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Oil pump install

2806 Views 2 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  StarFire_MK2
I'm replacing the oil pump and pickup in my 2.2 non-turbo Sundance (87) in the next few weeks. The Haynes manual says it's as simple as dropping the pan, pulling the pump, and installing the new one. Sounded simple; an afternoon job I could easily handle. The pump arrived this week (Melling 118, IIRC), and came without any instructions. Somewhat curious about that, I started surfing the net, researching the project.

I came across one site which said I need to set #1 piston at TDC, then remove the distributor and ensure the oil pump shaft groove is parallel to the crank. This is obviously more complex than what Haynes told me the project entailed. Most sites I've viewed follow variations on the Haynes instructions.

What is the correct procedure for oil pump replacement? Also, I assume I am to leave the cotter pin in the pump? It's part of the pressure relief system?

Thanks in advance.
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Set the engine to TDC... or if you don't have the belt on, align the crankshaft dot to the intermediate shaft sprocket scribe mark (like you are setting for timing belt installation). It is best to have the belt on to help prevent the intermediate shaft from turning, but have the marks set to TDC. You want to install the pump so that when it is fully seated, the slot that you view from inside the distributor hole is parallel to the center line of the crankshaft. Of course that means the distributor needs to come out and you must note its rotor position which should be pointing to the #1 cylinder contact inside the distributor cap. After you install the pump (before you put the pan on), make sure all timing marks are lined up and the distributor is pointing to #1 spark plug contact. Make a couple of trial installs of the pump if necessary because the bevel gears will cause the pump shaft (and the slot) to turn a little. When you are sure everything is lined up, put the pan on. You will have to perform basic distributor timing after you get it running.

Yes, the cotter key stays in and of course the pickup gets reconnected with a new O-ring. there is no gasket for oil pump to block, but they recommend a sealant instead.
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