· Super Moderator
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Welcome to Allpar. The distributor is turning while cranking, correct?
yes,the reluctor gap is .008 checked with a brass feeler gauge.and i am,,,, or was running a 5 pin module .and yes i have a factory service manual .ballast resistor checks out.see all that checks out.but the stumper is even tho all components ,tested individually ,test good .but when i re install everything...no spark from the coil wire ( yes tryed three other coil wires too even checked them with a ohm meter)Bob Lincoln said:There is a 4-wire and a 5-wire ignition module, and a Lean Burn system from late 1970s, so we need to know what you've got in there.
Ballast resistors are notorious for being bad right out of the box. Check the resistance across both resistors (electronic ignition had a dual resistor).
If you have a distributor that's of the vintage from early electronic (1972-1980s), it will have a reluctor with 8 teeth around the dist shaft. Those teeth line up with the pickup coil to fire the ignition coil. That gap between the reluctor teeth and pickup is CRITICAL. It must be set with a non-magnetic feeler gauge, and you should NOT rely on it being correct right out of the box. The gap should be .008 inches, if I recall correctly. Too big a gap means weak or no spark, too small a gap and a tooth will hit and chip off the pickup coil, which makes the ignition die.
i replaced the ign switch and in doing this i checked the wiring and its ok.also when the switch is "on" there is power to all the places it should be. i even ran a wire from the bat. to the coil with no luckdana44 said:And the wire was checked all the way to the ignition switch? Of all the weird places for it to go bad, have seen many an ignition switch wiring get hot on the back of the switch. If no power on the positive side of the coil, switch is where the electricity actually comes from.