1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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17,323 Posts
Let's start with a diagnosis. In order to determine what is failing, we need to make it fail for us and catch it in the act. If the weather won't produce the conditions that we need for the failure, we can try to mimic the conditions.
I did think about water turning into ice in the fuel system and preventing a start, but if there was that much water in the fuel you would likely have poor driveability in all temperature conditions. Yet you say it runs flawlessly once warmed.
Can you hear the fuel pump 'hum' in the back for a second after you roll the key on when it is cold? There is no fuel rail test port on the 3.0L for a quick fuel pressure test. It would have to be 'tee-d' into the high pressure hose into the fuel rail with a tool similar to this:
2008-11-01_133114_fuel_pressure_test_without_test_port_requires_inline_adapter.jpg
If it starts or fires after a shot of carb/throttle body cleaner spray into the throttle body air intake, then there may be a fuel supply problem.
Does the 'check engine' light come on when you roll the key to the ignition position and are there any fault codes? Does it still light below freezing?
http://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html
I almost think that it could be the PCM failing cold. It is rare, but it does happen. A PCM can be removed and placed in a home freezer for an hour or so and then put back in the car for a test start. You could do this test twice to better verify that this is or isn't the problem.
Other electrical components can fail cold. Some can set fault codes and some can't. A can of freeze spray from Radio Shack (or other store) can cool small things like sensors and ignition coil, etc. for test starts.
I did think about water turning into ice in the fuel system and preventing a start, but if there was that much water in the fuel you would likely have poor driveability in all temperature conditions. Yet you say it runs flawlessly once warmed.
Can you hear the fuel pump 'hum' in the back for a second after you roll the key on when it is cold? There is no fuel rail test port on the 3.0L for a quick fuel pressure test. It would have to be 'tee-d' into the high pressure hose into the fuel rail with a tool similar to this:
2008-11-01_133114_fuel_pressure_test_without_test_port_requires_inline_adapter.jpg
If it starts or fires after a shot of carb/throttle body cleaner spray into the throttle body air intake, then there may be a fuel supply problem.
Does the 'check engine' light come on when you roll the key to the ignition position and are there any fault codes? Does it still light below freezing?
http://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html
I almost think that it could be the PCM failing cold. It is rare, but it does happen. A PCM can be removed and placed in a home freezer for an hour or so and then put back in the car for a test start. You could do this test twice to better verify that this is or isn't the problem.
Other electrical components can fail cold. Some can set fault codes and some can't. A can of freeze spray from Radio Shack (or other store) can cool small things like sensors and ignition coil, etc. for test starts.