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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Running some errands. Starting from a stop, engine jerked and ETC (Electronic Throttle Control) lamp flashed couple of times and stayed off. CEL lamp did not light. Normal/easy acceleration. Currently P2110 is stored (not active), no other dtc's.

Pulled the P2110 freeze frames using alphaOBD - attached. Appears to have happened multiple times.

Any thoughts on how to proceed?

Thanks in advance
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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See 'Possible Causes'. Start with a good visual inspection of the throttle body, wiring & butterfly movement.
No related software updates listed.
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. . . Starting from a stop, engine jerked and ETC (Electronic Throttle Control) lamp flashed couple of times and stayed off. CEL lamp did not light. Normal/easy acceleration. Currently P2110 is stored (not active), no other dtc's. . . .
It is possible that you have an intermittent sticking or binding of the throttle plate valve. Remove the hose on intake side of the throttle body. You should be able to push against the throotle plate and move it smoothly and hear the gears turn as the electric motor drive advances.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Pulled the throttle body yesterday. A bit gunked up but nothing that appeared to be a problem. The throttle plate moved nicely, no binding felt. Cleaned up the throttle body and sprayed the connectors with contact cleaner and reinstalled.

Do not have the tools for a 'relearn' so let the engine idle for a couple of minutes, ran a/c for a couple of minutes, and let idle while in drive for a couple of minutes. No issues, rpm's steady.

First drive, the engine stumbled on one acceleration from a stop and the ETC lamp flashed a few times. After that, did not recur. Had it out later for a 10-15 minute drive with no issues. Thinking the stumbled was part of the 'relearn'.

Now just waiting to see if the problem recurs. If it does, next would be to replace the throttle body. Time will tell.
 

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. . . .Pulled the throttle body yesterday. A bit gunked up but nothing that appeared to be a problem. The throttle plate moved nicely, no binding felt. Cleaned up the throttle body and sprayed the connectors with contact cleaner and reinstalled.
. . . .
First drive, the engine stumbled on one acceleration from a stop and the ETC lamp flashed a few times. After that, did not recur. Had it out later for a 10-15 minute drive with no issues. Thinking the stumbled was part of the 'relearn'. . . .
I would tend to think a "relearn" procedure might be necessary if the throttle body mechanism was replaced. All you did was remove, clean and reinstall the original unit so no relearning necessary.

I would suggest taking the vehicle to an auto parts store that offers free diagnostic code retrieval. See if there are any diagnostic codes stored that are associated with electronic throttle body wiring or performance. Also look for codes associated with accelerator pedal position sensors.

The electronic throttle body has 2 feedback circuits associated with the unit. The feedback circuits work in conjuction with the 2 accelerator pedial position sensors which control operation of the throttle body motor. All must work logically together to provide an accurate signal to the PCM for throttle control. Any wavering or intermittent signals will cause problems as you describe. Any codes present will help narrow the focus of the diagnosis before you "fire the parts cannon" and hope you are successful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have both appcar and alphaobd. The p2110 is the only code listed and is a stored code. alphaobd will show the captured data for the past dtc events and the only data that seems off is the voltages for the feedback circuits. There appears to be a bias in the voltages but the difference is consistent between the 2 feedback circuits for accelerator pedal and throttle body.

Totally onboard with diagnosing before firing the parts cannon.
 

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My wife has a 2012 that she bought new, and around Nov 2019 at 82K miles, the same thing happened to her. Finally conked out on her with limited throttle response. At first she had CEL, ECS and Throttle Body lights, but no stored codes. A month later, she got P2118 and P2110. A month after that, she got P2118, P2110, P2112 and P2173. What happened is something common to these cars - the cheap plastic gears that the throttle body motor uses to drive the throttle plate stripped, and as adjacent teeth disappeared, it got progressively worse, so that the commanded response could not be met, and it was in limp-in mode. Chrysler sells a new throttle body and wiring kit, we got it for about $400 and I did it myself.
Be sure not to overtorque the plastic intake manifold. And the wires have to be soldered/crimped manually, one at a time. The new throttle body has a different motor, with a 2x3 connector instead of a single-row 6-pin. And the wiring kit has all purple wires instead of color-coded, so you have to be sure to track the wires carefully. Takes 2-3 hours if you go slow and methodically. No relearn afterward.

I just found the old throttle body in the new part's box in the garage. I bought it from my local dealer, and for 2012 the part number of the improved throttle body and kit is 68420395AB. Can be found online for various prices, around $250 now.
 
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It is important to note that the accelerator pedal position sensor (APPS) is not a throttle position sensor (TPS).

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Follow-up - still had occasional ETC flashes. Decided to replace the throttle body. Put in a Standard Motor Products based on low return rate on Rockauto and they use metal gears, not plastic. Engine fired right up, no idle or drive issues with the new throttle body. Time will tell how this works out.

Interesting side note, for a number of months prior, I had been getting a harsh 3-4 upshift at times. Did a trans pan drop, filter replace and refill with atf+4 with no change. After replacing the throttle body have not experienced the harsh upshift, all shifts are smooth. Wondering if the the pcm mapping for the throttle body has a partial closing to reduce the torque prior to the upshift and after the upshift revert back to previous setting. If a throttle body gear was worn or missing a tooth could it possibly have caused the harshness when the rpm's did not change as quickly as expected by the mapping.

Thanks to all that posted, excellent advice as always.
 

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There was a software update that addressed some possible driveability issues:
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