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No Screen on 1998 Dodge Durango's RAZ Radio

1512 Views 23 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Trackpad_User
I checked the fuses, and bench tested the radio - there's something wrong with the radio itself, and I don't know where to start to fix it. I can't seem to find any service manuals or anything like that, so I'm coming here in case anyone with any particular experience can help me fix this! Thank you!

I've put three radios in, 1 aftermarket that worked when removed, and broke when replaced, and 2 'factory' (one that once worked in the car, and a junkyard one. No screens on any of them

The part number of the radio is P04070438AE H. This is the unit. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!!!
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Many of these radios have an anti-theft feature, where you must have a PIN in order to transfer another radio in place of the OEM. Without the PIN, it won't work.
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How do I figure out/input this PIN?

I don't get any message to come up at all - it doesn't light up. The one I put in from the junkyard had orange lines lit up across it before they eventually died out... one at a time haha

The second one was the OEM one - I got it from the prior owner - that one didn't light up at all. How would I input the PIN?
One of the Chrysler employees on here could probably detail the procedure, as I've never encountered it myself. I would think the radio would prompt for it. But what you just posted now suggests a different issue; maybe damage to the harness or a bus problem (since the radio operation is controlled by the CANBUS).
There is no CANBUS on a 1998!

The radio I retrofitted into my 1995 Dodge Intrepid is an identical looking CD-cassette-AM/FM unit. It did not light up when I got it, either. Its panel illumination is by light bulbs, the little bayonet-mount type. Every single one was burned out which was probably why I was able to get it for next to nothing. I soldered in grain-of-wheat bulbs, using the contacts on the board for solder pads. The bulbs I had were 14 volt so they are not quite as bright as the originals but they are unlikely to ever burn out.

But on yours, if the panel with labels and callouts is lighting up but the greenish display is not, it is likely that the display has failed. They depend on pressure contact between a circuit board and the many contacts to the segments of the display, dozens of them. In most home consumer equipment the displays were assembled and supplied by a vendor to the equipment manufacturer. On rare occasions they were clamped to the main front panel circuit board by a soldered-on metal frame. Either way they were virtually impossible to repair and in the latter case, often in the first, only available by replacement at the board level. But I don't know how parts for this particular radio were supplied by the OEM (Mitsubishi?)
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Find OklahomaWolf...
The part # did nothing for me in a Google search. For an RAZ, I came up with P04704383AH for a Mopar part #.
It would say 'Anti-Theft' on the faceplate if it had it and the display would at least light up with dashes.
The radio is on the CCD bus, but doesn't rely on it for power up.
Do the dash illumination lights work? Do they dim with the control? I have had fully dim dash lamps keep the radio display dark.
If you don't see the faint orange filaments of the VFD tube lit, it may be a failed tube or power supply? The VFD uses about 22 volts to light the screen characters.
I believe that the driver IC for the display is under the tube. Check solder joints.
There is an article on the RAZ, but a 2002 probably has some differences than a 1998:
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I don’t think these radios had anti-theft yet in the US.
The displays on these radios could fail. Used to easier to just find another in the junkyard. But if the display fails, the illumination backlights should still work (and vice-versa). I suppose a failure in the dimmer circuitry (headlight switch) could render all lights off.
There are three power requirements for the radio.
1) constant power, pin 1
2) switched power, pin 2
3) illumination, pin 3
4) there should also be a headlight in sense, pin 4
These are all in the gray connector.
I tested it on the bench with power to 1-4 and mute, as instructed on the top label of the radio.

The radios turned on - so far as I could tell, anyway, but they did not light up on the screen. Is it possible that my car is frying the radio screens somehow? The headlight backlight worked as intended.

I didn't see any orange filament lights. I used to on the junkyard one, but they died out after a while.
Unless it is grossly overcharging, I think that you are just getting failed radios. D106 should hold the filament voltage to 2.38v. Note: This 1995 model may not be exactly like your radio.
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. . . .I checked the fuses, and bench tested the radio - there's something wrong with the radio itself, and I don't know where to start to fix it. . . . .

. . . .I've put three radios in, 1 aftermarket that worked when removed, and broke when replaced, and 2 'factory' (one that once worked in the car, and a junkyard one. No screens on any of them . . . .
The flat faced electronically tuned radios all had the same electrical connectors and pinouts from years 1984 through 2000. There is a gray connector and black connector. Each had 7 pins.

Wiring diagrams show no connection to a PCI bus. I believe that came in mdoel year 2001 (curved face radio) and communicated with the IPM / intelligent power module which was an add on to the PDC / power distribution center in year 2001. IPM was not installed in years prior to 2001.

The radio requires proper grouonds to function as ground is NOT provided through the 2 electrical connectors. When mounted in the dash originally there was a braided ground strap between the chassis and the instrument panel. Is the antenna jack firmly seated in its receptacle?

Since it is a used radio it would have station presets set internally. Those radios did not lose station presets when power was removed. With all electrical connections and ground made and a suitable anttenna connected, power up the radio and press the scan button. The radio should march through ascending frequencies and find a station that plays. Try both AM and FM. Maybe the radio is good but the display has a bad connection and is not powering up so you can see the frequency and time?

Attached is a wiring diagram that show electrical connector pinouts and connection for an amplifier. Separate image shows the attachment of the braided ground strap in the dash. Ignition key switched power travels through fuse #8 in the junction block to pin #6. Unswitched power on pin #7 is provided by the BCM / body control module. Through model year 2000 the factory service manual makes no mention of an anti-theft feature in the radio.

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My apologies, I didn't look closely at his original picture, and I associated the 3-digit model code with the newer radios.
I believe the only PCI bus connector on these radios is for the optional steering wheel audio controls. It is a separate two wire connection and has no effect on the radio operation (other than if those external switches , if present on the steering wheel, will function to change volume or stations.
FWIW I have one or two of these laying around from when I had a 1998 Grand Cherokee if you would want one for cheap. Same radio if not the higher end model, Infinity.
AllanC gave you the best/most accurate info. I think your radio is broken. Over the last decade I've bought a bunch of these from local yards. About 1 in 5 functions well in every way, with a working CD player. Approx 1 in 10 has the burned out lighting, both display and back lighting. Approx 2 in 10 has a staticy/intermittent volume control. The vast majority everything works except the CD player. I'd like to find replacement motors that spin the CD but I've had no luck. When opened up the separate components, tape deck. CD player, etc that can be swapped out. If you could identify the lighting module you could likely replace it. There was a vendor on Ebay that sold what they called "refurbished" units but no idea if they are still around.
@AllanC laid out the best way to check it. I’d lean towards the ground being the issue as I experienced something similar 20 years ago and it was all in the ground… that style Infinity radio was pretty solid for me and was used in my 84 Diplomat, 92 Shadow and 97 Concorde before it finally stayed in the Concorde when I sold it.
"The radio should march through ascending frequencies and find a station that plays. Try both AM and FM. Maybe the radio is good but the display has a bad connection and is not powering up so you can see the frequency and time?"

This is the exact problem - I can use the radios fine.

I had it ground to the body of the car, and then I grounded it from the back plate of the radio. Is there another ground pin to worry about? I was only ever grounding the amplifier on the bench - never anything else. Ditto with the car, it didn't have a braided ground attachment, and there isn't one in the truck - 1998 Dodge Durango w/ 6 speakers.
My 84 Daytona has a braided ground strap AND a quick-connect faston to a ground wire.
My 92 Dakota, I believe, has no braided ground strap, but I believe it may have the quick-connect faston to a ground wire.
If the radio mechanically mounts through those diagonal plastic tabs with two screws, there is no ground connection there, so it must have the braided ground strap, or a separate ground wire to the radio chassis, or both.
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I hooked it up like shown in the picture, nothing. I'm not sure if I'm missing a ground somewhere - I'm thinking that maybe I have a bad ground in the car that I'm not testing on the bench that's causing my headaches.

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The case is all that needs grounded. Either a ground strap with an eyelet is bolted to the radio, a ground wire clips to the radio, or a ground clips to an eyelet that bolts onto the radio.
In your case, either of the prongs pointing toward your red clip in the picture above can connect to ground (as you're already using one for ground) or you can have a ground connected to the bolt beside the black clip. Either way is fine for the ground.
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