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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2004 Chrysler Concorde with peeling paint, a dented bumper and 210,000 miles on it. It needs a catalytic converter to pass inspection to the tune of $1,500. I have a couple of options.

1. Get the converter and keep this car as a winter beater for when i get my Dodge Challenger this Spring.

2. Junk the car and get the Challenger to replace it.

Any opinions? I'd hate to dump that much money into this thing only to have the engine die on me in a couple months. It has the 3.5l V6.
 

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Virginia Gentleman
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Not sure where you are located, but Advance Auto lists several converters for far less than $1500. Anywhere from $69.99 to $313.99.

I'd go with option 2 only if I couldn't get it installed for $300-$400 at most.
 

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Can you donate it before the weekend and get an extra $500 off your taxes?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The issue with after market converters on these cars is it doesn't always satisfy the sensor and would still fail emmisions.

I think I'm going to get it done. I don;'t want to drive the Challenger in the winter. Or park it in parking lots. LOL.
 

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Shop around. That price is obscene, double what it should cost.
 

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96 LHS said:
The issue with after market converters on these cars is it doesn't always satisfy the sensor and would still fail emmisions.

I think I'm going to get it done. I don;'t want to drive the Challenger in the winter. Or park it in parking lots. LOL.
Depending upon your state, which is critical, you may need a converter with a CARB certification number.
If not, there are very affordable converters on line at places like Summit and Jegs.
Do it yourself and save the $800 labor fee.
 

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Which converter? There are the left and right ones off the manifolds that have specially formed pipes and possibly one under the car with 2 inlets to single outlet. The fault code may help determine which bank or converter is involved.
The ones off the manifolds would be fairly expensive. Universal converters would still need pipes made and welded to it. Forget about used, I don't think that a yard can legally sell them to you. Look for cats that certify OBD II compliance to pass emissions (except as noted in California).

http://www.converterwarehouse.com/catalytic_converters/converters.cfm?Make=CHRYSLER&YearSelected=2004&CylSelected=6&Model=CONCORDE
 

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ImperialCrown said:
Which converter? There are the left and right ones off the manifolds that have specially formed pipes and possibly one under the car with 2 inlets to single outlet. The fault code may help determine which bank or converter is involved.
The ones off the manifolds would be fairly expensive. Universal converters would still need pipes made and welded to it. Forget about used, I don't think that a yard can legally sell them to you. Look for cats that certify OBD II compliance to pass emissions (except as noted in California).

http://www.converterwarehouse.com/catalytic_converters/converters.cfm?Make=CHRYSLER&YearSelected=2004&CylSelected=6&Model=CONCORDE
Great points, I had forgotten about the dual cats. Some states, including CA, have an exemption if the repair will cost over a certain amount. He may be able to get a hardship pass, good for one year.

Our Hemi conversion still needs to prove the Mopar Part number on our Cat. had a CARB approval...and it's an OEM part!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I wound up getting it done. I don't have the time or place to do it myself and I've heard too many horror stories about aftermarket. The car will last me at least two more winters so in my mind it will pay itself off. The drivetrain is solid and although the paint looks like hell it has zero rust.

This car will be the every day driver for me so I can keep the miles off the Challenger I get. That Challenger will become my every day driver when I upgrade to an R/T...the Cuda.
 

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Yeah I was going to say it's worth fixing especially if you know that the rest of the car is in good shape and has been maintained well. Because NOT doing it, sure you save $1000-$1500, but then you have to go out and replace the car with something else and for $1000-$1500 you will end up with a real beater with unknown repair history.

Or if you decided to sell it as is, you'd only get $1000 for it, and again you can't find a decent car for $1000. And if you extrapolate out further and add the repair savings to what you could sell the car as-is for, that adds up to about $2250 or so -- which isn't much to go shopping for a used car with.
 
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