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Discussion Starter #1
Alright guys time to pick some brains, 1993 Daytona 2.5 TBI. It was running nice and smooth, then nothing?No spark but have fuel. I got a code of what I thought was CPS sensor told it was actually the pickup on the distributor.So I put a 2nd new HEP. Still nothing, I tried to read the codes like my friends showed me and got 5 blinks, 5blinks, 12, 11, 5,5....Really would love to get the car going again! So I can worry about the little stuff...Hope to hear from the gurus soon,
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update! Just had a brain fart to go see if the distributor is turning? Nope! :(....... Guess I found the problem. Now how is it driven? Oil pump?
 

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You almost certainly have a broken timing belt. The timing belt turns the crankshaft, camshaft and the intermediate shaft - which turns the distributor and the oil pump. For an experienced person, it's an easy replacement. For the novice, it's not too hard if you are patient and have about 5-6 hours to spare. A new belt is about $25-$40, depending on brand. Recommended brands are Gates and Cloyes. A shop will add $150 to $200 labor to this. Here's a tutorial:

http://www.allpar.com/fix/timing-belt-22.html

I did this job last year for the first time, and it was easier than I thought. Just make sure that the distributor points to #1 spark plug wire so that you're not 180 degrees out of time.
 

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Thank You !!! Went out and took off the top cover and sure enough!! I''ll have to take my time and get it done!
 

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Several of us can give you advice if you run into snags. Take your time removing the drive belts and accessories. Make SURE you disconnect the battery first, so you don't accidentally tap the output terminal of the alternator against anything. You can swing the A/C compressor aside without discharging it. Support the engine with a jack before unbolting the engine mount to slide the belt off/new one on.

The power steering pump has two bolts to loosen, one is the pivot, which you get at from underneath (need access to the back side of the pump) and the other bolt can be accessed THROUGH the slots in the pulley, once you turn the pulley to line up the slots with the bolt head, and put the socket through the slots to reach the bolt.

Good idea to replace the water pump at the same time proactively, since almost all of the same things have to come off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well update! Got everything done(timing belt kit), suprisedly much easier than I thought. Took me 3 hours! But now the rear main I thought was fixed seems to be leaking. Any pointers to look out for that I may have missed the first time? Also what is the plastic sleeve inside the new seal for? Want to make sure its just to protect the seal and not need for something!
 
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