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Pull the MSD out and throw it away. Install Mopar electronic dissy and ignition.

If the engine backfires thru the carb, then remove dissy and turn the Rotor (not the whole thing) 180 degrees and reinstall.

It will now start.
 

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Yea!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I found out today the guy that is doing the exhaust system also does wiring. I'm going to turn it over to him.
Thanks again for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
One last post on this topic. I found someone to take over the wiring. Some times you just have to know when to turn it over to a pro.
I think when I connected the wires to the ballast. The full 12 volts was not get to the distributor so that was what could have been causing all the problems with the carborater. Just a guess.
I fried a part or two because know I can't even get the starter to make a noise. The only sound is the key buzzer.
Does anyone have an idea what I could have done.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Last post on this topic. I have decided to turn this one over to a pro.
When I connected the wires back to the ballast I'm thinking that 12 volts was not being sent to the distributor and that was what caused the carbirater problems. The motor was not getting the correct spark so all the fuel was not getting used. Could this be possible?
Also I think that I cooked a part or two because now the starter will not move or even make a sound.
The only noise is the key buzzer. Still have light.
Does anyone know what I could have done?
Sorry for the two posts. I thought that the first one got deleted.
 

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Tell you what. Wiring diagrams, over and over again, are the best way to get things done right. You start with one wire color and go all the way through to all the ends, then start with another one. When done doing that, you go to one component, like the coil, and verify where the wire comes from and where it goes, double check everything, and yes, it may be slow, but it saved me several times over the years, making sure everything is connected and going where it is supposed to.

Now, 12 volts goes to the one side of the ballast resistor and after going through it, reduces it to about 9.6 to the electronic ignition. The choke usually attaches to somewhere like the coil or a wire connected to the coil, but don't feel bad, wiring always gets me, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I have another question if you guys don't mind. Still stuck on this wiring. The blue wire has power when the key is in the position just before start and the brown does not. When the car is running the blue wire has no power, but the brown does. Both these wires were connected to ether side of the ballast. The ballast is no longer needed, so what happens to these wires?
Do they get connected together and a jumper to the positive side of the coil?
I'm thinking of just running a wire from the fuse panel to the coil and just forgetting about all of the other wires.
 

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According to the 72 wiring diagram, both go to the ignition switch. The brown is on the coil side of the ballast and should be hot only in the start position. Blue should be hot in the run position. Something is not adding up. It is like the two wires have been crossed at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I final figured it out. After looking at every forum I could find on this problem. The blue and brown wires needed to be removed from ballaster and connect together with a third wire. The third wire goes to the coil. Once I did that she fired up and is running smooth.
 
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