[Bob Lincoln]

I'm able to upload pics from my PC, but always have had to shrink them below 150KB or so. That's always been the case for me.

 

[Nebraskaorville]

I'm able to upload pics from my PC, but always have had to shrink them below 150KB or so. That's always been the case for me.

Got em down to bout 40k each and still getting "there was an error uploading your file" - and its instant. The server doesnt even try - just blocks me.

 

[Scrounge]

You might instead consider linking to a short video.

 

[Nebraskaorville]

from admin: "Pic uploads are broken in some forums now due to a forum-software error that we expect to fix."

 

[Dave Z]

Yup, it seems to be an issue with Xenforo rather than anything else.

 

[Fast Eddie]

I haven't been able to upload pictures either................

 

[Nebraskaorville]

 

[Dave Z]

Comes and goes.

 

[Nebraskaorville]

Hey guys- chasing a weird electrical gremlin. Dome light stays on. Rheostat in headlight switch seems fine, just pulled both door switches and cleaned contacts, pulled connectors off bulkhead in engine compartment, cleaned, etc- no fix. Door buzzer works properly. Light is super bright with doors open, dims with doors closed but never goes out- also no change when headlight knob turned far left to "interior lights on" position. Head scratcher. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.

 

[68RT]

Your issue describes a poor ground. Possible backfeed through light.

 

[dana44]

If they stay on with the door closed it is the switch on the door sill itself not pushing the button enough to disengage it. The button is on the lower half of the A pillar in front, not sure where they are on the back doors, probably the B pillar about middle height of the door itself. The switch could be worn, bent, or simply not being pushed hard enough by the door.

 

[68RT]

If they stay on with the door closed it is the switch on the door sill itself not pushing the button enough to disengage it. The button is on the lower half of the A pillar in front, not sure where they are on the back doors, probably the B pillar about middle height of the door itself. The switch could be worn, bent, or simply not being pushed hard enough by the door.

With door open it is bright. Door closed it is dim. Switch should be working. All switch does is ground the circuit to complete the circuit. Either incomplete ground or a circuit is backfeeding the bulb. Much like a dim headlight when ground is bad.

 

[dana44]

The only other possibility is power is being fed to the light circuit with melted wires somewhere else, if pushing the light switch on the door doesn't shut the lights out. I had this happen to me on my Charger when the tail light wire touched ground and shorted the wiring under the dashboard years ago.

 

[Nebraskaorville]

Hey guys. The Valiant has decided not to start. Its the weirdest thing - while cranking, there is no fire to the plugs, but when i turn the key back through the "run" position to "off", there is a bump to the coil and the engine fires for just a moment. If I jumper the starter relay (on the fender next to battery) and work the key back and forth several times through "on" and "off" i can eventually get the car to start and run. Well that worked yesterday, anyway. Now that trick doesn't even work. The car has done this on and off since i've had it but now its really bad, so i bought an ignition switch. I'm going to check the starter wiring first, but if I end up doing the switch, does anyone have a vid or post about replacing it? I'm talking the actual electrical ignition switch and accompanying pigtial - not the ignition lock tumbler - no problem there and ive already watched those vids.

Thanks in advance folks!

 

[Nebraskaorville]

Hey guys. The Valiant has decided not to start. Its the weirdest thing - while cranking, there is no fire to the plugs, but when i turn the key back through the "run" position to "off", there is a bump to the coil and the engine fires for just a moment. If I jumper the starter relay (on the fender next to battery) and work the key back and forth several times through "on" and "off" i can eventually get the car to start and run. Well that worked yesterday, anyway. Now that trick doesn't even work. The car has done this on and off since i've had it but now its really bad, so i bought an ignition switch. I'm going to check the starter wiring first, but if I end up doing the switch, does anyone have a vid or post about replacing it? I'm talking the actual electrical ignition switch and accompanying pigtial - not the ignition lock tumbler - no problem there and ive already watched those vids.

Thanks in advance folks!

Well, its not the actual ignition switch - replaced. same symptoms. I'm stumped.

 

[68RT]

Well, its not the actual ignition switch - replaced. same symptoms. I'm stumped.

It appears that you have a poor connection between the switch and coil. That may be a wire issue or ballast resistor issue. Jumping the starter or for a moment after release of starter position the resistor bypass may still be activated giving you a slight moment of power. Something like a real test light that draws some real power is more effective than a low draw tester finding a poor connection in this case.

 

[LouJC]

Looks very clean no rust you can see. Good candidate for restoration. I remember when these cars were new. High School days. Simple, well engineered, better than similar offerings from Ford and GM. Only complaints were vague power steering and front drum brakes (unless the discs were ordered).

 

[Nebraskaorville]

It appears that you have a poor connection between the switch and coil. That may be a wire issue or ballast resistor issue. Jumping the starter or for a moment after release of starter position the resistor bypass may still be activated giving you a slight moment of power. Something like a real test light that draws some real power is more effective than a low draw tester finding a poor connection in this case.

Thanks! The resistor is actually bypassed right now and I'm running a 920cca battery. I've got a serious current bottleneck somewhere. I guess it could be at the bulkhead but I've cleaned all that in the engine bay- haven't rehabbed the cabin-side connections yet. Could be there I reckon. Just weird that it doesn't get enough power to the coil during cranking to fire...

 

[valiant67]

If you've bypassed the ballast you may have fried the coil.

 

[Nebraskaorville]

If you've bypassed the ballast you may have fried the coil.

I guess it could be getting weak - bypassed ballast a while back to start dealing with this issue. Its a 6v coil anyway so it should take the abuse. It is possible, though. I'll put the ballast back in the circuit and swap the coil this weekend and see if it improves, but i feel like i've already been there...