[TaxiGirl]

Hello, I am having two issues and they could be related but I am not sure. The only code I am getting is the P1797. Please advise as to where this switch is and how can I replace it. I have searched out this switch online but have failed to find that this switch is actually even used on my 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan. Symptoms are that it is difficult to shift the lever out of park and if the ELECTRONIC STABILITY CONTROL light is on, is on then this is when I have the problem. I must power down and restart in order to start. I am afraid eventually it will fail completely.

I am wondering what this ECS which has a button on the front console on the same panel as the hazard lights is coming on? When I push the button, it seems to do nothing. Why is this light coming on? What can I do to correct this issue?

 

[TaxiGirl]

Regarding the P1797 fault code, I think this is the same component I've been having intermittent problems with on our Journey (62TE transmission). It's not a neutral safety switch, but is now referred to as the TRS (Transmission Range Sensor). Unfortunately, it is deep inside the transmission requiring the pan dropped and valve body removed to access. Probably looking at 2-3 hours labor at over $100/hour (maybe more).

I would advise having a properly equipped shop or dealership confirm the diagnosis first. Mine has never been hard to get out of park. I just had no start issues. Whenever the no start situation occurred I could move the gear select to neutral and it would start up. Your symptoms sound more like a hardware or physical problem - maybe a brake interlock problem or a dragging parking pawl? Perhaps the parking pawl has been damaged? Again, I recommend a competent shop or dealer to do diagnostics - plan on an hours labor charge.

I'm not sure if the ECS is related or not. My Journey owners manual indicates if the ESP (Electronic Stability Program) light is on (other than at start up momentarily) a malfunction has been detected.

The ECS/ESP button you refer to allows you to partially turn off the electronic stability control. The ESP (or in your case ECS) light will be on to indicate this. Consult your owners manual.

Thank you for the information. I emailed someone I found on youtube that works on Dodge for a living and he said this:

"I'm showing P1797 being a manual shift overheat. Its a code that can come up when driving in autostick mode and not realizing it. I would clear the code....make sure the fluid level is correct and then see if it returns. Might help to talk to the driver to see how they have been shifting it and showing them where the autostick feature is. Its a feature that really isn't needed and cause be overlooked. As far as the light.....the codes need to be pulled to see if any are present"

and this:

"if you move the shifter all the way down....and then move it left or right, you will be placing it in autostick mode. It will show a number on the dash instead of the "D". Prolonged driving in autostick mode will cause the trans to get hot and set the code. It can be accidently by just bumping the shifter. Getting that code thats setting the light will be the biggest help when it comes to checking it further"

I could not find a Neutral Switch and I had been reading about the TRS and from what it looks like on most vehicles, it is outside the transmission but reading responses here below indicates that it is not the case. Bummer

 

[TaxiGirl]

You can do an internet search on diagnostic code P1797. You will find information that indicates there is a malfunction with the Park / Neutral switch. On the 62TE automatic transaxle in your vehicle there is no Park / Neutral safety switch. There is a transmission range sensor that sends binary signals / ON, OFF to the PCM (powertrain control module). A rationality check is performed on the transmission range sensor signals and that is how the logic knows which range / gear the transmission is currently operating.

However I did a review in a Chilton service manual for 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan and it indicates that code P1797 is associated with manual shift overheating in the transmission. So this is confusing. Maybe others can specifically identify the condition related to code P1797.

Thank you for replying I have a feeling it is the TRS . I also think it will probably eventually not shift out of park

 

[TaxiGirl]

Something is, or thinks that it is overheating? Do you drive the vehicle in AutoStick mode?
First check the ATF fluid level. Radiator fan working? (I seem to remember that you had previous problems with this).
ATF cooler functioning OK?

P1797-MANUAL SHIFT OVERHEAT

The major cause of heat build up in the transmission is torque converter slip. With the transmission in the AutoStick® mode, the torque converter can slip during aggressive driving or heavy loading conditions such as trailer towing or driving up steep grades. In the non AutoStick® mode, internal controller logic prevents the transmission from overheating by managing the shift and EMCC schedule. In the AutoStick® mode, when the transmission or engine temperature approaches an overheat condition, the manual shift overheat DTC sets and the AutoStick® mode is temporarily suspended until the temperature returns to normal.

The ESC light being on may be related. The fault code for that should be stored in the ABS module. It would help to know that code also.

I had the torque converter already replaced about 150K miles ago I hope that it is not going out again. So, the code could have been set when driving aggressively which I have done on occasion but, to my recollection, I have never seen it or have even ever tried to go into autostick mode. I may not have noticed it though. What is weird about this is. there is not a problem until the ESC light comes on and when I stop to pick up a passenger I have to put it in park, in order to open the auto door. And if light is already on, I have to turn off the ignition and restart in order to shift into drive.

 

[TaxiGirl]

Something is, or thinks that it is overheating? Do you drive the vehicle in AutoStick mode?
First check the ATF fluid level. Radiator fan working? (I seem to remember that you had previous problems with this).
ATF cooler functioning OK?

P1797-MANUAL SHIFT OVERHEAT

The major cause of heat build up in the transmission is torque converter slip. With the transmission in the AutoStick® mode, the torque converter can slip during aggressive driving or heavy loading conditions such as trailer towing or driving up steep grades. In the non AutoStick® mode, internal controller logic prevents the transmission from overheating by managing the shift and EMCC schedule. In the AutoStick® mode, when the transmission or engine temperature approaches an overheat condition, the manual shift overheat DTC sets and the AutoStick® mode is temporarily suspended until the temperature returns to normal.

The ESC light being on may be related. The fault code for that should be stored in the ABS module. It would help to know that code also.

How do I find out what the ABS code is, Do I have to go to dealer? None of this issue so far has turn on the check engine light. Oh yeah but about 2 weeks ago I did get a check engine light and it say it was the Brake Switch, I cannot remember the code but, after I replaced the brake switch by the brake pedal the code went away. I certainly am not ready to retire my Caravan. I hope it is not a hard thing to fix

 

[TaxiGirl]

Allan,

I found the following by Googling "2011 Dodge Caravan neutral safety switch":

Fix Your Dodge With Your Own Hands (at http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/7dxcu-grand-caravan-please-tell-neutral-safety-switch.html )

Thanks but it would have been better if it was on the 62TE, this picture shows the TRS on a 41TE I hope it is the same location on the 62TE

 

[TaxiGirl]

Good find. It is always nice to have an image showing where parts are located.

I am still questioning the interpretation of code P1797. When OBD II was established codes P0000 --> P0999 were generic and used by all manufacturers to indicate the same type of fault / device / failure / etc. Codes P1000 --> P 19999 are manufacturer specific. So Chrysler code P1797 will not necessarily mean the same as another manufacturer's code P1797. In fact I did an internet search and found one manufacturer where P1797 indicates a crankshaft position sensor failure.

To the original poster concerned about getting stranded and NOT being able to move the shift lever from the PARK position:

Go to this link and view the video on how to override the shift lever interlock and move the shift lever. Vehicle is a 2009 VW Routan which is really a rebadged Dodge Grand Caravan sold by VW. Go to time interval 21:28 to see and listen to the comment about override.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpCNgEH4eLA

I will watch it. I know about sticking something in the hidden square hole to get it to release but maybe this is something different. Thank you.

 

[TaxiGirl]

Regarding the P1797 fault code, I think this is the same component I've been having intermittent problems with on our Journey (62TE transmission). It's not a neutral safety switch, but is now referred to as the TRS (Transmission Range Sensor). Unfortunately, it is deep inside the transmission requiring the pan dropped and valve body removed to access. Probably looking at 2-3 hours labor at over $100/hour (maybe more).

I would advise having a properly equipped shop or dealership confirm the diagnosis first. Mine has never been hard to get out of park. I just had no start issues. Whenever the no start situation occurred I could move the gear select to neutral and it would start up. Your symptoms sound more like a hardware or physical problem - maybe a brake interlock problem or a dragging parking pawl? Perhaps the parking pawl has been damaged? Again, I recommend a competent shop or dealer to do diagnostics - plan on an hours labor charge.

I'm not sure if the ECS is related or not. My Journey owners manual indicates if the ESP (Electronic Stability Program) light is on (other than at start up momentarily) a malfunction has been detected.

The ECS/ESP button you refer to allows you to partially turn off the electronic stability control. The ESP (or in your case ECS) light will be on to indicate this. Consult your owners manual.

I know how to turn off the ESC Electronic Stability Control by holding the button in for 5 seconds. But, that will not keep it off if there is a problem turning it back on in my case

 

[TaxiGirl]

Thank you for the information. I emailed someone I found on youtube that works on Dodge for a living and he said this:

"I'm showing P1797 being a manual shift overheat. Its a code that can come up when driving in autostick mode and not realizing it. I would clear the code....make sure the fluid level is correct and then see if it returns. Might help to talk to the driver to see how they have been shifting it and showing them where the autostick feature is. Its a feature that really isn't needed and cause be overlooked. As far as the light.....the codes need to be pulled to see if any are present"

and this:

"if you move the shifter all the way down....and then move it left or right, you will be placing it in autostick mode. It will show a number on the dash instead of the "D". Prolonged driving in autostick mode will cause the trans to get hot and set the code. It can be accidently by just bumping the shifter. Getting that code thats setting the light will be the biggest help when it comes to checking it further"

I could not find a Neutral Switch and I had been reading about the TRS and from what it looks like on most vehicles, it is outside the transmission but reading responses here below indicates that it is not the case. Bummer

Good find. It is always nice to have an image showing where parts are located.

I am still questioning the interpretation of code P1797. When OBD II was established codes P0000 --> P0999 were generic and used by all manufacturers to indicate the same type of fault / device / failure / etc. Codes P1000 --> P 19999 are manufacturer specific. So Chrysler code P1797 will not necessarily mean the same as another manufacturer's code P1797. In fact I did an internet search and found one manufacturer where P1797 indicates a crankshaft position sensor failure.

To the original poster concerned about getting stranded and NOT being able to move the shift lever from the PARK position:

Go to this link and view the video on how to override the shift lever interlock and move the shift lever. Vehicle is a 2009 VW Routan which is really a rebadged Dodge Grand Caravan sold by VW. Go to time interval 21:28 to see and listen to the comment about override.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpCNgEH4eLA

It is not an issue at all about being stranded. The issue is that I have spent a fortune on this van and I still love it anyway. But, I drive a taxi for a living and our business has been cut more than half. I just do not have the financial resources to buy another one and I am not ready to let this one go. I have 309K miles on it with original motor and tranny. I expected that I eventually would be having issues with the tranny I just know that it cost alot to work on one of them. My taxi still looks new on the inside and good on the outside and I baby it and do all the maintenance myself to keep it running great. However, I have neglected this ESC light issue because I thought it was related to the CLOCKSPRING which mine has sprung for the drivers side front air bag so, I ignored it . I did not just imagine the CLOCKSPRING, but I have researched and found some information that leads me to believe it.

 

[TaxiGirl]

I agree that the image labeling is misleading. Even though it states 41TE I believe the image is a 62TE. My reason for believing this is because it shows a variable line pressure solenoid adjacent to the TRS sensor plug. The 41TE transaxle did not have this additional line pressure solenoid. Besides this the 62TE is physically very close in design to the 41TE so expect the TRS and other components to be in virtually identical in location.



You need to perform this test / observation before condemning the TRS. Turn the ignition switch to ON / RUN. In the lower part of the speedometer housing the P R N D will illuminate. If the transmission shifter is in PARK position, there should be a rectangle outlining the P. As you move the shifter to R, N, and D positions the rectangle outline will move to each letter in sequence. Does this happen? If YES then the TRS is functioning properly and has NOT failed. How does one know this?

Moving the shift lever actuates a mechanical control cable on the transmission valve body. On the actuator arm inside the transmission and near the valve body, there are 4 cams that move and open and close 4 logic sense switches: T42, T41, T3, T1. These 4 switches aggregated together represent a digital code for each gear selector position. The PCM interprets this binary code and sends the appropriate signal to the instrument cluster module to display P or R ro N or D. If these 4 switches were not functioning properly nor was the digital code interpreted correctly, you would see something wrong. For instance with the selector In PARK position the R would be highlighted or if the shifter was in D position, N would be highlighted. If the P R N D display illumination matches where the shifter lever is positioned, the TRS mechanism is working correctly and NOT the cause of the stuck shifter.

Dose the cruise control function correctly? That is does the cruise disengage when depressing the brake pedal? If it does that correctly then the brake sense function is being monitored correctly by the PCM. The TRS digistal sense code and the brake sense code are sent over the vehicle network to the wireless control module. The wireless module controls the unlocking feature of the shifter.

Does the vehicle have keyless entry where you use a remote key fob to lock and unlock the doors? Does the remote lock and unlock feature work properly? If YES then you know that the wireless control module is communicating over the vehicle network. It receives the command, lock or unlock, via digital air transmission, interprets the command and then sends the appropriate signal over the network to the receiving device to lock or unlock. If this is happening then there is no lack of communication between modules and that is not the reason for the stuck shifter.

I am thinking that there is a potential mechanical problem in the shifter such as a stuck cam or the locking solenoid has a poor wiring connection.

ok i Have new info. i was looking on yourube to see if i could read codes without a scanner and found that on older models that if you put key in and turn it to off 2 times and a third time leave on that you will get codes. I went to Oreilys had her hook up the scanner and I tried this .
first of the audible alarm chime that you would think would turn on a light comes on and no light.
then all of the sudden the ABS and the Brake light came on and flashed. Then following that but not at the same time comes the ESC light.
codes were P0572, P0703, P1797 and C1000. I replaced brake switch a week ago. a part i got at Oreilys. . Reminder, Front driver airbag has been deployed.

 

[TaxiGirl]

I agree that the image labeling is misleading. Even thook. ugh it states 41TE I believe the image is a 62TE. My reason for believing this is because it shows a variable line pressure solenoid adjacent to the TRS sensor plug. The 41TE transaxle did not have this additional line pressure solenoid. Besides this the 62TE is physically very close in design to the 41TE so expect the TRS and other components to be in virtually identical in location.



You need to perform this test / observation before condemning the TRS. Turn the ignition switch to ON / RUN. In the lower part of the speedometer housing the P R N D will illuminate. If the transmission shifter is in PARK position, there should be a rectangle outlining the P. As you move the shifter to R, N, and D positions the rectangle outline will move to each letter in sequence. Does this happen? If YES then the TRS is functioning properly and has NOT failed. How does one know this?

Moving the shift lever actuates a mechanical control cable on the transmission valve body. On the actuator arm inside the transmission and near the valve body, there are 4 cams that move and open and close 4 logic sense switches: T42, T41, T3, T1. These 4 switches aggregated together represent a digital code for each gear selector position. The PCM interprets this binary code and sends the appropriate signal to the instrument cluster module to display P or R ro N or D. If these 4 switches were not functioning properly nor was the digital code interpreted correctly, you would see something wrong. For instance with the selector In PARK position the R would be highlighted or if the shifter was in D position, N would be highlighted. If the P R N D display illumination matches where the shifter lever is positioned, the TRS mechanism is working correctly and NOT the cause of the stuck shifter.

Dose the cruise control function correctly? That is does the cruise disengage when depressing the brake pedal? If it does that correctly then the brake sense function is being monitored correctly by the PCM. The TRS digistal sense code and the brake sense code are sent over the vehicle network to the wireless control module. The wireless module controls the unlocking feature of the shifter.

Does the vehicle have keyless entry where you use a remote key fob to lock and unlock the doors? Does the remote lock and unlock feature work properly? If YES then you know that the wireless control module is communicating over the vehicle network. It receives the command, lock or unlock, via digital air transmission, interprets the command and then sends the appropriate signal over the network to the receiving device to lock or unlock. If this is happening then there is no lack of communication between modules and that is not the reason for the stuck shifter.

I am thinking that there is a potential mechanical problem in the shifter such as a stuck cam or the locking solenoid has a poor wiring connection.

ok will try this and let you know. gotta go pick up passenger will try it tonight thank you

 

[TaxiGirl]

P0572, P0703 and C1000 are all brake switch codes. Are these old codes from before the switch was replaced? Or have these codes set since the switch was replaced?
The P0572 and P0703 may have a 'starts since set' listed that you can see on the scan tool. This might give an idea of how long these codes have been stored in the module.
Better erase them and see what comes back.

P0572 -Brake Switch 1 Stuck On
C1000 - Brake Pedal Switch 1 Circuit Performance
P0703 CHRYSLER - Brake Switch Performance

I still think that your 'hard to get out of Park' problem is due to a brake switch issue. Make sure that your brake taillights in the rear work.

after i replaced the brake switcg and drove it around and it cleared the code.

just now, the check engine light came on, i went to autozone and it is code P0572. same as before brake light switch .
Should I have purchased the Mopar switch instead of the Oreilys?
i cannot help but think there is another problem causing this to come on still.
what do you think.
those codes that i told you ttoday were not there yesterday but i could not see those codes until i turned key to on off 3 times so they could have been there but it just turned check engine light back on

 

[TaxiGirl]

I agree that the image labeling is misleading. Even though it states 41TE I believe the image is a 62TE. My reason for believing this is because it shows a variable line pressure solenoid adjacent to the TRS sensor plug. The 41TE transaxle did not have this additional line pressure solenoid. Besides this the 62TE is physically very close in design to the 41TE so expect the TRS and other components to be in virtually identical in location.



You need to perform this test / observation before condemning the TRS. Turn the ignition switch to ON / RUN. In the lower part of the speedometer housing the P R N D will illuminate. If the transmission shifter is in PARK position, there should be a rectangle outlining the P. As you move the shifter to R, N, and D positions the rectangle outline will move to each letter in sequence. Does this happen? If YES then the TRS is functioning properly and has NOT failed. How does one know this?

Moving the shift lever actuates a mechanical control cable on the transmission valve body. On the actuator arm inside the transmission and near the valve body, there are 4 cams that move and open and close 4 logic sense switches: T42, T41, T3, T1. These 4 switches aggregated together represent a digital code for each gear selector position. The PCM interprets this binary code and sends the appropriate signal to the instrument cluster module to display P or R ro N or D. If these 4 switches were not functioning properly nor was the digital code interpreted correctly, you would see something wrong. For instance with the selector In PARK position the R would be highlighted or if the shifter was in D position, N would be highlighted. If the P R N D display illumination matches where the shifter lever is positioned, the TRS mechanism is working correctly and NOT the cause of the stuck shifter.

Dose the cruise control function correctly? That is does the cruise disengage when depressing the brake pedal? If it does that correctly then the brake sense function is being monitored correctly by the PCM. The TRS digistal sense code and the brake sense code are sent over the vehicle network to the wireless control module. The wireless module controls the unlocking feature of the shifter.

Does the vehicle have keyless entry where you use a remote key fob to lock and unlock the doors? Does the remote lock and unlock feature work properly? If YES then you know that the wireless control module is communicating over the vehicle network. It receives the command, lock or unlock, via digital air transmission, interprets the command and then sends the appropriate signal over the network to the receiving device to lock or unlock. If this is happening then there is no lack of communication between modules and that is not the reason for the stuck shifter.

I am thinking that there is a potential mechanical problem in the shifter such as a stuck cam or the locking solenoid has a poor wiring connection.

ok, I shifted it i to each gear and each gear illuminated. There is no box outline though, just as it shifts green park reverse red, Neutral is green and Drive is green.
I do not use the cruise control but, i will check it one i start moving again. I am in the Queue at dfw airport.

The key fob isnt that old. i have to buy another one. But,sometimes i have to hit it several times before it unlocks the door.

But, as I stated just half an hour ago, I got 4 codes all related to brake switch. but a coupke of weeks ago when i replaced it, i was able to get the check engine light to go off.
Today the po572 turned on the check engine light again. i purchased the brake switch at Oreilys. maybe I should get the Mopar.

 

[TaxiGirl]

A failed clockspring would light the AIRBAG light and maybe you would lose steering wheel controls like horn, cruise control and radio controls.
The clockspring might also have the steering wheel angle sensor in it that the ESC depends on for steering wheel input information during an emergency maneuver.

I have read information than leaned towards steering wheel angle sensor.

 

[TaxiGirl]

You performed the TRS sense switch test and all gear positions on the instrument panel illuminate as expected. So your TRS is working properly. No need to replace it. The sticking shifter lever that will not exit PARK position is NOT attributable to a failed TRS.

I replaced switch recently because a couple of weeks ago , i got the p0572 code with check engine light. and i remember thinking to myself that the new switch seemed too long because the plunger had stuck out further than the one that i took off. i did not adjust the brake pedal i just installed new switch while pushing in on the plunger.

after i replaced the switch light was still on I drove it a few times and decided to unhook the battery to see if light would go off and ot worked.

now we come to this point last friday when ine of the heater hoses busted and sprayed anti freeze all over everything including switches for transmission and who knows what else

I got that fixed by friday afternoon installed a half inch brass tee in place of the plastic heater hose tee. then i ligtly sprayed off antifreeze.

later that night i started having this ESC light issue and then couple of more days all the other codes i told yall about.

I just did what you asked and had vehicle in park then got down and looked at brake pedal. it was all the way released. Also, when i push brakes lights come on and go off when released.


I believe the remote key fob unlock procedure works like this on Chrysler Corp vehicles. Press the UNLOCK button once; only the driver door unlocks. All other doors remain locked.

You performed the TRS sense switch test and all gear positions on the instrument panel illuminate as expected. So your TRS is working properly. No need to replace it. The sticking shifter lever that will not exit PARK position is NOT attributable to a failed TRS.




I believe the remote key fob unlock procedure works like this on Chrysler Corp vehicles. Press the UNLOCK button once; only the driver door unlocks. All other doors remain locked. Press the unlock button for the second time and the remaining doors unlock. I believe this is the situation you are encountering and this is how the system is designed to function.



I suspect that the cruise may not function properly or engage / disengage due to problems with the brake light switch. But test the cruise control when you have the opportunity and report back.



I think the brake light switch was not installed properly and the black plunger with button end that contacts the brake pedal arm is mis-adjusted / too short. I do not think you need a MOPAR brake light switch. It would need to be installed correctly.

I think the brake light switch is self adjusting upon installation. You only get one try at installation time to get it installed and adjusted correctly. Service procedures that I have found online allude to the fact that once installed but the plunger is not adjusted properly, you cannot remove and readjust the plunger. So maybe another brake light switch might be necessary. But let's continue to test and get definitive evidence before buying more parts. Why did you replace the original brake light switch?

With the vehicle parked start the engine. Immediately look under the dash at the brake pedal arm. Make sure the brake pedal arm is fully released and at its full rearward travel (ie brakes fully released). Look at the tail lamp assemblies at the rear. Are the brake lights turned on? If yes then the plunger button on the brake lamp switch has been retracted / pushed into the switch assembly too far and is not moving into the switch to open the sense circuit for the brake lamps. Check this and report back.

This is my best guess about the mis-adjusted switch. If other contributors have more detailed information about how the brake lamp switch should be installed please post.

I suspect that the cruise may not function properly or engage / disengage due to problems with the brake light switch. But test the cruise control when you have the opportunity and report back.



I think the brake light switch was not installed properly and the black plunger with button end that contacts the brake pedal arm is mis-adjusted / too short. I do not think you need a MOPAR brake light switch. It would need to be installed correctly.

I think the brake light switch is self adjusting upon installation. You only get one try at installation time to get it installed and adjusted correctly. Service procedures that I have found online allude to the fact that once installed but the plunger is not adjusted properly, you cannot remove and readjust the plunger. So maybe another brake light switch might be necessary. But let's continue to test and get definitive evidence before buying more parts. Why did you replace the original brake light switch?

With the vehicle parked start the engine. Immediately look under the dash at the brake pedal arm. Make sure the brake pedal arm is fully released and at its full rearward travel (ie brakes fully released). Look at the tail lamp assemblies at the rear. Are the brake lights turned on? If yes then the plunger button on the brake lamp switch has been retracted / pushed into the switch assembly too far and is not moving into the switch to open the sense circuit for the brake lamps. Check this and report back.

This is my best guess about the mis-adjusted switch. If other contributors have more detailed information about how the brake lamp switch should be installed please post.

Ok, i did as you suggested and the pedal is in fact all the way out and i verified proper operation of the brake light.
I put in a new switch because a couple of weeks ago, i got the code po572. when i installed the sw i remember thinking that the plunger was too long and that it would not fit compared to the oem i took out but all i had to do was pressure either on the plunger or the bracket that it rest on in order to install the switch.

I drove it for several miles a couple or three times but in order to turn off the check engine light i remove battery power. light went off.

then we come to last friday when one of the heater hoses busted and sprayed antifreeze on everything including exposed transmisdion switches, etc. after i corrected this problem later that evening i started having the reoccurring intermittant ESC
light where i had to kill power to let me go out of park into drive in the event that if the ESC light came on while i was driving at normal or low speed when i had to open the auto door.

then i got all the codes that i told yall about yesterday or sat.

ok, i am noticing an issue with the tranny as well. a few times in the last month when i would first go out and after backing out of driveway, and when i get around the corner to take off from the light, my transmission would slip. this morning it did more than slip, it seem to hesitate actually shifting into gear after lever was already into drive. i thought well its just not warmed up yet. usually the slip only happens first thing in the morning.

So i pull up to 7/11, put it in park engine still
i did not get to finish.

ok, so i pulled up to 7/11 and put in park engine still running.

i hear clicking noises coming from shift lever or under it.
so i powered down and turned back on and it quit

 

[TaxiGirl]

If you don't buy a Mopar brand switch, you want an OEM replacement switch to ensure proper fit and operation.
O'Reilly's offers 3 brake light switches for your vehicle. The MasterPro Ignition (MPI) brand is the only one that says that it is OEM. The 2 BWD brands say nothing about being OEM. Avoid non-OEM parts:
List: Stoplight Switch - 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan | O'Reilly Auto Parts (at http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Stoplight+Switch/02071/C0039.oap?year=2011&make=Dodge&model=Grand+Caravan&vi=1504646 )
The switch is non-adjustable, but if it isn't installed correctly you will have problems. Once the plunger sets to the brake pedal height with the pedal resting on its upstop, that is the adjustment.

i will look at the box to see which switch that i got, but it was the more expensive switch for sure it had the warranty. thanks for the info about the switch

 

[TaxiGirl]

I believe the proper installation procedure for the brake light switch is to depress the brake pedal and then install and rotate / lock the switch in the mounting bracket. Doing this prevents the EXTENDED plunger from contacting the brake pedal arm. Once the switch is locked into place, you release the brake pedal arm, the arm contacts the plunger pad and compresses it into the switch. The first movement of the plunger sets and adjusts its proper position. So I believe it is installed correctly.

Another simple test. When the brake pedal is depressed does the center, high mounted brake lamp illuminate and when released the high mounted brake lamp turns off?

I will give you a link to a dropbox folder that has 3 wiring schematics. Open the wiring diagram labeled fuses TIPM. Look under the hood at the TIPM and verify that the fuse in cavity M1 (rear center brake lamp) is good and has correct amp fuse. Likewise look at cavity 37 (antilock brakes, stability control, stop lamp) and it is proper and not blown.

It is tedious but I would check all the fuses and relays in the TIPM. If you look at the legend description, some fuses could be powering modules that might have some indirect influence on the diagnostic codes you are getting. The items labeled J are cartridge fuses and those labeled K are relays. Wiggle and make sure everything is seated properly and spade connectors are clean / not corroded. It is probably wishful thinking but sometimes in diagnosing problems the obvious approach gets overlooked.

Dropbox - 2011 Grand Caravan (at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0q60pr2wn9c364k/AABzCUwC7I_FhcyZF_mbramWa?dl=0 )

If you get to this point and the center high mounted brake lamp passes its test and all of the fuses and relays in the TIPM are satisfactory, I would remove the brake light switch and do some testing. Here is a link to a video that shows how to test the terminal of the brake light switch. Perform the test and determine if the brake light switch is still functioning properly. You will need a 12 volt powered test lamp or a volt-ohm meter that can check continuity in circuits.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nS1sUtgqcAs


In addition to the test shown in the video I would add this test. Seeing the orientation of the switch in the video with the switch plunger pointing to the left, mentally count and label the spade terminals from left to right in this fashion; 6 - 5 - 4 -3 - 2 - 1. With the plunger extended connect one lead of the test light / volt-ohm meter to terminal 6. In turn touch the other lead to terminal 4 , 3, 2, 1 in order. There should be NO continuity. Move the test lead to terminal 5. In turn touch the other lead to terminal 4, 3, 2, 1 in order. There should be NO continuity.

Repeat the above test with the plunger compressed. Press the plunger about 1/2 inch in. Use tape to hold the plunger into the switch assembly. Again touch a test light / meter lead to terminals 5 and 6 and in turn touch the other lead against terminals 4, 3, 2, 1 . There should be NO continuity. If the switch passes all these tests it is good. Installing an OEM switch is not going to fix this ongoing problem with code P0572 as you have tested and proven that the brake light switch is functioning properly. (I do NOT want to get into a discussion about the pros and cons of OEM parts versus aftermarket parts.)

If you get to this point and all testing still has not pinpointed a specific problem, then one is going to have to check wiring for open circuits, shorts to voltage or shorts to ground. In the dropbox link I have a document labeled P0572 diagnosis. It has a table of possible causes for code P0572. You would follow the diagnostic suggestions along with the diagram in document Brake Switch Wiring to PCM and trace the circuits.

Look at diagram Brake Switch Wiring to PCM. When the brake pedal is depressed the brake switch plunger extends and continuity is created between terminals 5 and 6 on the brake light switch. Terminal 5 is connected to ground and brake signal 1 wire is grounded. The PCM detects this and sends a message over the vehicle network to the TIPS to illuminate / turn on the rear brake lamps. When the pedal is released, the plunger is depressed and the circuit between terminals 5 and 6 is interrupted. The PCM detects this and tells the TIPM to cancel brake lamp illumination. However there is some intermittent condition (???) that is grounding signal wire 1 to the PCM on the dark green / white wire. The P0572 code indicates that the circuit from terminal 6 of the brake light switch is continually grounded and does not change state from OFF to ON and from OFF to ON. The PCM is getting logic confusion and thus does not send the proper signal to the wireless control module to unlock the shifter lever when the pedal is depressed and you attempt to move the shifter lever from PARK position. Shutting of the engine and then restarting temporarily clears the logic confusion or resets and the PCM sends the proper signal to the wireless control module to unlock the shifter when desired.

This is a lot to digest and the last part is my best guess as to theory of operation. View the video and perform all the brake light switch tests and then report back. Getting access to wiring and checking for shorts is a lot more involved.

i do not have a high mounted brake light but, there are so many other things to check with all the great information that you have provided. thank you so much as soon as I can get it done, daylight I will report back.

 

[TaxiGirl]

You should have a 3rd liftgate mounted brake light (LED, not bulbs).
We called them CHMSL (center high mounted stop light)
maxresdefault.jpg

Wow, this is the first time I ever have even seen that light. OMG i will have to check it

 

[TaxiGirl]

I believe the proper installation procedure for the brake light switch is to depress the brake pedal and then install and rotate / lock the switch in the mounting bracket. Doing this prevents the EXTENDED plunger from contacting the brake pedal arm. Once the switch is locked into place, you release the brake pedal arm, the arm contacts the plunger pad and compresses it into the switch. The first movement of the plunger sets and adjusts its proper position. So I believe it is installed correctly.

Another simple test. When the brake pedal is depressed does the center, high mounted brake lamp illuminate and when released the high mounted brake lamp turns off?

I will give you a link to a dropbox folder that has 3 wiring schematics. Open the wiring diagram labeled fuses TIPM. Look under the hood at the TIPM and verify that the fuse in cavity M1 (rear center brake lamp) is good and has correct amp fuse. Likewise look at cavity 37 (antilock brakes, stability control, stop lamp) and it is proper and not blown.

It is tedious but I would check all the fuses and relays in the TIPM. If you look at the legend description, some fuses could be powering modules that might have some indirect influence on the diagnostic codes you are getting. The items labeled J are cartridge fuses and those labeled K are relays. Wiggle and make sure everything is seated properly and spade connectors are clean / not corroded. It is probably wishful thinking but sometimes in diagnosing problems the obvious approach gets overlooked.

Dropbox - 2011 Grand Caravan (at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0q60pr2wn9c364k/AABzCUwC7I_FhcyZF_mbramWa?dl=0 )

If you get to this point and the center high mounted brake lamp passes its test and all of the fuses and relays in the TIPM are satisfactory, I would remove the brake light switch and do some testing. Here is a link to a video that shows how to test the terminal of the brake light switch. Perform the test and determine if the brake light switch is still functioning properly. You will need a 12 volt powered test lamp or a volt-ohm meter that can check continuity in circuits.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nS1sUtgqcAs


In addition to the test shown in the video I would add this test. Seeing the orientation of the switch in the video with the switch plunger pointing to the left, mentally count and label the spade terminals from left to right in this fashion; 6 - 5 - 4 -3 - 2 - 1. With the plunger extended connect one lead of the test light / volt-ohm meter to terminal 6. In turn touch the other lead to terminal 4 , 3, 2, 1 in order. There should be NO continuity. Move the test lead to terminal 5. In turn touch the other lead to terminal 4, 3, 2, 1 in order. There should be NO continuity.

Repeat the above test with the plunger compressed. Press the plunger about 1/2 inch in. Use tape to hold the plunger into the switch assembly. Again touch a test light / meter lead to terminals 5 and 6 and in turn touch the other lead against terminals 4, 3, 2, 1 . There should be NO continuity. If the switch passes all these tests it is good. Installing an OEM switch is not going to fix this ongoing problem with code P0572 as you have tested and proven that the brake light switch is functioning properly. (I do NOT want to get into a discussion about the pros and cons of OEM parts versus aftermarket parts.)

If you get to this point and all testing still has not pinpointed a specific problem, then one is going to have to check wiring for open circuits, shorts to voltage or shorts to ground. In the dropbox link I have a document labeled P0572 diagnosis. It has a table of possible causes for code P0572. You would follow the diagnostic suggestions along with the diagram in document Brake Switch Wiring to PCM and trace the circuits.

Look at diagram Brake Switch Wiring to PCM. When the brake pedal is depressed the brake switch plunger extends and continuity is created between terminals 5 and 6 on the brake light switch. Terminal 5 is connected to ground and brake signal 1 wire is grounded. The PCM detects this and sends a message over the vehicle network to the TIPS to illuminate / turn on the rear brake lamps. When the pedal is released, the plunger is depressed and the circuit between terminals 5 and 6 is interrupted. The PCM detects this and tells the TIPM to cancel brake lamp illumination. However there is some intermittent condition (???) that is grounding signal wire 1 to the PCM on the dark green / white wire. The P0572 code indicates that the circuit from terminal 6 of the brake light switch is continually grounded and does not change state from OFF to ON and from OFF to ON. The PCM is getting logic confusion and thus does not send the proper signal to the wireless control module to unlock the shifter lever when the pedal is depressed and you attempt to move the shifter lever from PARK position. Shutting of the engine and then restarting temporarily clears the logic confusion or resets and the PCM sends the proper signal to the wireless control module to unlock the shifter when desired.

This is a lot to digest and the last part is my best guess as to theory of operation. View the video and perform all the brake light switch tests and then report back. Getting access to wiring and checking for shorts is a lot more involved.

Found out last night that the Cruise Control does not work. Also, it is becoming now more of an automatic thing that I have to do to shift gears out of park, I must either kill the power if I have already been driving or, I have to insert something into the square little access place right above the shift lever and press down to release shift lever so that I can move into drive

 

[TaxiGirl]

A failed clockspring would light the AIRBAG light and maybe you would lose steering wheel controls like horn, cruise control and radio controls.
The clockspring might also have the steering wheel angle sensor in it that the ESC depends on for steering wheel input information during an emergency maneuver.

Cruise Control does not work and I have been suspicious of the the steering wheel angle sensor but, I am not sure where it is except that it is probably inside the steering wheel