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Discussion Starter #22
Cheers. And keep the questions coming if needed.
Thanks .

I have one last question. your thoughts on this budget option would be great.

Pull head and mill 60 thou off for increased compression
Valve job and new springs
New / resized pushrods if needed???
Mild cam Adv 263 / [email protected] / 417 lift / 108
Leaving bottom end alone altogether
Good tune.

Engine already has extractors and 4bbl Edelbrock carb on top of a possible adaptor with an unknown possible 2bbl?? intake manifold. I think ignition has been upgraded to electronic, but not 100%.

Thanks a lot
 

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Well, the head work and cam sounds good, .060 off the head may be a little much, even though it is possible, I wouldn't take that much off, .040 would be about the most I would do for safety concerns and cost for new pushrods, but it is your money. The cam seems good, pretty healthy but not overboard.
With old engines, one thing I have seen more times than not, is that a valve job of any sort and the raising of the compression on an engine with many miles tended to blow the rings out of an engine within a couple years. The least expensive and easiest thing I always do to prevent having to yank the engine a year or two later and start over is to simply do rings and bearings when doing head jobs. For some reason the older engines just do this, the newer engines with hardened cylinder walls don't do this well into 150,000 miles on the bottom end and rings, cast iron blocks from the early 80s and back with less than 75,000 miles don't do it, but more miles than that and they do to the tune of 80 percent of the time, so I see it as simple insurance for about $150 or so. I hate doing the same job twice in other words.
The 4bbl to 2bbl adapter is a waste as far as flow goes. Given the hole size of the 4bbl squeezing through the holes of a 2bbl does nothing but run rich when opening, looks cool, but black exhaust out the tailpipe doesn't make you go faster. If the intake is made of aluminum, then you could modify it by welding in a 4bbl plenum, then tune the 4bbl to be the proper fuel/air ratio through jetting. Unless you can do this, stick with a 2bbl carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks for the info, that's great to know. I don't like doing things twice either!

Ok.
40 - 50 thou off heads
Valve job / mild porting
New pushrods
Cam and new lifters
New piston rings and bearings
Change intake and carb set up...

At the moment I'm pretty sure I have a cast iron 2bbl intake with a 4bbl Edelbrock carb attached via some sort of adapter plate....
Should i change the intake to an aluminum 4 bbl to suit the carb I have ?? Or keep the 2bbl cast iron manifold and get myself a new 2 bbl carb? if so, which one?

Thanks again
 

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Well, the carb/intake setup is up to you, if you have or can get a 4bbl aluminum intake, the 500cfm carb shown is a nice carb, easy to tune and performs well. The setup picture you show is at least double the size that is capable to flow through the intake so it is a waste, so no performance or economy can be had with this setup. With that, if you have the 4bbl intake it will improve, or, if the intake is aluminum for slant six, aluminum is a lot easier to adapt (cut and TIG) a 4bbl plenum into the aluminum intake and allow her to breathe properly, the runners are large enough to handle 500cfm in this manner.
The porting, that is one place I know lots of power can be made. I always use carbide burr cutters instead of sandpaper rolls and stone cuttters, I like to use one shaped like the end of my little finger with a rounded end and straight sides, which gives a good rounding shape and doesn't gouge the surface. Matching the intake and exhaust gaskets to the gaskets, open the bowls to the inside of the valve seats, open the space between the port sides and valve guide bosses, and then get into the combustion chamber itself. Scribe the head gasket cylinder rings on the head surface. Where possible, open the valve pocket to the edge of this scribed ring, whether that is rounding the sharp edge to meet it or flat to it. The quench areas of the head (left and right of the valve pocket flat surface areas), round those edges, too. Really round them and open them up. You want the edges around the valves themselves (intake and exhaust) to be angled so that at no point the valve lift distance is constant or equal from the previous .050 lift, meaning the valve pocket is always opening to the lift of the valve (prevents stalling of the flow, both into the cylinder and out for the exhaust). You don't want any sharp edges inside the combustion chamber because they produce hot spots and make the flow and flame front angle off and not burn as quickly. Leave the carbide burr texture alone, do not polish it. The little chip cuts they make the fuel/air and flame from sticking to the surface over a very short period of time. I have several examples I have done in the past that when removed years later look like they were put on and run and torn down the same day and they are totally clean, both ports and combustion chambers, meaning they are burning cleaner than stock or polished surfaces, and they don't load up the way ported and polished heads do. Both torque and hp numbers are better on the bottom (and top) rpm range, so really good for the street applications.
 
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Discussion Starter #28
Wow, that's heaps of detailed information on the head work..... not sure I have the skills (or balls) to attempt the porting myself having never done it before. At least I now what I need to do.
Thanks for the detailed description.
I'm looking forward to taking the head off and having a look at what I'm dealing with.
 

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You are welcome. Show a picture of the combustion chamber and I can walk you though it, done it many a time, all the magic is in the combustion chamber design and improvement over stock. It's not that difficult, especially with cast iron heads, just go slow with the carbide burr cutter and an air powered die grinder, that's all.
 
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Discussion Starter #30
You are welcome. Show a picture of the combustion chamber........
Thanks again dana44,
Before I pull the head off , I'm trying to work out if I can do the headwork and just the camshaft and lifters change --- without pulling the engine out of the car? Maybe just the front grill and radiator?
Is it possible / advisable ?
Car is a 67 VC Valiant Regal .

Cheers
 

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Well, if you are going to rebuild the engine with new pistons etc, naturally you have to pull the engine out for machining etc.
Best to pull out as one unit with trans attached.
You've never worked on cars before?
Are you young or an oldie reclaiming the youth he never had? ;).
Have a look at moparmarket.com.au, its still running and has lots of threads in the forum section, even a VC and slant ones.
Might even be people that still use it, that own slants.
You have come into the tail end of the whole scene, most guys have been there done that, sort of thing.
But if you love the VC, then there are still 100s of people around that have done them up.
Do your networking, hang around the classic chrome bumper cruises, Chrysler car shows, and even coffee and cars gatherings and you should meet a few Chrysler guys.
Ive been in them since the old man bought an R series in 1962....bought my first VG Pacer in 79.
Im in Adelaide, where you at?
 

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Yes, you can do that if saving a couple hundred dollars for parts and the future ability to make the full job a couple years down the road, rarely longer, then yes, you can do your work this way.
You have to drain and pull the radiator and heater hoses (so they are out of the way) and grille first, make room to pull the cam out the front. You then have to pull the accessories (alternator and whatever else there is, power steering?), then the fan blade and pulley, harmonic balancer (need a puller, and don't use a three jaw puller, use the plate and screw it into the balancer threaded holes so as not to damage the outer ring, they like to call them a hub puller or a large steering wheel puller), then the timing cover and timing chain (might want to replace this, double roller will last and have better accuracy and not too expensive), fuel pump (careful of gas leaks, so tie it up high somewhere out of the way), distributor, then valve cover and rocker arm assembly, pull the pushrods, should be a temperature sensor wire on the front of the head, unbolt the intake/exhaust together (it is bolted together under the carburetor, leave that alone, but pull it back and tie it to the left side of the car/hood hinge to give clearance), unbolt the head, and then pull the lifters. At this point the camshaft will come out.
When you get the head off, look at the valve colors. A good sealing intake valve will be very dark, even light black or dark grey, whereas good burning exhaust valves will be tan in color. If all the valves are equal colors intake and exhaust, you are in good shape, variations of the valves looking closer to each other in color indicates leaking valves as in little pits that have developed or even burned edges, which can usually be fixed with a valve job.
Be sure to break the camshaft/lifters in properly, they make break-in oil with ZDDP in it, a zinc additive that helps harden the camshaft to the new lifters, and if not done, the lobes of the camshaft tend to wipe off and eat the motor from metal shavings and make you start all over. Read up on that topic and mechanical camshaft break-in procedures, and keep us informed of your progress and findings, will help where we can.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Well, if you are going to rebuild the engine with new pistons etc, naturally you have to pull the engine out for machining etc.
Best to pull out as one unit with trans attached.
You've never worked on cars before?
Are you young or an oldie reclaiming the youth he never had? ;).

Im in Adelaide, where you at?
Hey mate, I'm in Perth. and nope not an oldie yet . I've always works on holdens but never chrysler, hence all my questions. ...

At this point I'm not planning on a full rebuild, just cam, lifters and headwork . .... that's why I was wondering if if possible to do without pulling the engine. Just weighing up my options .
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Yes, you can do that if saving a couple hundred dollars for parts and the future ability to make the full job a couple years down the road, rarely longer, then yes, you can do your work this way.
You have to drain and pull the radiator and heater hoses (so they are out of the way) and grille first, make room to pull the cam out the front. You then have to pull the accessories (alternator and whatever else there is, power steering?), then the fan blade and pulley, harmonic balancer (need a puller, and don't use a three jaw puller, use the plate and screw it into the balancer threaded holes so as not to damage the outer ring, they like to call them a hub puller or a large steering wheel puller), then the timing cover and timing chain (might want to replace this, double roller will last and have better accuracy and not too expensive), fuel pump (careful of gas leaks, so tie it up high somewhere out of the way), distributor, then valve cover and rocker arm assembly, pull the pushrods, should be a temperature sensor wire on the front of the head, unbolt the intake/exhaust together (it is bolted together under the carburetor, leave that alone, but pull it back and tie it to the left side of the car/hood hinge to give clearance), unbolt the head, and then pull the lifters. At this point the camshaft will come out.
When you get the head off, look at the valve colors. A good sealing intake valve will be very dark, even light black or dark grey, whereas good burning exhaust valves will be tan in color. If all the valves are equal colors intake and exhaust, you are in good shape, variations of the valves looking closer to each other in color indicates leaking valves as in little pits that have developed or even burned edges, which can usually be fixed with a valve job.
Be sure to break the camshaft/lifters in properly, they make break-in oil with ZDDP in it, a zinc additive that helps harden the camshaft to the new lifters, and if not done, the lobes of the camshaft tend to wipe off and eat the motor from metal shavings and make you start all over. Read up on that topic and mechanical camshaft break-in procedures, and keep us informed of your progress and findings, will help where we can.
Thanks dana44 for all the time and effort in writing up such a detailed step by step guide. it's guys like you and others on this forum that help teach and pass on the skills and knowledge that can continue to be spread for newbies .

Once i get the head off, I'll post up some pics.
Cheers
 

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We always like pictures, and you are welcome.
 
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