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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

My 04 Neon RT has parasitic battery drain where battery will die if it sits for more than 3 days or so. Gonna check the battery cables and start checking circuits by removing negative cable and measuring with multimeter. Any common issues here?

Thank you
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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First, establish that there is a current draw with the car sitting. If you can measure it (start out on the amps scale and then switch down to milliamps (mA). It takes a moment for the modules to fall asleep, so it may begin with a draw that subsides after a minute or two.
Begin by pulling the IOD (ign off draw) fuse that suppllies battery power to the electrical system. The car is shipped and stored with the IOD disconnected. Isolate the circuit that is active by unplugging connectors until you find the one with a significant draw.
There will always be a small draw to keep module/clock memories alive.
I have used a small peanut (sidemarker) bulb in series with the battery for a visual indication of draw. It should go from a yellow-orange to a dull red as current drops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Pulled the radio fuse under the hood and amperage dropped substantially. It seems like the anti-theft device is the culprit? I imagine that is what the box in the photo is. It won’t start when it is disconnected. If it is factory, that seems like piss-poor wiring connections (I’m pointing at them)
 

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. . . Pulled the radio fuse under the hood and amperage dropped substantially. It seems like the anti-theft device is the culprit? I imagine that is what the box in the photo is. It won’t start when it is disconnected. If it is factory, that seems like piss-poor wiring connections (I’m pointing at them) . . .
A 2004 Neon would be standard factory equipped with a security key immobilizer system. The ignition key is a "fat key" and has an embedded chip which communicates with wireless control in the vehicle. Codes must agree between the key and wireless control before the system will allow the engine to start and run continuously.

The wiring connections are not factory issue. An aftermarket security like this is not necessary. These systems after a time period become very trouble prone for the original or subsequent owner.

When you say that the car won't start with this device disconnected what is the specific no start? Starter spins the engine but engine will not fire and run on its own? Or with device disconnected the starter does not engage and spin the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A 2004 Neon would be standard factory equipped with a security key immobilizer system. The ignition key is a "fat key" and has an embedded chip which communicates with wireless control in the vehicle. Codes must agree between the key and wireless control before the system will allow the engine to start and run continuously.

The wiring connections are not factory issue. An aftermarket security like this is not necessary. These systems after a time period become very trouble prone for the original or subsequent owner.

When you say that the car won't start with this device disconnected what is the specific no start? Starter spins the engine but engine will not fire and run on its own? Or with device disconnected the starter does not engage and spin the engine?
I removed what was the factory alarm. They cut a yellow wire in the wire loom. I spliced it back together and said parasitic draw is gone.

Thanks Imperial Crown and AllanC for the guidance.
 

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. . . I removed what was the factory alarm. They cut a yellow wire in the wire loom. I spliced it back together and said parasitic draw is gone. . . .
That yellow wire is energized when the ignition key switch is turned to the START position. This provides control side power to the starter relay. If the PCM has grounded the return side of the relay, the starter solenoid is engaged to turn the engine crankshaft. I do believe you made the proper step and removed the device.
 
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