[Bob ONeill]

These engines are NOT V8 torque monsters. You should produce about 7psi boost and be able to hold it for a little while. However should you try to boost more than that on a T1 setup the wastegate opens and it bleeds off the boost so, you're limited to the 7psi on a T1 setup.

It is possible to increase the boost manually by changing the setup but that will put you at risk for burning lean. This condition would be a major risk since burning lean tends to put holes in the tops of pistons and make the engine go boom.

Start with the basics.

Be sure the battery is fully changed. These setups don't like 'low voltage' as they are computer controlled.
Check codes and handle any issues - check all vacuum lines and electrical connections/wires
Be sure the fuel filter is not too clogged.
Drive it like you love it.

 

[Bob ONeill]

11 PSI is the max boost on his engine Bob. This is a Hi Torque model.

Torque isn't boost. The torque comes from the stroke of the crank/piston assembly. I thought that all T1 engines limited boost to 7psi.

 

[Bob ONeill]

OK then I will stay with curtain one..... vac leak somewhere.

 

[Bob ONeill]

Overheating? Bad timing settings? Both bad and indicate to me that there might be something going on here.

In addition to an overly lean condition timing which is set wrong can also contribute to burning the tops of pistons if conditions are right. But more likely than that it tends to help in the destruction of head gaskets as in the timing causes the 'fire' to come too soon and this is not good.

So, with the temp going way WAY too high and you having to reset timing tells me that there may be something wrong now with the inside of the engine. Did you use a good timing light to set the timing?

For example, too hot and losing coolant may mean bad head gasket or cracked head.

 

[Bob ONeill]

Seriously? Not setting the timing with a timing light because you don't want to remove the air box? I'm not sure you need to do that as long as you see the timing mark. It's a T1 similar to mine and I don't have to remove the air box to see the timing light. I'd love to see a photo of your setup. It must be far different than mine.

There is no way you can get proper performance without having the timing set properly, with a timing light.

 

[Bob ONeill]

Looking at your air box setup and comparing it with mine I find they are the same. So, unless someone changed something, if you look straight down at the top of the transmission to the right side of the head you'll see a hole in the bracket. Below that hole you may see a rubber 'plug' or if it's gone you'll see the edge of the flywheel. On the flywheel there will be a 'cut'. This groove is the timing 'mark' which is lined up with the marks on the transmission housing.

As Bob Lincoln has mentioned, warm up the car and then pull the temp sensor wire. This is the two wire connector on the sensor at the thermostat housing. The engine will raise RPM. Then with a 'good' timing light connected to the #1 plug wire adjust the distributor (after loosening the hold down bolt) until the timing stays at 12° BTDC. Then tighten the distributor hold down bolt and check to see that the timing didn't change. Adjust if necessary.

I've had mine at 14° BTDC and it ran more aggressively than at 10° or 12°. But, run it at 12° first before 'playing' with the timing.

Another possibility is that the cam timing has changed or is otherwise wrong. If at 12° BTDC and all the vacuum hoses in place with all else OK you should be able to boost over 7psi under load. If you can't it may be possible that cam timing may be at issue. But, that's only a thought as the cam timing usually doesn't change unless someone changed the belt and didn't put it on properly when adjusting the cam timing.