[MChat]

That's a great idea! I'll give that a try. I caught the original pack-rat with a regular rat-trap, but there's another one that's been lurking around.

 

[dana44]

They like it and this "green" process is eaten by all the rodent family, and chickens love the dead ones, and they don't eat the stomach contents because it is hard (duh). Cheaper, too, and doesn't hurt other animals that lick it.

 

[421 SD Poncho]

If I find that I'm having spark-blow-out under high boost, then I'll look at ignition upgrades. For the SRT-4 I used MSD wires and an MSD coil.

You should be ok. I doubt that you'll have blowout at .28.

Something to keep in mind with that gap on a iridium plug. The manufacturers used iridium because it is hard. That translates to a long lived spark plug. The iridium plug has a VERY small electrode tip and that combined with the VERY HIGH RESISTANCE of the iridium itself, you're going to end up with a reliable, but very small spark kernel.

The makers of this chart made the comment that they left the iridium off of the chart because of its extremely high resistance. They postulated that the iridium should have been left in the ground.

Electricity travels around the outside of a wire. so a normal size electrode in an iridium plug would encounter very high resistance trying to get to the tip of the electrode.

The only way for the plug manufacturers to allow the iridium plugs to fire was to make the tips very small. That makes the outter shell area of the plugs center electrode smaller, so the current encounters less resistance on the way to the electrode tip.

So, as I said, the result is a reliable but smaller flame at the tip of the lug.

Silver is obviously the best metal to use to make spark plugs.

Jerry

 

[421 SD Poncho]

Have you felt the need for 3.0 bar MAP and TIP sensors or a fuel return line yet?


Jerry

 

[MChat]

Have you felt the need for 3.0 bar MAP and TIP sensors or a fuel return line yet?


Jerry

No on the return line (925cc injectors). Yes on the 3bar MAP & TIP.

I ran the iridiums in the SRT4 until I had issues running higher boost on race gas.

If they don't work for me in the PT I'll chase down the same plugs in a non-iridium version. Hopefully they're still being manufactured (or a similar one is). IIRC it was a PITA to find 2 step colder plugs in a non iridium. I had to go to a specialty "import" parts store back in 2005.

 

[MChat]

Looks like I'll be picking up a MYCKEE Stage I ECU anyway...

I got the piggy-back wired in and now the SKIM isn't working. Started up, then died after a second or two; did that a few times (I didn't count) and now it won't even crank.

Hopefully MYCKEE responds shortly; I am trying to get this car running as I am in the process of moving to a new house. Trying to load a lowered PT that isn't running onto a flatbed trailer is not something I want to do this week...

I already pulled the SKIM out of the car, so when the new ECU shows up the SKIS won't activate.

 

[421 SD Poncho]

I know you'll like MCKEE's STAGE 1. He does good work. Nothing but positive feed back so far.

Here's a rundown of the STAGE 1 and the sadly never released STAGE 2.

Hope things work out well and quickly for you.


Jerry

 

[421 SD Poncho]

By the way, 2step, the guy that bought the AGP test mule's name was Brian Bemos. That may ring a bell with them.


Jerry

 

[MChat]

Got the PCM from MYCKEE today (thanks for the quick turn around!) and it started right up.

Interesting thing, I was getting the "no bus" message in the odometer window and figured it was related to the SKIM failing. I was still getting the "no bus" message with the new PCM and the DiabloSport still gave me the "incompatible" message (it took a loooong time, so I suspect it was timing out). As a matter of ruling out easy things, I pulled the radio out that I had just wired in before having the SKIM issues and put the stock radio back in: no more "no bus" message and the Diablo Sport connected and I was able to make a backup of the tune!

I don't know which one it was, but apparently if you wire in the brown (which the wiring adapter kit I got said it was for a "mute") and/or the blue w/ white stripe (amplifier turn on) it will cause issues with the bus! What made me suspect it is that the radio kept enabling and disabling an "attenuate mode" while the DiabloSport was trying to connect. After disconnecting both (since I don't think these cars have a factory amp to "turn on") and reinstalling the new radio, the "no bus" message stayed gone.

So lesson learned... if someone else gets the "no bus" message, the first thing I might ask is did you install (or have installed) a new radio before this happened?

I also wonder, now, if that is what caused the SKIM to fail in the first place as well, as the radio was probably sending out a signal that effectively was "jamming" the bus with noise.

 

[421 SD Poncho]

Congrats!

You are obviously very adept at kicking obstacles that come your way to the side of the road.

Please keep us in the loop.


Jerry

 

[421 SD Poncho]

Glad you got it running!

Are you running a 180-degree thermostat?

What gauges are you running in addition to the pillar pod mounted BOOST gauge that you showed the pic of? Maybe an AFR, or an info gauge like the AEROFORCE scan gauge?

 

[MChat]

Stock thermostat.

The 3 gauges I have are an electronic Autometer Boost (vac - 30psi w/ peak and warn), an AEM Uego Wideband AFR and the Snow Performance controller.

I also have a GFB Boost controller that is a square box (yet to be mounted)

 

[421 SD Poncho]

Thed G FORCE II is a very good, useful piece.

What wastegate is working with your particular AGP turbo?

Jerry

 

[421 SD Poncho]

Have you looked into using SNOWS "NITRO BOOST" as an additive to whatever you're spraying?


Jerry

 

[MChat]

It's a Precision Turbo waste Gate.

I have seen the nitro boost juice, I've never tried it, however. As it is I know I am getting close to the limits of the stock engine.

I may, sometime in the future build the engine and if I do, I'll do some transmission upgrades as well, add a new fuel system with a RRFPR and a larger turbo. See how close to 500whp I can get on premium gas. (500 is "easy" on race gas).

Next, however, is body work and paint. Hopefully I can get my hands on a PTeazer front fascia/grill.

 

[421 SD Poncho]

Gotcha,

It adds around 20 h/p but as you said, it's another 20 that you really don't need on your stock block with the mods you've already got.

Ray, from PTeazer can only be reached on FACEBOOK at this point.

Of course, you may be able to find one used but the odds are that you'll find that it will have been damaged during removal. I know of several times that this happened to my local owners.

Chrysler PT Cruiser & PTeazer Creations Everything Mild To Radical & More | Facebook

I Everybody wants one.

Rays shop did this entire build.

Jerry

 

[MChat]

I got in touch with Ray at PTeazer and have the front clip and rear bumper ordered. After talking with him, the side skirts he has won't work with my rolled and flared fenders (to accommodate the 255t45R17's), but I found another set and have those on the way as well.

Meanwhile, I replaced the headlights and bought a new set of tails, which I am currently in the process of "smoking".

Three coats of VHT "Nightshades". Fully taped, partially taped and no tape. A light sanding tomorrow followed by a few coats of clear.

 

[421 SD Poncho]

I can't wait to see it with Ray's "STUFF".

Glad for you and glad to see that Ray is still sticking with our PT CRUISERS.


Jerry

 

[MChat]

Been awhile since I had something worth updating on this project. I've been driving it around the new place, but since the town is less than 10 miles from beginning to end, and since almost everywhere I go to is less than 2 miles away, I haven't really got on the throttle hard at all. I did take it for a drive over to a nearby town, which is about 30 miles away, and I did play with the boost controller. It is now set to run 19psi normally, and 24psi on "scramble" (which can be enabled via a button). It scoots pretty good on 19 and flat hauls on 24.

And now, I just finished wrapping up putting the (unpainted) new front fascia on:

 

[Sooner PT]

Need to take it to the track!