Need help with Cam/Crank sensor issues and timing problems Running out of ideas. (Merged).

Front Cover - 53022195AM, shows available

Compressor - 55111443AD - shows available

AC lines
High side - 5135992AA - shows not available
Low side - 5134992AA - shows not available

Cam - 53022263AF - available (5.7)
Lifters - 785/786AD, available

5.7 Harness - 5508001AG - still available !!!

I wouldn't waste time with the 6.4 cam. It would move peak power and torque quite a bit higher in the RPM range, and would require a tune for engine and transmission. A bigger, heavier vehicle needs that torque down low. A 6.4HD cam might help there, but getting that entire engine would be easier, at that point. As far as the oil pump, that won't do anything at all to prevent lifter failure (unless the pump you have is NG). I would say oil volume is probably more important than peak pressure in these things.

AHBGuru said:

Front Cover - 53022195AM, shows available

Click to expand...

That's the same front cover I already have. It comes on any 2009+ Durango, Aspen, or Ram. It relocates the AC compressor and Alternator. The Alternator is no problem but the AC requires a different compressor and different hoses.

AHBGuru said:

Compressor - 55111443AD - shows available

Click to expand...

This is correct but, very expensive. There is no aftermarket alternative that I could find. Either get it from the dealer or junkyard.

AHBGuru said:

AC lines
High side - 5135992AA - shows not available
Low side - 5134992AA - shows not available

Click to expand...

5135992AA - This is the under vehicle line and is not needed for the swap.
5134992AA- This pulls up a busing?

Either way you won't find the needed part number for the AC hoses. The AC lines in the pre-2009 are correct but, there's an extension pipe going from the compressor to the suction line.

AHBGuru said:

As far as the oil pump, that won't do anything at all to prevent lifter failure (unless the pump you have is NG). I would say oil volume is probably more important than peak pressure in these things.

Click to expand...

The hellcat oil pump is a high volume oil pump. It increases the amount of oil getting to the lifters and specifically at idle.

Engine is in. Ran into a lot of little issue. Have them documented and mostly resolved.

I have two remaining issues to fix.

I'm getting a P0958 - Autostick Circuit High. This is because I used a RAM PCM instead of a Durango/Aspen. The Donor obviously had AutoStick. The BCM has an option to turn it off but, it seems the PCM ignores that change. The Autostick works by selecting different resistors for different button pushes. I'm going to find a resistor to drop the voltage to the correct level. Just need to figure out what the voltage is.

The bigger concern is the various cam/crank sensor codes I am getting. I'm already pulling hair out.

First I was getting a bunch of codes like P0016. I replaced the Crankshaft sensor and the Camshaft sensor. I started getting P340 or P344. The truck starts but, stays in limp mode. I can put the old camshaft sensor back in and get the P0016 code again.

So I'm stuck. I'm not sure if the old sensor is good and the problem has something to do with the VVT or the new sensor is good and I have a potential wiring issue or other gremlin.

I have checked the connections between the PCM and the sensor connector and it looks good. I've also checked the voltages at the sensor and it drops to zero when metal goes in front of it so that works.

I'm going to buy a new battery as this one constantly requires a jump and might be part of the issue. While I'm there I'll get another cam sensor. I'll also double check the oil and see if that's causing any issues.


Any other ideas throw them at me.

Auto-Stick is learned by the instrument cluster. Can your scan tool toggle or reset it? The PCM is looking for something that isn't there. High=open circuit.

You may need the engine compartment wiring harness out of a VCT or splice your existing 2007 harness over to a 2009+ equivalent. Did all the engine sensor connectors find a home?

08 - Electrical / 8J - Instrument Cluster / INDICATOR, Transmission Range / Description
DESCRIPTION
An electronic automatic transmission gear selector indicator is standard factory-installed equipment on this vehicle. However, on vehicles not equipped with an optional automatic transmission, this indicator is electronically disabled. The gear selector indicator information is displayed in an electronic, Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) unit. This LCD unit is soldered onto the cluster electronic circuit board and is visible through a window with a smoked clear lens located on the lower edge of the cluster overlay. The dark lens over the LCD prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated.

The gear selector indicator displays the following characters from left to right: P, R, N, D, +/-. Each character appears in an amber color for low line models and white for high line models, and at the same lighting level as the odometer information. Respectively, these characters represent the PARK, REVERSE, NEUTRAL, DRIVE positions and manual shift positions of the transmission gear selector lever. The indicator illuminates the character that represents the currently selected lever position, red for reverse and green for all others. If the vehicle equipped with the auto stick feature the +/- has an arrowhead pointer directing the driver to look up to the LCD display where the gear selected is being displayed.

During daylight hours (exterior lamps are OFF) the gear selector indicator is illuminated at full brightness for clear visibility. At night (exterior lamps are ON), the indicator lighting level is adjusted with the other cluster general illumination lamps using the panel lamps dimmer thumbwheel on the headlamp switch. However, a PARADE mode position of the panel lamps dimmer thumbwheel allows the indicator to be illuminated at full brightness if the exterior lamps are turned ON during daylight hours.

The gear selector indicator is serviced as a unit with the VFD unit in the instrument cluster.

ImperialCrown said:

Auto-Stick is learned by the instrument cluster. Can your scan tool toggle or reset it? The PCM is looking for something that isn't there. High=open circuit.

You may need the engine compartment wiring harness out of a VCT or splice your existing 2007 harness over to a 2009+ equivalent. Did all the engine sensor connectors find a home?

08 - Electrical / 8J - Instrument Cluster / INDICATOR, Transmission Range / Description
DESCRIPTION
An electronic automatic transmission gear selector indicator is standard factory-installed equipment on this vehicle. However, on vehicles not equipped with an optional automatic transmission, this indicator is electronically disabled. The gear selector indicator information is displayed in an electronic, Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) unit. This LCD unit is soldered onto the cluster electronic circuit board and is visible through a window with a smoked clear lens located on the lower edge of the cluster overlay. The dark lens over the LCD prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated.

The gear selector indicator displays the following characters from left to right: P, R, N, D, +/-. Each character appears in an amber color for low line models and white for high line models, and at the same lighting level as the odometer information. Respectively, these characters represent the PARK, REVERSE, NEUTRAL, DRIVE positions and manual shift positions of the transmission gear selector lever. The indicator illuminates the character that represents the currently selected lever position, red for reverse and green for all others. If the vehicle equipped with the auto stick feature the +/- has an arrowhead pointer directing the driver to look up to the LCD display where the gear selected is being displayed.

During daylight hours (exterior lamps are OFF) the gear selector indicator is illuminated at full brightness for clear visibility. At night (exterior lamps are ON), the indicator lighting level is adjusted with the other cluster general illumination lamps using the panel lamps dimmer thumbwheel on the headlamp switch. However, a PARADE mode position of the panel lamps dimmer thumbwheel allows the indicator to be illuminated at full brightness if the exterior lamps are turned ON during daylight hours.

The gear selector indicator is serviced as a unit with the VFD unit in the instrument cluster.

Click to expand...

I'll double check the cluster module to see if there is an option there to turn it off. There is an option in the BCM which is turned off.

In regards to the harness. I updated the 2007 Aspen harness to match a 2009 Aspen harness. I had the wiring diagrams and connector information. Here are the modifications I made.

• Added a wire from the PCM connector to the MDS/VVT jumper for the addition of VVT.
• Added two wires from the PCM to the SVR connector to add the intake runner control.
• Changed the camshaft connector from the 2007 version to the 2009 version.
• Lengthened the Throttle Body, IAT, AC Clutch, and MAP sensor connectors.

In order to add the autostick there are several connectors that would need to be added inside the cab as well as a different cluster and potentially a different steering column. The feature is cool... but not that cool LOL. If I can't find a way to just turn it off I'll just add a resistor.

Is anyone willing to go measure the resistance on their shifter?

The bigger problem is the camshaft sensor causing the limp mode..... ugg.....

The new battery is in which did not help.
Checked the oil it's fine.
Actuated the VVT and it sounds like it's working. Hard to tell with out having the intake off.

If I back probe it and measure the frequency the new sensor definitely works although it jumps around a bit. Something in the range of 115Hz to 130Hz at 900 RPM. The original sensor is much steadier at 100Hz to 110Hz at 900 RPM.

Old Sensor gives a P0016 code.
New Sensor gives a P0340 or P0344. Sometimes a crankshaft code pops up to. I didn't write down which it was.

I'm waiting for it to cool off so I can back probe the cranksensor. I'm also going to double check the starter connection as it's been suggested as a cause of the P0340.

Smallish update.

I checked a bunch of different things and redid some of the wiring just to make sure.

• Cut, restriped, and resoldered the wires to the Cam Shaft Position Sensor.
• Took the intake off and removed the VVT Solenoid to check the condition. The thing is of course spotless. Used the scan tool to actuate it and it works perfectly. At least mechanically.
• Double checked the wiring on the SVR just to be sure it was good.

Put everything back together and installed Another brand new Cam Position Sensor. This time it was an NTK brand.

This time while testing I watched the Crank/Cam Difference, the Desired Exhaust Cam Position, the Actual Exhaust Cam Position, and the Cam Sync Status on the scan tool.

Here is the results.

NEW NTK Cam Position Sensor Installed. NEW CarQuest Crank Sensor.

• Perfect start
• Perfect Idle
• Cam Sync Status = Not in Sync
• Cam/Crank Difference = 30° (On start this value comes up and never change until started again. It will appear anywhere between 29.5° to 32°. There was ONE time that it said 8°. I think it's supposed to be single digits while idling).
• Limp Mode Immediately after start up.
• P0344 set immediately on start.

Old Cam Position Sensor Installed. New CarQuest Crank Sensor.

• Perfect Start
• Perfect Idle
• Cam Sync Status = In Sync
• Cam/Crank Difference = 30° (With the old sensor installed this value actually moves around after starting but, still 29.5° to 32°)
• Limp Mode a little bit after start up not immediately.
• P0016 set.

Additionally, when the old Cam Position Sensor is installed I was able to get it to stay out of limp mode every few starts for a few minutes. However, if I revved it up past 3000 it would randomly make a god awful screeching noise and immediately go into limp mode. While in limp mode the noise never happens. I also noticed that when the noise happened the cam/crank difference would rocket up to 60°.

Scratching my head on this one still. I'm going to use a bore scope to look in the timming cover and see if I can see anything. Make sure the tensioner and guide are still installed. I'm also going to look in the cylinders to see if anything is going on in there. Basically I'm going to inspect everywhere I can without taking the timming cover off. I'm pretty sure in the end I'm going to have to take the cover off.

Would a spun bearing be able to cause this?

I know that NTK/NGK is the OEM source for O2 sensors. I don't know who supplies the cam & crank sensors for Mopar.
Your 2 brands certainly show a difference.

The cam sensor has a revised part number, I don't know if this changes anything. The crank sensor part number has not changed.
There is also a warning about MDS solenoid removal, if this applies.






Camshaft Position Sensor connector repair kit (pigtail) is Mopar part #68137864AC if you suspect that the connection itself is intermittent.

I need some MAJOR help and it may be that I just need help pushing this truck over a cliff. I'll give you the backstory first but, I'm having a hell of a time getting the timing to work. I'll explain in detail below.

Backstory:
My 2007 truck dropped a rod a blew holes in the block. I had the bright idea of swapping in a 2009 Eagle Hemi into the truck along with everything needed to have the VVT and SRV systems working.

I found a 2009 engine for a reasonable price. I tore it apart to make sure everything was good and found it had a bad cam due to a lifter dying and chewing it up. So great time to put a better cam in. Here is a list of EXACTLY what I did.

• Cleaned the block and removed all of the carbon from the cylinders. I did not remove the crankshaft, rods, or pistons.
• Installed a cam from a VVT, MDS, 6.4L
• Replaced 4 of the lifters
• Replaced all of the valve springs with Enginetech ERV1451 springs. I made sure to remove the old seat/spacer and only use the 1mm shim packaged with the springs.
• Replaced the PCM with a PCM from a 2009 Ram 1500
• Added wiring for the SRV
• Added wiring for the VVT
• Replaced the VVT Solenoid
• Replaced the timing chain, crank sprocket, chain tensioner, and the chain guide
• Installed an oil pump from a Hellcat motor
• Extended the wiring on the IAT, ETC and the MAP sensor connector.
• Changed the connector on the cam shaft sensor from the '07 version to the 09' version

There were other issues but, nothing that I think would be relevant to this issue.

Results:
The motor ran fine at first. Or at least it seemed to while parked. I let it idle to operating temp to just make sure everything was working.

The next day I started it up and drove it. It went into limp mode and wouldn't shift into high gear or rev above 3000 RPM. I parked it for a bit and cleared the PCM. When I started it again it stayed out of Limp mode. When I drove it was fine for a few feet and then a loud whine and loss of power. Every time I pushed on the gas it would whine and lose power. I can only describe it as a transmission that was slipping out of gear. I stopped and checked everything. After that it drove fine but only in Limp mode. I figured it was because I had cleared the LP counters. I chalked it up to a temporary transmission issue.

Reading the codes I was getting a ton of codes for crank/cam issues. I replaced both the cam sensor and crank sensor with car quest sensors from Advance and attempted to have the PCM relearn them. The truck would immediately go into limp once started. I then bought NTK sensors and tried them. Same problems. I rechecked the wiring, pulled the intake and checked the VVT solenoid, and double checked the oil. No change. At this point I can drive the truck but not over 55mph and it won't shift into high gear as it's obviously in limp mode. My next thought was to reinstall the original cam sensor. I got different codes but, I noticed I could get it to stay out of limp mode for a bit. Revving it past 3000 and everything sounded good and then that loud whine and immediately into limp mode. So now I know the whine is not the transmission but, I'm completely at a loss as to what it is.

Here is a better summary with what I was seeing on the scan tool.

First Start after rebuild old crankshaft sensor and old camshaft sensor:
- Multiple codes for crankshaft/camshaft. Squeal at higher RPMs with loss of power and immediate limp mode.

New CarQuest Camshaft and Crankshaft sensors installed:

• Limp mode on start
• P0344 and P0340 codes
• Cam Sync = No Sync
• Cam/Crank Difference = 30° (This value will only change at startup and doesn't not change while running it does bounce around 29° and 32°. One time it went to 8L)

New NTK Camshaft and Crankshaft sensors installed:

• Limp mode on start
• P0344 and P0340 codes
• Cam Sync = No Sync
• Cam/Crank Difference = 30°

New Crankshaft Sensor original Camshaft Sensor:

• Limp mode after running for a few minutes
• P0016 set at start
• Cam Sync = Synced
• Cam/Crank Difference = 30° ( With the original sensor this value will change while idling but, not by much)
• While not in limp mode I can rev over 3000 RPM at which point it will randomly let out a loud squeal and drop RPMs. This happened in idle.

Does anyone have any ideas on what to look for?
Any ideas on the load high pitched noise that randomly happens over 3000 RPM?
Any thoughts on checking timing without pulling the timing cover?
Can a VVT sprocket go bad?

I have ordered a new Mopar camshaft sensor to see if that helps. I am trying to avoid taking the timing cover off but, I think I'm going to have too. I'm going to try and stick a borescope in the hole for the camshaft sensor to see if I can see anything wrong with the timing chain and sprockets.