[CudaPete]

I want to replace the parking brake shoes on my 01 PT TE with read disc brakes and have a few questions:

1. Do you have to remove the rear hub/bearing assembly to replace the parking brake shoes?

2. What size is the nut holding the rear hub on?

3. I noticed that the axle nut is a lock nut with nylon insert. Do you need to use a new axle nut for the rear hub/bearing assemble or can you resuse it?

Thanks,

Pete

 

[dana44]

1. Not sure. I thought the system was simply applying the ebrake to the caliper itself for disc rear brakes, so I learned something new here.

2. Not sure about the nut size, and even metric nuts, when they get that large, SAE sockets fit, like about 1.25 more than likely.

3.Nylocks are designed to be used several times without fail.

 

[CudaPete]

Anyone?

 

[ImperialCrown]

It's the 'drum in hat' style rear parking brake. The shoes and hardware can be replaced with the hub in place. It is a tight fit. There is a trick to slip the 'assembled' upper shoe strut and return spring past the hub and backing plate anchor.
It can be done easily with some practice. Do one side at a time so you have an assembled reference to go by.

 

[CudaPete]

Thanks......the "Crown" always comes through!

 

[CudaPete]

As usual, the Crown is correct. You can replace the parking brake shoes without removing the wheel hub. It's tight, but if you are careful, it is possible. The only problem I ran into is that I could not put the rotor back on when done. The diameter of the new shoes was too big, even with the star wheel fully adjusted in. So, the old shoes went back on for now. I think there is a dimensional problem with the new shoes. It looks like they don't mount properly compared to the originals.

 

[ImperialCrown]

The actuating 'finger' that hooks to the parking brake cable where the finger pivots on the strut is probably rusted frozen.
This finger passes through the backing plate and has a little rubber boot to keep dirt and water out. The new p/brake shoes are probably fine.
Place the strut and finger assembly in a vise and use solvent and heat to free the mechanism. Once it cools, make sure that it has free movement. I use a heavy oil or grease to protect the pivot from freezing again and then reassemble the rear brakes.
The problem with the current 'partially-applied' rear actuator finger is that it is keeping the rear shoes out in the applied position. This is why the drum won't fit back over them, even with the adjuster backed in all the way.
I'm sorry that they probably have to come back apart. I have never been able to really free these up while still on the car.

 

[CudaPete]

OK, that makes sense. I did check to see if the linkeage was working. I cleaned and greased it but did not disconnect the parking brake cable. It's holding for now, so I'll check it again once the weather cools down.