[scalebowler]

Here is the dashboard before I replaced it. The entire front area near the defroster was warped and cracking and the foam was all torn appart so I had to replace the dashboard. I was going to get one the same color but the junkyard decided to crush out the entire middle section of their chrysler lot while leaving all the other makes of cars untouched so I found the one that was the next best color and I do think it looks pretty good.

Also one question I have is does anyone know how to make the doors lock automaticly? It says something in the manual about that and how it could be dissabled by the dealer and I would like to get them to lock automaticly again.

 

[Rickorino]

Nice work. I was wondering if you changed out the heater core while you had the dash out?

 

[Oklahoma Wolf]

Also one question I have is does anyone know how to make the doors lock automaticly? It says something in the manual about that and how it could be dissabled by the dealer and I would like to get them to lock automaticly again.

Check the wiring harness on the BCM, behind the right side kick panel. You're looking for the orange/violet wire. If it's cut, repair it. That's the power lock trigger wire... often, the dealer would cut that wire to disable auto locking. If the wire's good, you might be out of luck in that the feature was disabled via scanner. You'd need access to a DRB II or equivalent.

 

[scalebowler]

Check the wiring harness on the BCM, behind the right side kick panel. You're looking for the orange/violet wire. If it's cut, repair it. That's the power lock trigger wire... often, the dealer would cut that wire to disable auto locking. If the wire's good, you might be out of luck in that the feature was disabled via scanner. You'd need access to a DRB II or equivalent.

I don't remember seeing any wires any wires being cut when I took the dashboard out of the car so I bet they used the scanner to dissable it. Any idea where I could take the car to get that feature turned back on?

Nice work. I was wondering if you changed out the heater core while you had the dash out?

Thanks! No I did not change out the heater core. Is that something I should have looked at when I had the dash out?

 

[Rickorino]

I have never done it but I have read many posts stating it is a very difficult job because the dash has to come out.

 

[SGspirit]

Very nice car, and great of you to refurbish it and so keep it out of the junkyards. I thought you could buy new "skins" to stick on the top of the dashboard. Maybe not for this model.

 

[scalebowler]

I have never done it but I have read many posts stating it is a very difficult job because the dash has to come out.

I bet it is something else to replace since that dash board took my friend and I about 4 hours to take out. Not sure about the heater core replacement but removing the dashboard was not actually as difficult as it was time consuming. Took my friend and I 12 hours of working to get the dashboard removed and the new one installed and the only reason we stopped the first day of working on it was because it was dark outside and I could not see what I was doing any more.

Very nice car, and great of you to refurbish it and so keep it out of the junkyards. I thought you could buy new "skins" to stick on the top of the dashboard. Maybe not for this model.

Thanks! I really hope to have this car for a very long time. Next major repair I have to get done is the rocker panel needs to be replaced on the passenger side due to a rust hole in it that I really don't want to get worse and spread into something that holds the car up. That I am going to have done at a body shop though since I don't have the tools or knowlege to do something like that. All ready have the replacement rocker panel ready to go and just need to locate an inner rocker panel before they can get that fixed.

 

[Marcos]

If the heater core is not leaking or plugged, I would not worry about it. You can check for plugging when you do a coolant change by flushing a garden hose through the heater hoses, both ways. If it seems restricted, then the passages are plugged.

Most aftermarket heater cores these days seem to be made of aluminum instead of copper and brass, and are of inferior construction compared to the originals. The one I put in my lebaron had a noticeably thinner core, but came with a note claiming that despite this, it had the same heat transfer capacity as the originals. Maybe so, but they did this by cramming more fins in there, which noticeably restricted the airflow and created extra noise from the system when in use.

 

[Oklahoma Wolf]

I don't remember seeing any wires any wires being cut when I took the dashboard out of the car so I bet they used the scanner to dissable it. Any idea where I could take the car to get that feature turned back on?

Any shop that has a Snap-On MT2500 with the proper cartridges and harness adaptors should be able to do it, I think. Some dealers may still have a way.

If the wire is cut, it'll be right up by the BCM connector, probably insulated with electrical tape. Maybe check for the lock relays, too - could be they pulled them instead. They'll be the two relays on the end in the relay block right above the glove box (the other two relays are for power antenna/Infinity and time delay). Incidentally, if there's a module or two hiding up in there, you may have remote keyless entry, too. Often the remotes get lost and future owners have no idea these cars could have the option. Anyway, that's where they stick the factory alarm and keyless entry modules. Usually if you have one, you have the other... they were part of an option package back in the day.

Only replace the heater core if you have to. I haven't had to do it once yet on these cars, and I've now had four based on this or the stretched version of this platform. Two were over 300k kms when they left me. If you do the heater core, do the AC evaporator too. IIRC the AC needs to be discharged and the whole airbox has to come out to replace either one - not a job you want to do twice.

 

[scalebowler]

Any shop that has a Snap-On MT2500 with the proper cartridges and harness adaptors should be able to do it, I think. Some dealers may still have a way.

If the wire is cut, it'll be right up by the BCM connector, probably insulated with electrical tape. Maybe check for the lock relays, too - could be they pulled them instead. They'll be the two relays on the end in the relay block right above the glove box (the other two relays are for power antenna/Infinity and time delay). Incidentally, if there's a module or two hiding up in there, you may have remote keyless entry, too. Often the remotes get lost and future owners have no idea these cars could have the option. Anyway, that's where they stick the factory alarm and keyless entry modules. Usually if you have one, you have the other... they were part of an option package back in the day.

Only replace the heater core if you have to. I haven't had to do it once yet on these cars, and I've now had four based on this or the stretched version of this platform. Two were over 300k kms when they left me. If you do the heater core, do the AC evaporator too. IIRC the AC needs to be discharged and the whole airbox has to come out to replace either one - not a job you want to do twice.

I do know there is one more module up in the dashboard besides the block with the two lock relays but I think that might just have the turn signal blinker and some other stuff on that. I do have a picture of the two parts from when I took the dashboard out (my friend and I took about 40 pictures to make sure we knew how everything went back together)

 

[Oklahoma Wolf]

Those three tabs with the screw holes next to the long relay block - that's where the bracket for the remote keyless entry module and factory alarm bolts to. No bracket with module, no remote keyless entry. I don't even see a wiring harness for it there.

You're wired for the Infinity audio system, but the relay is missing. That two wire harness taped to the main harness there is for the right side dash tweeter. Not really worth putting in there, as you will have a hard time finding working tweeters at the yards, but it's interesting to see that it has the option provided for.

 

[scalebowler]

Those three tabs with the screw holes next to the long relay block - that's where the bracket for the remote keyless entry module and factory alarm bolts to. No bracket with module, no remote keyless entry. I don't even see a wiring harness for it there.

You're wired for the Infinity audio system, but the relay is missing. That two wire harness taped to the main harness there is for the right side dash tweeter. Not really worth putting in there, as you will have a hard time finding working tweeters at the yards, but it's interesting to see that it has the option provided for.

No problem at all. Really the main thing I would like to have done is the door locking automaticly. Mostly would like them to do that since I work in a neighborhood that is not the best and at night I sometimes forget to hit the lock switch before I start driving. I will call around and see about finding a place to do that for me. (That or just get into the habit of hitting the lock switch)

So the dash tweeters are what was supposed to go under those speaker grills on the top of the dashboard? Was wondering what those were for. I think I will keep my stock radio though since it does sound pretty good and I don't really use it all that much either.

 

[scalebowler]

I figured out what the door locking problem was. When I first bought the car the button that tells the car the door is closed on the passenger side door was pushed in a little bit so when you closed the door it would not be pushed down enough to tell the car that the door had closed. Well when I replaced the dashboard I also worked with the button and got it to pop out so the car knew the door was closed and every time I drove it after that until today someone would hit the door lock switch before I even got out of the drive way. So today I just left them unlocked and started driving and once I hit around 15-20 mph the doors automaticly locked like they should. I feel kind of stupid for not looking for the simple thing first but at the same time I am glad that I don't have to have anyone mess with the computer and that they are now working.

 

[Oklahoma Wolf]

Glad you got it working

 

[scalebowler]

Glad you got it working

Thanks! I really appreciate the help on figuring out what was up with the door locks

 

[Kevin1990]

Congratulations!

Would be my dream daily, keep it clean as it is

 

[scalebowler]

Congratulations!

Would be my dream daily, keep it clean as it is

Thanks! It is a great car and I plan to keep it clean. Only things I have to do are get a new headliner installed and I have to replace the right side rocker panel. I got all the parts for the rocker panel and just need to schedule an appointment to get the body shop to put it in for me. Would also like to get a new set of hubcaps to replace the ones that are dented and scratched up. Thinking a few trips to the junkyard might get me a replacement set or a few to replace the worst ones.

 

[B10alia]

Very nice car. The older Mopers (and by older, I mean late 80's-mid 90's) are kind of stodgy in terms of styling and don't have stellar performance, but you really can't knock them for reliability. The main issue would probably be with the A604 transmission, but keep it fed with ONLY ATF+4 and you'll get very good service out of it. Boxy styling also translates to huge usable interior space. My '95 Spirit has bailed out owners of several newer cars, and I always get compliments on how roomy the interior is, even with taller passengers. Take care of the car and the car will take care of you.

 

[scalebowler]

Got new tires, and struts and shocks today. Only thing I noticed is that there is a tiny oil leak around one bolt on the oil pan (I think the gasket needs to be replaced) and the odometer quit working. I checked all the connections for the gauge cluster and they are all tight so I think a gear or something got stripped out. I have no problem poping it open and fixing the part but the thing I am worried about is accidently getting the needle on the gauge messed up and having it display incorrect speeds. Also not sure where to get parts besides the junkyard and with that I don't know if the one I would get would have the same problem or not.