Was the dipstick out for any reason and water got in the dipstick tube?
The Underdrive/Overdrive clutch seal must have the seal lip facing the fluid pressure. It can be mistakenly put in backwards. That would cause a leak, slip and burn up the clutch as you see.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ImperialCrown said:
Water got into the ATF. How? Has the internal radiator cooler failed and let coolant into the transaxle? Was the dipstick out for any reason and water got in the dipstick tube?
The Underdrive/Overdrive clutch seal must have the seal lip facing the fluid pressure. It can be mistakenly put in backwards. That would cause a leak, slip and burn up the clutch as you see.
The dipstick was never out from the dipstick tube, but can't exclude internal radiator failure or underdrive/overdrive clutch seal facing wrong. How can I verify leakage from internal oil cooler? (Right now is my tranny after repair and working with external cooler only to avoid internal cooler failure)
 

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The pink, creamy emulsion looks like water or coolant mixed with the ATF+4.
If you have the radiator cooler fittings capped off, try removing the lower one and see if coolant drips out.
When the internal ATF cooler tube leaks, coolant usually enters and mixes with the ATF.
Is the transaxle working OK now?
 

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My 41TE had over 150,000 miles on it when I rebuilt it, and I didn't have that kind of scoring on my discs and clutches. That would make me suspicious that the unit wasn't put together correctly or sub-standard parts were used.

That being said, the emulsion is a larger issue. I second the coolant/water exposure, though I'd add an additional area to check. It appears to me that greatest concentration of the emulsion is in the area of the shift lever (where it passes through the case). There is supposed to be a seal on the shaft to keep the case sealed. I cannot tell from your photos if this seal is intact or not. It should be replaced when the transmission is serviced. If It wasn't replaced, or if it was never installed, the top of the transmission would have a nice hole in it for water or other contaminates to enter the case. Also, on many of the vehicles that use this transmission, the coolant lines (especially those that run to the heater core) run right above the shift lever. This is one more area to check for coolant leaks.

I'd be curious to see the filter as well. Does it appear to have any solid sediments in it? If so, that would indicate that the case was left unsealed in some way.

Also, the slipping you are talking about could simply have been caused by the transmission entering limp mode and trying to start in 2nd gear. 4000 rpm is about where the engine would need to be to get the vehicle moving from a start in 2nd gear under most conditions. And with that many codes related to the transmission, it is very likely the TCM went into limp mode to try to keep itself from being damaged further. I would say that in all likely hood, the "slipping" is not so much a cause of the problem as it is a symptom or result.
 
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