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New Aussie VC owner - 225 rebuild advice please

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Hello guys, new member and new to Valiants.

Hoping you can help me put together a list of parts and where to get them for a ground up mild performance rebuild on my 67 225 slant 6.

From what I can see , parts, especially new flat top pistons are hard to come by? I'm guessing I need .030 or .040 over size (have not pulled the motor yet). Con rods, new push rods, lifters, camshaft, all bolts, balancer, gasket, rear seal, water pump and oil pump. intake manifold (aussie speed) and exhaust manifolds.

I've seen some rebuild kits online, but unsure and thinking I might be better off piecing it together myself?

Any advice welcome.
Thanks.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've not replaced pistons in any of my engines, so I don't have personal experience with Enginetech. Here's a thread about them:

Anyone know anything about Enginetech Pistons? - Yellow Bullet Forums (at https://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=924138 )

And a video, with some comments below:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2J8bo68JOE


They seem to be good quality and reliable; note that, in both cases, they were used in GM engines.
Thanks, they look they will be a good choice for a mild performance build. ..... shooting for around 9.8 comp.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here is an idea of what you want to purchase and what needs to be checked prior to purchase.
Pistons, as you mentioned, will need to have the block checked to determine whether or not she needs bored, thus oversized pistons. There are three basic levels of pistons, being cast aluminum, hypertuetic(might be spelled wrong), and forged. Cast for stock applications, hyper or forged, a little and much more expensive, but not jaw-dropping expensive, hyper gives a good balance of cost and durability to heat.
Rods, unless broken or bent, can be checked and resized to make sure they are straight and true, which is much cheaper than new ones, if you can actually find them new or aftermarket, new piston end bushings installed if needed (I believe they are).
Gasket set covers all the gaskets needed for the overhaul, and would cover everything except your 4bbl carb itself, it isn't offered for the slant six (ever), which is understandable.
Oil pump, you would want high volume if possible, and if not available, break a new one down and open up the flow passages, it improves flow and volume and isn't a real ton of work, always good practice to clean up the flow on a pump anyway.
Distributor. If you have points (because it hasn't been converted to electronic at this point), plenty of aftermarket companies out there to convert at a reasonable price, Pertronics has been pretty decent about making conversions, so make sure the bushings in the distributor housing are good and the shaft doesn't wobble.
Bearings. That's up to you, but rod and main bearings are relatively inexpensive actually, should get the tri-metal bearings for durability, also go by the name Clevite 77.
Pushrods. Check them, verify they are straight, tips aren't worn out, and no, they don't get ground, they simply get replaced if worn. Now rocker arms are a little bit different story, the end of the valves can indent or over time form a wear pattern. This can be gently sanded/ground out of them to fix that issue, and if not mistaken, the rockers are both adjustable and bronze bushed and can be replaced to improve stability and rocker arm geometry.
The camshaft itself, which is where the power of the 4barrel carb gets to do its work put to the test. It is a solid lift cam, with solid lifters and adjustable rockers, but you don't want to go too radical, which would be difficult to drive on the street. So, from the specs on your stock cam, which can be looked up or profile verified with a dial indicator and degree wheel (all cam grinding companies can verify what you have and what they can do), but basically, and increase in the duration of the camshaft by 12-15 degrees and an increase in lift of .050-.075 inch over stock would wake the engine up without killing its drivability. There are several aftermarket companies that make new cams with this type of profile, they used to call them RV cams (about a step above stock, maybe a hair more). Or you may have access to a cam grinding company that can help out on this one, including refacing the lifters.
Lastly, the head. Given porting is probably out, clean everything up, make sure things like rough castings in the ports are ground with a grinding stone, or my favorite tool is a carbide burr cutter, about the size of your index finger to the first knuckle. It has a rounded end and it good to keep corners from getting too tight. We can talk porting and touching up the combustion chamber later, this is getting pretty long, but will get you headed in the right direction to get things started.
And one other thing, the "rebuild kits" that are cheap, are just that, unless they give brand names, they are designed for quick flip out the door running to an unlucky buyer.
Thanks Dana44, that's awesome info
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sorry , by hypertec I meant hypereutectic. Cheers

I'm going with the Enginetech hypereuticric pistons - middle of the road is all I be for what I'm building.

As far as camshaft goes, I was thinking the popular Comp Cams 264, or Erson cam TQ20M.... should work out pretty good with the 9.5 - 10.1 compression I'll end up with after almost zero decking the block and milling the heads. any thoughts on this cam ? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Looking at the profile for the Erson cam, the TQ20M looks to be a very good profile. What transmission are you using with the engine?
It's the standard 3 spd column auto. but i guess i can change the torque converter to match the cam if I need to? I'm not sure what the stock converter is rated at...
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Stock converters are rated around 1200-1400rpm, and given this is a fairly healthy cam in the lift and even the duration category, you would probably do best with something in the 2000-2500rpm range to loosen it up a bit and be able to idle without dying as soon as you put her into gear.
Thanks mate, I'll make sure I do that too .

I'm starting to strip my engine this weekend and then off to the machine shop to have a good look at the block. I ended up picking up a second slant 6 to build rage than pulling my current motor so I don't have any down time during the build.

Thanks everyone for your help, will keep posts up with progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
And by the way, what is the condition of the transmission itself? Quite often I have found that a good working high mileage automatic transmission tends to last a very short period of time once a good engine is built. If it hadn't been built within say 20,000 miles, it is a whole lot easier to throw new clutches and seals in it to ensure it can handle the extra power you are about to throw at it. At the same time, a shift kit is always a good thing for both the 904 and 727 automatic transmissions, and Mopars are extremely simple in this installment.
Thanks, great advice. I'll make sure I do that. I have done that in the past with the Holdens that I have put a strong V8 into.
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Cheers. And keep the questions coming if needed.
Thanks .

I have one last question. your thoughts on this budget option would be great.

Pull head and mill 60 thou off for increased compression
Valve job and new springs
New / resized pushrods if needed???
Mild cam Adv 263 / [email protected] / 417 lift / 108
Leaving bottom end alone altogether
Good tune.

Engine already has extractors and 4bbl Edelbrock carb on top of a possible adaptor with an unknown possible 2bbl?? intake manifold. I think ignition has been upgraded to electronic, but not 100%.

Thanks a lot
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Thanks for the info, that's great to know. I don't like doing things twice either!

Ok.
40 - 50 thou off heads
Valve job / mild porting
New pushrods
Cam and new lifters
New piston rings and bearings
Change intake and carb set up...

At the moment I'm pretty sure I have a cast iron 2bbl intake with a 4bbl Edelbrock carb attached via some sort of adapter plate....
Should i change the intake to an aluminum 4 bbl to suit the carb I have ?? Or keep the 2bbl cast iron manifold and get myself a new 2 bbl carb? if so, which one?

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Wow, that's heaps of detailed information on the head work..... not sure I have the skills (or balls) to attempt the porting myself having never done it before. At least I now what I need to do.
Thanks for the detailed description.
I'm looking forward to taking the head off and having a look at what I'm dealing with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
You are welcome. Show a picture of the combustion chamber........
Thanks again dana44,
Before I pull the head off , I'm trying to work out if I can do the headwork and just the camshaft and lifters change --- without pulling the engine out of the car? Maybe just the front grill and radiator?
Is it possible / advisable ?
Car is a 67 VC Valiant Regal .

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Well, if you are going to rebuild the engine with new pistons etc, naturally you have to pull the engine out for machining etc.
Best to pull out as one unit with trans attached.
You've never worked on cars before?
Are you young or an oldie reclaiming the youth he never had? ;).

Im in Adelaide, where you at?
Hey mate, I'm in Perth. and nope not an oldie yet . I've always works on holdens but never chrysler, hence all my questions. ...

At this point I'm not planning on a full rebuild, just cam, lifters and headwork . .... that's why I was wondering if if possible to do without pulling the engine. Just weighing up my options .
Cheers
 
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