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Hey Bob, not too bad on the 2.5 but at the drags I have taken the neon 2.0 to 8,000 rpm. Granted I did modify it to stiffer valve springs as the stock valve train floated at 7,000 rpm or so. I just don't see the 2.4 matching that, not saying it's impossible just very unlikely. Oh I also had a performance pcm in it which allowed the higher rpm. At 8,000rpm those balance shafts are turning 16,000 rpm and I just don't see them staying together.
 

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Nor would Chrysler. That's why a stock engine is not made to, nor does it need to. :rolleyes:

And I guarantee you a stock Neon's ECM would cut out the igntion way before 8K RPM, as my Daytona did. It would have to be bypassed or modified to get to 8K RPM.
 

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A member of my Neon club had a G1 with a 2.4L swap. That thing was pretty fun to drive.

What wakes these cars up more than anything is a transmission swap, though. It's a night/day difference between the stomp-n-steer and the row-your-own.
 

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The Neon's had a speed limiter and rev limiter built into the PCM. It would cut off fuel/ignition at a certain speed or rpm. The Speed Limiter would be set for the Speed Rating of the Tires that the vehicle came equipped with OEM. The Rev Limiter was set to a few hundred rpm above the Redline on the Tach.

So, depending on the year and options, there were different limits. The R/T and ACR's of some years came with higher speed rated tires, thus a higher speed limiter. The DOHC had a higher Redline RPM than the SOHC, so it came with a higher rev limiter.

The 2nd Gen Neons came with a rev limiter for when the engine was in Neutral or Park, very low, like 3500 rpm. Perhaps because of the warnings of reving the engine in neutral could damage the AC Compressor, or perhaps to combat the teenagers doing neutral drops to spin tires.

The Mopar Performance and some of the aftermarket performance PCM's had higher rev limiters and speed limiters, but I don't think any eliminated them.

Balance Shafts? One of the performance mods is to cut and remove the chain for the balance shafts on the 2.4L, people that did it, commented the difference in NVH from the engine is barely noticeable. The 2.4L is longer stroke than the 2.0L, which makes sense the greater reciprocation would create more NVH and thus they may have believed the balance shafts were necessary when the 2.0L was not equipped with them. Or perhaps the 2.0L was designated the lesser engine and not worth the premium of balance shafts.

The only automatic trans option till near the end, was the decades outdated 31TH, combined with a poor low end torque of the 4 cyl did not make for good performance. Meanwhile a good Manual Trans was on the shelf and it did make all the world of difference.

IIRC, my Neon R/T came OEM PCM Rev Limiter was 7250 RPM, the Mopar Performance PCM I put in it was 7400 RPM. I rarely bounced off the rev limiter, but drove a little crazy and took the motor up to redline often. And with a 7k redline, that alone was good enough reason to use Synthetic Oil, that superior film strength would protect better than conventional under the high stress.

On the forums there more than a few complaints of Neon 2.0L spinning a main bearing, my personal theory was people not using better oil, not changing it often enough and then taking the motor up to the high redlines it was capable of. Not to mention another favorite topic on the Neon forums was switching to lighter and lighter weight oil, for some reasons the younger folks with Neons got the impression that the lower the viscosity numbers on the oil the better it must be. People were litterally posting "I've been hearing good things about 0 weight oil, I think I'm going to switch". And when I wold post, "No stick to the 10W30 that is recommended, thinner oil is not better for you engine" it would go right over their heads. They would say things like, "Have you've picked up a bottle of 0 weight oil and shook it, its like water" Ugh, there was just no reasoning with some of these folks.
 

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It has been done. Acquiring a donor car is the best place to start. The 2.4L is larger than the 2.0L and mount, accessory, wiring, exhaust, etc. modifications may be needed. It would be best to discuss this with someone who may have already 'cloned' a base Neon into an SRT-4. An SRT-4 donor car that has been crashed may be hard to find. You would need to virtually be the first one on the scene before it got stripped. They are in demand.
There are Neon clubs for racing and show. The 10th element is serious about Neons. Some of them get a little crazy and that is OK.
A 2.4L non-turbo may offer noticeably more torque than the 2.0L, but is a lot of work for the net results. There are V6 Neons that have been done and I'm sure that it was a lot of work to accomplish. If this is still going to be your daily driver and you have to meet state emission and safety requirements, then you still have to keep it both legal and dependable.
I found a 'Rallye' cluster out of a Neon R/T for my '96 that had the tach and swapped a 5-speed for the automatic, but I left it a 2.0L.
Going to stick-shift from an automatic made a big difference in performance for me. I could now use the Mopar Performance PCM without the 'ck eng' light staying on. It definitely gave the car some seat-of-the-pants 'snap'.
Chrysler 2.0 liter engines (used mainly in Dodge Neons) (at http://www.allpar.com/mopar/2.html )
The 2.4 liter four-cylinder Chrysler-Dodge engine (at http://www.allpar.com/mopar/24.html )
I put a PT Cruiser 5 speed trans in my 2004 R/T Neon in place of the OEM 5 sp trans and now the charge light is on .I did not have a problem before.Did your swap have this problem?
 

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Welcome to Allpar. The red battery symbol?
No I didn't, what is the fault code stored in the PCM? Double-check your wiring and connectors.
 

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. . . I put a PT Cruiser 5 speed trans in my 2004 R/T Neon in place of the OEM 5 sp trans and now the charge light is on .I did not have a problem before.Did your swap have this problem? . . .
I believe through 2004 model year the Dodge Neon had a battery temperature sensor. I owned a 2003 Neon and it was equipped with this sensor. It was integrated into the insulating sleeve that surrounds the battery. The wiring harness needs to be plugged into the sensor and the sensor held firmly against the battery case to sense battery temperature. Maybe this became disconnected or discarded in the transmission swap?

You can confirm if there is a charging problem or something else. With engine idling use a volt - ohm meter and monitor voltage at the battery. If it is around 13.8 - 14.0 volts then it is NOT a charging issue and most likely a missing battery temperature sensor.
 
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