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I've done a little looking on the net and can't find any bolt on's just porting and polishing the heads, intake and TB....is there anything else besides the Turbo?
 

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There really is not much for the 3.0. Most of the mods do little if any to boost performance. The factory computer is the holdback.
 

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i put a custom intake on mine
ported and polished the intake manifold
got a matched set of injectors
bigger exhaust high flow cat.

i notice a difference.
 

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neon98rt said:
i put a custom intake on mine
ported and polished the intake manifold
got a matched set of injectors
bigger exhaust high flow cat.

i notice a difference.
I pulled an intake manifold from a '90 Lebaron and a 52mm throttle body off a '92 New Yorker for my '92 Lebaron this week. Will be taking my time porting and polishing per the Kelly-Mulhern website guide.
Plan on running a cone-type intake somewhere under the hood.

When you say "matched set of injectors, what do you mean?
 

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Ser Creighton Longbough said:
I pulled an intake manifold from a '90 Lebaron and a 52mm throttle body off a '92 New Yorker for my '92 Lebaron this week. Will be taking my time porting and polishing per the Kelly-Mulhern website guide.
Plan on running a cone-type intake somewhere under the hood.

When you say "matched set of injectors, what do you mean?
they all flow the same. Most auto part store have an injector cleaner and they can tell you if you have a weak one. I bought a set that was matched already.

can you link that website for me?

I like the "somewhere" part about the intake. There isnt much room and putting it behind the battery in the heat is counterproductive. The battery in the trunk is the best way. Expensive set up since wire cost a lot now and you will need a sealed battery.
 

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neon98rt said:
they all flow the same. Most auto part store have an injector cleaner and they can tell you if you have a weak one. I bought a set that was matched already.

can you link that website for me?

I like the "somewhere" part about the intake. There isnt much room and putting it behind the battery in the heat is counterproductive. The battery in the trunk is the best way. Expensive set up since wire cost a lot now and you will need a sealed battery.
Sure thing.

http://www.kmperformance.com/index2.html

Click on "Tech Center" on the left black sidebar to bring you to a Maintenance & Modification page. The porting and polishing the plenum is under modifications. There is a lot of really good info on that site for the do-it-yourself-er.

No, there is not a lot of room under the hood. Seems to me the factory intake tubing will produce colder air to the engine than putting a cone filter in the upper engine bay.

I thought about routing one down behind the radiator, but thats a tight bend.

I'm also wondering if i could trim some of the metal away where the factory air intake originates (behind the drivers side headlights), put a cone filter there and run it straight to the throttle body.
 

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here is mine as of yesterday. i put a small battery so i had room. The battery was 200 dollars.... About the same cost as moving an optima to the trunk. My intake use to go between the battery and the engine on the other side but the air went in the manifold at a right angle and that was not good. you want a straight shot not a turbulent curve.

I need to clean it up a bit. my battery hold down was too small and i bought covers for the battery terminal ends. I am going to add a block off to keep the engine heat away and may extend the filter a bit more . That is all the pipe i had atm.
 

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Evidently the supercharger from the GM 3.8L and some Fords of the same vintage can be made to fit on that intake with the use of an aluminum or steel adapter plate. That or a turbo would give you a bigger performance boost.

Furthermore, this 6G7X family of engines come in various sizes, and most can be interchanged rather easily. The 3.5L (6G75, I believe.) is pretty potent, as are the newer versions of the 3.0L. The problem with going to a newer setup are the computer controls. The way around this is to basically do a long block swap, but you may not get the full potential out of the swap, as the electronics could limit you.

There is a 3.8L available in this engine family as well, the latest and greatest is still in use. It's now called the MiVEC engine... It's pretty potent, but it would not be a direct swap. In fact, even the older 3.8L is harder to swap. But, a newer, higher compression 3.0L and/or a 3.5L could be swapped easily for a nice power gain. The 3.5L has quite a bit of low end torque...
 

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Jerry Simcik said:
Evidently the supercharger from the GM 3.8L and some Fords of the same vintage can be made to fit on that intake with the use of an aluminum or steel adapter plate. That or a turbo would give you a bigger performance boost.

Furthermore, this 6G7X family of engines come in various sizes, and most can be interchanged rather easily. The 3.5L (6G75, I believe.) is pretty potent, as are the newer versions of the 3.0L. The problem with going to a newer setup are the computer controls. The way around this is to basically do a long block swap, but you may not get the full potential out of the swap, as the electronics could limit you.

There is a 3.8L available in this engine family as well, the latest and greatest is still in use. It's now called the MiVEC engine... It's pretty potent, but it would not be a direct swap. In fact, even the older 3.8L is harder to swap. But, a newer, higher compression 3.0L and/or a 3.5L could be swapped easily for a nice power gain. The 3.5L has quite a bit of low end torque...
can i get a job where you work. it sounds like you make a lot of money. I am more on the 100 dollar mod or homemade mod side. I am looking through the trash now for a piece of plastic to block the hot air from getting too easily to the filter... lol
 

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Haha - I don't make that much. When I did the engine swap, I found a 3,000 mile 3.0L out of a 2005 Eclipse GTS for only $600. Did the work myself...

And as far as blocking hot air for the intake, try a piece of tin or sheet metal. If you really want to be fancy, do this, then use some thermal insulation (like you find for use in car door panels, floors, etc.) on top of that.
 

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Jerry Simcik said:
Haha - I don't make that much. When I did the engine swap, I found a 3,000 mile 3.0L out of a 2005 Eclipse GTS for only $600. Did the work myself...

And as far as blocking hot air for the intake, try a piece of tin or sheet metal. If you really want to be fancy, do this, then use some thermal insulation (like you find for use in car door panels, floors, etc.) on top of that.
thanks. i will look for some aluminum sheets.
 

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Maybe something like this:




The top "L" shape fits snug up against the hood insulation, the rest of the "box" shields the intake from engine bay heat. Needs to be near the front of the car (behind headlights) to work properly. It's a steeda intake for a Ford Fusion; Steeda claims the design to be at least 10-15 degrees cooler than the engine bay temperature.

This is a difference one, which illustrates the concept better:

 

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I will have to make mine. I dont think i will find a box pre made that will fit. I got the metal the other day. My idea is to get the fresh air that comes from the holes by the headlight and up from the road and to block off any from the sides. I already have a tube bringing fresh air from the front of the car close to the air filter. Even after a long drive with my new " ram air" the filter is not even warm to the touch. I keep forgetting to put a thermometer there.
 

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I will have to make mine. I dont think i will find a box pre made that will fit. I got the metal the other day. My idea is to get the fresh air that comes from the holes by the headlight and up from the road and to block off any from the sides. I already have a tube bringing fresh air from the front of the car close to the air filter. Even after a long drive with my new " ram air" the filter is not even warm to the touch. I keep forgetting to put a thermometer there.
Yeah, that's what I figured; I just posted those pics up for a visual 'concept'.....aaand the fact that I have a V6 Fusion (3.0) as my DD, and have the one in the second pic installed in mine. ;)
It's bigger than it looks, probably too big to fit in the LeBaron, unless one has the small size battery like you have. Also it has a machined cut out in the side behind the box for the MAF sensor, which would need to be filled in and smoothed out.

At some point I will probably pull it out of the Fusion and see just what would need to happen to make it, or one like it, to fit.

I agree, the area behind the driver-side headlight is the only place that makes sense.

Where did you get that battery?
It's that, or one in the trunk.
 

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summit racing has them. It is actually better than my walmart battery in every way. The 21 on it means 21 pounds. I needed a battery so i upgraded.

Currently there is an actual battery hold down now and boots for the terminals. No wood .
 

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I added the heat shield. You cant see that it goes down the side of the radiator too. It actually works way better than i expected. i put one of those indoor out door thermometers on my filter . The temp under the shield is the same as the outside. If i let the hot engine sit the temp goes up but quickly goes back down to the outside temp. I do have an air scoop that goes from the car air dam to inside the box. Maybe i should plug that and see what happens. I wonder if i can run this in the winter? Is there such a thing as too cold of air?
 

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I added the heat shield. You cant see that it goes down the side of the radiator too. It actually works way better than i expected. i put one of those indoor out door thermometers on my filter . The temp under the shield is the same as the outside. If i let the hot engine sit the temp goes up but quickly goes back down to the outside temp. I do have an air scoop that goes from the car air dam to inside the box. Maybe i should plug that and see what happens. I wonder if i can run this in the winter? Is there such a thing as too cold of air?

How low is the air filter, in relation to the road? As far as "too cold" of air temp, I don't think so, but I really don't know; but we've all seen snorkels on jeeps, and other cars where people have removed the low fog lights and having the intake begin there......so I don't think you can go too cold....unless maybe you're north of the arctic circle, and winter lasts six months. :cool:

As long as you're not low enough to have water getting sucked in while driving in the rain, I think you'll be ok.
 

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I somehow screwed up the "quote/edit" thingy in the above post, the quote and the reply got jumbled up together.

I tried to fix it, but my "10 minute window" to fix it has regretfully expired.:rolleyes:....10 minute window....you gotta be kidding...
Seriously? Little on the strict side, hunh?
I DO NOT like this new software format at all, btw.

Seven Hells, now I gotta pay for an avatar picture. Not cool.

Anyways, back on topic....... neon98rt, I like what you have there. I'm inspired to make mine work in a similar fashion; colder air, straight shot to my soon to be newly polished and ported intake.
 

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thank you. I am impressed how it keeps that area cool. When the car is hot and the engine is off the heat does sneek into that area, but after about 10 min of driving it is the same as outside. It also stays cool longer in town since there is only 25mph wind flow.
 
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