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I have replaced everything in my Dodge Challenger - completely brand new front suspension. I have done this twice already and still dealing with the same issues. My car hits extremely hard and makes all kinds of banging noises. I get blown all over the place. When I apply my brand new brakes the whole damn car shakes and shimmies and vibrates. I am also getting this insanely annoying clunking sound when I hit the smallest of bumps. It is the most annoying vehicle I have ever been in and it is my dream car. What is wrong with this dang thing? Pleaseeeeeeee help me!
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Welcome to Allpar. What year and how many miles?
Is the clunking in the floor (under your feet), out front?, about dash level?, louder on one side or the other?
The tension strut (#13 below) won't exhibit wear or play until one end is disconnected (it's under tension). Has that been checked?
Don't replace anymore parts until you can confirm they are in need of replacement.

 

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Strut mounts, swaybar links, and tension struts are most common weak points on RWD LD/LA cars. Repeated swaybar link failure is generally a result of a failed/failing control arm. Control arms have come a long way in quality since the old LX (2006-2010) models.

Beginning in 2016, the Heavy-Duty (police) RWD models started to incorporate a few pieces from their SRT sister cars. In particular, tension struts got a much beefier "ball" end, and solid bushings. These would be a good choice in any LD/LA that is driven in a spirited fashion.

If you need tension struts, order the following:
Mopar Sales Code - SDB
Right - 68225314AB
Left - 68225315AB

Swaybar links - definitely, go Mevotech
TXK 80262 (R)
TXK 80263 (L)

Rear front LCA - Mevotech
CMS 251112

Upper LCA - Mevotech
CTXMS 25117 (L)
CTXMS 25118 (R)

Be Advised
Don't go crazy with the really stiff stuff. If you put all Mopar Police/Hellcat parts up front, it will ride absolutely horrible, and you will hate it. Use the Mopar tension struts for durability. The Mevotech stuff is cheaper, well-made, is proven to hold up very well in the field, and is also greasable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Welcome to Allpar. What year and how many miles?
Is the clunking in the floor (under your feet), out front?, about dash level?, louder on one side or the other?
The tension strut (#13 below) won't exhibit wear or play until one end is disconnected (it's under tension). Has that been checked?
Don't replace anymore parts until you can confirm they are in need of replacement.

It is a 2012 Dodge Challenger SXT Plus. It has almost 260,000 but this has been happening since about 70,000 miles. I have had the entire front end replaced multiple times. I can hear it the most from the passenger side and it can be felt under my feet on the passenger side. Every minor bump I can feel. It hits extremely hard. Just had all new shocks and everything put on for the third time. When I brake, just had new brakes put on to, when I brake it vibrates and shakes. The weirdest thing is when I lift the car to have work done and it gets set back down for about 100 miles or so it rides so smooth and than BAM back to a horrible ride.
 

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I have had the entire front end replaced multiple times.
By whom, and what level of experience and qualifications does this person/shop have? My dealer - Tom O'Brien, Greenwood, Indiana (south side of Indy) - had to touch mine ONCE to fix the front end in 2010, merely removing, replacing, and torquing the cradle to specs to remedy a popping noise. I've never had to touch it since for mechanicals, have only had to do a couple of recalls, including the airbags, thank you Takata, and they see it at least annually. Granted, she only has a tad over 115k miles, mostly highway. Also, what kind of driving and road conditions does your baby see regularly?
 

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It is a 2012 Dodge Challenger SXT Plus. It has almost 260,000 but this has been happening since about 70,000 miles. I have had the entire front end replaced multiple times. I can hear it the most from the passenger side and it can be felt under my feet on the passenger side. Every minor bump I can feel. It hits extremely hard. Just had all new shocks and everything put on for the third time. When I brake, just had new brakes put on to, when I brake it vibrates and shakes. The weirdest thing is when I lift the car to have work done and it gets set back down for about 100 miles or so it rides so smooth and than BAM back to a horrible ride.
Replace the wheel bearing/hub assembly(s) with Timkens. The SKF's used for OEM typically do not last much longer than 75,000 miles.

If still no good, replace the inner tie-rods with Mopar parts.

Shifting the engine cradle was an early Chrysler service alignment procedure, since made obsolete with better quality tie-rod ends, adjustable control arm bolts, etc. You shouldn't ever have to monkey with the K-frame on an LD or LA (your Challenger is an LA), unless it was in a wreck.

Brake shudder, loud clunking, and a brief return to normal after being on a lift definitely point to a failed or failing wheel bearing. You are probably getting a howl or growl at times, too. The best way to check them on these cars is to remove the tire, caliper, and rotor, and spin it, while checking for play, noise, or a gritty "feel".

Since we don't know what parts have already gone into it (brand and part numbers), there are no limit to the number of variables that could still be at issue, outside of what we've discussed here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
By whom, and what level of experience and qualifications does this person/shop have? My dealer - Tom O'Brien, Greenwood, Indiana (south side of Indy) - had to touch mine ONCE to fix the front end in 2010, merely removing, replacing, and torquing the cradle to specs to remedy a popping noise. I've never had to touch it since for mechanicals, have only had to do a couple of recalls, including the airbags, thank you Takata, and they see it at least annually. Granted, she only has a tad over 115k miles, mostly highway. Also, what kind of driving and road conditions does your baby see regularly?
I reside in Maryland so the roads are horrendous. I put about 60,000 miles or more on her every year.
 

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KOG
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Maryland does have some bad roads. Then there are New Jersey, Michigan, Louisiana. Here in GA we have some of the best if not the best roads in the country. Don't ask how much we send on them or how much of that goes to bribery ---.
 

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Maryland does have some bad roads. Then there are New Jersey, Michigan, Louisiana. Here in GA we have some of the best if not the best roads in the country. Don't ask how much we send on them or how much of that goes to bribery ---.
Two weeks ago, I drove from Florida to NJ. I have to say that driving in GA is a pleasure on 95. They've done a really nice job.
 
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KOG
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Two weeks ago, I drove from Florida to NJ. I have to say that driving in GA is a pleasure on 95. They've done a really nice job.
The flip side of that is traffic. Atlanta has a justly deserved world wide reputation as some of the worst. Truckers hate the place.
 

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I reside in Maryland so the roads are horrendous. I put about 60,000 miles or more on her every year.
Where are you in Maryland? I use to commute from the northern neck area of VA across the Nice bridge (crosses the Potomac River) through southern MD up to DC and the roads were not bad. Slightly better than those in VA. At least MD knows how to add shoulders - something VA doesn't do well.

60,000 miles? That's an average of 1,153 miles per week.

I use to do about 30,000 miles a year with my Ram and I thought that was a lot.

I have to say that driving in GA is a pleasure on 95. They've done a really nice job.
Indeed. I drive from VA to Tampa, FL last June and GA had some of the smoothest roads I ever drove on.
 

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I reside in Maryland so the roads are horrendous. I put about 60,000 miles or more on her every year.
Sounds more like normal wear and tear if the roads are that bad AND you put that many miles on it in a year. I am still on original shocks (and brakes) at 116,000 miles. It's mostly highway driving on decent roads.
 

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Sounds more like normal wear and tear if the roads are that bad AND you put that many miles on it in a year.
Tony - the roads in MD (well, at least southern MD) are not as bad as the OP seems to indicate. Western MD may be a different story as well as Baltimore.

60,000 miles per year is a lot for any vehicle (except 18 wheelers). He's probably replacing tires every year at that rate.

I use to average 30K a year on my Ram driving about 600 miles per week. It was a few years ago the ball joints on the lower control arms had to be replaced at around 260K miles.
 
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The flip side of that is traffic. Atlanta has a justly deserved world wide reputation as some of the worst. Truckers hate the place.
Very true! Atlanta is a whole other story. :D
 

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60,000 miles per year is a lot for any vehicle (except 18 wheelers). He's probably replacing tires every year at that rate.

I use to average 30K a year on my Ram driving about 600 miles per week. It was a few years ago the ball joints on the lower control arms had to be replaced at around 260K miles.
No doubt. I used to push into the mid-30s prior to 2010. Now I'm lucky if I even have to change the oil more than annually on anything other than to protect against acids, especially this last year. Actually, my Jeep - which had it's ball joints replaced 2 years ago a little over 150k miles - is getting an oil change in 1500 miles and it was changed last Fall during harvest, but I also drove an extra 2000 miles this winter on a trip to NH. Hasn't yet used a quart on Total 0W30 I picked up cheap through ID Parts. Easily runs a 10,000 mile OCI.
 

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No doubt. I used to push into the mid-30s prior to 2010. Now I'm lucky if I even have to change the oil more than annually on anything other than to protect against acids, especially this last year. Actually, my Jeep - which had it's ball joints replaced 2 years ago a little over 150k miles - is getting an oil change in 1500 miles and it was changed last Fall during harvest, but I also drove an extra 2000 miles this winter on a trip to NH. Hasn't yet used a quart on Total 0W30 I picked up cheap through ID Parts. Easily runs a 10,000 mile OCI.
Same here. I have telecommuted for the past three years and now average 7,000 miles per year (between 500-600 miles per month) with the Ram. I've only gone about 3,000 miles since the last oil change. Wife's' Equinox on the other has had two oil changes in the that time. She has a one way commute of 60 miles.
 
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