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I'm able to upload pics from my PC, but always have had to shrink them below 150KB or so. That's always been the case for me.
Got em down to bout 40k each and still getting "there was an error uploading your file" - and its instant. The server doesnt even try - just blocks me.I'm able to upload pics from my PC, but always have had to shrink them below 150KB or so. That's always been the case for me.
With door open it is bright. Door closed it is dim. Switch should be working. All switch does is ground the circuit to complete the circuit. Either incomplete ground or a circuit is backfeeding the bulb. Much like a dim headlight when ground is bad.If they stay on with the door closed it is the switch on the door sill itself not pushing the button enough to disengage it. The button is on the lower half of the A pillar in front, not sure where they are on the back doors, probably the B pillar about middle height of the door itself. The switch could be worn, bent, or simply not being pushed hard enough by the door.
Well, its not the actual ignition switch - replaced. same symptoms. I'm stumped.Hey guys. The Valiant has decided not to start. Its the weirdest thing - while cranking, there is no fire to the plugs, but when i turn the key back through the "run" position to "off", there is a bump to the coil and the engine fires for just a moment. If I jumper the starter relay (on the fender next to battery) and work the key back and forth several times through "on" and "off" i can eventually get the car to start and run. Well that worked yesterday, anyway. Now that trick doesn't even work. The car has done this on and off since i've had it but now its really bad, so i bought an ignition switch. I'm going to check the starter wiring first, but if I end up doing the switch, does anyone have a vid or post about replacing it? I'm talking the actual electrical ignition switch and accompanying pigtial - not the ignition lock tumbler - no problem there and ive already watched those vids.
Thanks in advance folks!
It appears that you have a poor connection between the switch and coil. That may be a wire issue or ballast resistor issue. Jumping the starter or for a moment after release of starter position the resistor bypass may still be activated giving you a slight moment of power. Something like a real test light that draws some real power is more effective than a low draw tester finding a poor connection in this case.Well, its not the actual ignition switch - replaced. same symptoms. I'm stumped.
Thanks! The resistor is actually bypassed right now and I'm running a 920cca battery. I've got a serious current bottleneck somewhere. I guess it could be at the bulkhead but I've cleaned all that in the engine bay- haven't rehabbed the cabin-side connections yet. Could be there I reckon. Just weird that it doesn't get enough power to the coil during cranking to fire...It appears that you have a poor connection between the switch and coil. That may be a wire issue or ballast resistor issue. Jumping the starter or for a moment after release of starter position the resistor bypass may still be activated giving you a slight moment of power. Something like a real test light that draws some real power is more effective than a low draw tester finding a poor connection in this case.
I guess it could be getting weak - bypassed ballast a while back to start dealing with this issue. Its a 6v coil anyway so it should take the abuse. It is possible, though. I'll put the ballast back in the circuit and swap the coil this weekend and see if it improves, but i feel like i've already been there...If you've bypassed the ballast you may have fried the coil.