Thanks .Cheers. And keep the questions coming if needed.
Thanks again dana44,You are welcome. Show a picture of the combustion chamber........
Hey mate, I'm in Perth. and nope not an oldie yet . I've always works on holdens but never chrysler, hence all my questions. ...Well, if you are going to rebuild the engine with new pistons etc, naturally you have to pull the engine out for machining etc.
Best to pull out as one unit with trans attached.
You've never worked on cars before?
Are you young or an oldie reclaiming the youth he never had? .
Im in Adelaide, where you at?
Thanks dana44 for all the time and effort in writing up such a detailed step by step guide. it's guys like you and others on this forum that help teach and pass on the skills and knowledge that can continue to be spread for newbies .Yes, you can do that if saving a couple hundred dollars for parts and the future ability to make the full job a couple years down the road, rarely longer, then yes, you can do your work this way.
You have to drain and pull the radiator and heater hoses (so they are out of the way) and grille first, make room to pull the cam out the front. You then have to pull the accessories (alternator and whatever else there is, power steering?), then the fan blade and pulley, harmonic balancer (need a puller, and don't use a three jaw puller, use the plate and screw it into the balancer threaded holes so as not to damage the outer ring, they like to call them a hub puller or a large steering wheel puller), then the timing cover and timing chain (might want to replace this, double roller will last and have better accuracy and not too expensive), fuel pump (careful of gas leaks, so tie it up high somewhere out of the way), distributor, then valve cover and rocker arm assembly, pull the pushrods, should be a temperature sensor wire on the front of the head, unbolt the intake/exhaust together (it is bolted together under the carburetor, leave that alone, but pull it back and tie it to the left side of the car/hood hinge to give clearance), unbolt the head, and then pull the lifters. At this point the camshaft will come out.
When you get the head off, look at the valve colors. A good sealing intake valve will be very dark, even light black or dark grey, whereas good burning exhaust valves will be tan in color. If all the valves are equal colors intake and exhaust, you are in good shape, variations of the valves looking closer to each other in color indicates leaking valves as in little pits that have developed or even burned edges, which can usually be fixed with a valve job.
Be sure to break the camshaft/lifters in properly, they make break-in oil with ZDDP in it, a zinc additive that helps harden the camshaft to the new lifters, and if not done, the lobes of the camshaft tend to wipe off and eat the motor from metal shavings and make you start all over. Read up on that topic and mechanical camshaft break-in procedures, and keep us informed of your progress and findings, will help where we can.