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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to repair / diagnose / maintain and am having trouble even looking up parts. I have some info:
1977 Dodge Van chassis by VIN F44CD7V058005 (13 digit VIN not 17 nowdays)
F means DODGE-MB400
4 means Conventional Cab W/Sweptline box;Compact Hi Line Wagon (Royal Sportsman); MB3 High-Line
C means 10.001 to 14,000 GVWR
D means 440-1 engine
7 means 1977
V means Warren Truck Plant Compact
Mallard Coach date of inc. mfg. 4/77 has their own VIN plate BUT changed engine letter to F ???
and they stamp model LS-23
I have also seen reference to Dodge F40 as parts?
 

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Most things from vans at the time are similar or the same. They offered a 440 in regular vans then. What is wrong with your motorhome?
 

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If you are looking for a parts diagram for the Dodge chassis portion of the truck, you can find a 1977 truck factory parts book.
If you are looking for information on the conversion portion, kit would depend on what information Mallard published (probably little to none).
 
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I believe also that the Mallard company that made his and the one today are not the same company. Just the name survived I think.
 

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Many RV and conversion van coachwork industries came and went. Many based in Northern Indiana.
Most are long gone and forgotten. Victims of the economy and fuel prices.
If you do come across a repository of orphan company info, share it. There are many others in need of service information. We had a 1978 E350 Honey.
Comparatively, the Dodge chassis parts catalog should be easy.
 

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KOG
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Most of the RV "manufacturers" are assemblers who use the same generic parts. Plumbing, electrical, heating and air are all bought from the same suppliers. So any systems in the actual RV portion will be from suppliers who are still in business. As asked above, what problem are you trying to address?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My problem is probably simple Click - no - start. Battery was 0.135v DC (Yes zero) 650CCA new battery bought real quick. Click-no-turnover, click sounded funny so I just put a new starter solenoid on the chassis mount and now I see a relay and a ballast to check, and of course all wiring for corrosion (known suspect when this old). Making a test lead with alligator clips and my meter will do continuity testing to confirm good wiring...
P.S. I found a VIN code chart that suggests to me that Mallard Coach company changed the engine VIN D dodge VIN F mallard, so I'm gonna take a look directly at the block (440-1 or 360-2 Bbl) Easy visual differences???

Fifth Digit: Engine Code (1974 to 1977)
Code Engine
---- -------
A 440-3
B 225-1
C 225-2
D 440-1
E LA 318-1
F 360-2 Bbl
G LA 318-3
H Cummins N-927 (1972)
H Cummins Super 250 (1973)
I Cummins V8-555
J 400-1
K 360-3 2 Bbl
L 361-3
L Cummins SHC 270
M 361-4
P 413-2
Q Detroit 6-71N
R 413-3
S Cummins NTC 350
T 360-4 2 Bbl
V Special 8 Cyl Gas
W Cummins NTC 290
X Special 6 Cyl Gas
Z Special Diesel
2 Catapillar 175 (1975)
2 Cummins NHC 250 (1974)
4 Cummins NTC 335
5 Cummins NTC 270 (1974)
5 Cummins PT 270 (1975)
6 Detroit 8V-71N
7 Detroit 8V-71NT
8 Cummins NH230
9 Perkins 6.354
 

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If it's a 360 or 318, the distributor is in the back.
If it's a 400 or 440, the distributor is in the front.
 
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You could also have a 413. My parents had one, about the same age, several years ago. Easier way to determine engine and age, if the distributor is in the front (B/RB engine), is the pad on the front of the engine. 383/400 (and 361) would be on the block edge of the driver's side water pump mounting location, 413/440 is on the flat of the block above the timing chain cover, driver's side. You could see a 38, 40, 41 or 44 with a letter before it. The letter will be the casting year. It's a little faster than crawling under the motorhome, but the date cast on the block down there will give the exact month/day/year, if you really need it.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
IT IS RUNNING!!! I replaced the starter relay and VROOM (OHHH the sound of a V-8 with a big Holly carb is soooooo awesome). Generic relay SR3 from Napa parts. Used on many Dodges. Found a dirty ballast resistor in a box under the front seat, so I'm assuming it was recently changed. Some tries to start cause spin noise from starter without turnover. Starter tested good at NAPA parts (free test), so sometimes not engaging. Could this quick fix battery (only 650CCA) be too weak for my 440 engine? Distributor by the front pulley says it was NOT changed to a 360-2bbl as Mallard Coach VIN change suggested. Now I need to pass a Colorado emissions test (or spend $715 after fail to get wavier). I can see some obvious things (PCV right side has no hose). Looking for info on 1977 dodge 440 emissions equipment. Anyone know a reference?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Right Valve cover no hose, leak at fuel filter...
IMG_20201016_121447490.jpg
IMG_20201014_122437967.jpg

Some cable (looks like from assembly above flywheel, maybe vacuum??) disconnected from carb...
 

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Looks like someone put an aftermarket carb and air cleaner on it. You’ll have to find which port on the carb should go to the PCV. The black breather should have a hose to the air cleaner. With these aftermarket items, you may have problems passing an emissions test.
 

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As stated above... and.....

PCV is ok, but the oil filler missing hose is not! Carb is probably too rich.. (???)

It won't pass emissions with that cheap air cleaner. Besides, it's a fire hazard if it ever back fires!

You need to find an original 440 breather with at least one snorkel. It will also have a valve in it for heated air off the left exhaust manifold.
That helps drivability. And it will have a port for the missing hose to the oil breather.

How strict are they in CO for an old vehicle like this??
 
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Can agree with all of this, but simplified, what you reference in your picture as PCV is a valve cover breather, the large nipple would attach to the stock air cleaner with a 5/8ths inch hose to suck blowby and oil fumes while running into the intake of the carburetor to burn them.

That disconnected cable is for the cruise control. The older systems used vacuum to control the speed when activated and if the diaphram gets a leak they tend to surge the speed, making them very annoying, so that is why it is most likely disconnected.

And the vacuum hose going from the distributor vacuum advance canister should be attached to the base of the carb, not the side of the carb. The location it is right now does not allow vacuum advance to occur when needed, or back off vacuum to prevent pinging. In other words, it doesn't have vacuum advance function right now. 440s (actually, all big blocks) like slow advance curves, slow enough that they don't even need vacuum advance, so it is kind of a tuning issue and may be fine where it is. At the same time, I don't know how serious the smog/safety inspection is in your area, but that is not the stock carburetor, it should be a Thermoquad instead of a vacuum secondary Holley (most likely a 780cfm).

As far as a manual for the engine and smog goes, you need one not specifically for the brand of van this is, but rather a 1977 Dodge truck/van book, which are usually together in the factory shop manual, or a Haynes/Chiltons manual, which may have a truck and van distinction covering the whole generation of the vehicle (so, for example Dodge and Plymouth van 1970 to 1978, or something like that). The engine and components remain the same, the 440 in 1977 was smogged/outfitted with the same components in whatever vehicle it went into in 1977, and the only exception might be something California added, just so they could be different.
 

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It does need vacuum advance, and there's also no way it will pass emissions inspection without if they bother to check hoses. Also check heat riser valve to make sure it works. Not an inspection thing, but if it's stuck closed you'll have real problems with boiling fuel in carb. Many of those had EGR by a couple of ports in the bottom of the intake under the carb. If it's one of those plug the ports. If you have problems with restart after it's run because the gas has boiled out of the carb an electric pump is the answer. That was a common problem from the early 70s on into the 80s on all engines.

Check the choke pull off and vacuum advance for leaking.

And one that's been sitting for a long time might have mechanical advance rusted, so check that as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
OK, I have the 440-1 Dodge Engine, need to pass emissions but want power in the mountains... Maybe I should go back to OEM carb and emissions parts as designed??? Or can this Holley carb be connected properly to pass Colorado emissions??? Was the "six-pack" carb good???
Currently here in Colorado I need to Fail a test, spend $715 on emissions compliance, Fail a second test, get wavier (not permanent)
 

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I wouldn't think that would be the best carb for your application. If one could find a good Thermoquad that would be ok. You might be farther ahead getting an Edelbrock intake and matching carb setup. They used to make a unit designed for RVs, but I'm sure they make something that'll work. Then you would get a brand new carb. Does CO have specific emissions levels, because in 77 this unit was basically except from stringent emissions because it was over 10,000 lbs GVW.
 

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One thing you do NOT want is a six pack. Things that will work: Edelbrock RV manifold and carb. Thorley tri-Y headers. Comp RV cam. Dual exhaust with crossover or X pipe connector. If it's on 16.5 wheels you'd do well to hunt up later model 16s before buying tires. Replace the ammeter with a voltmeter and run a 6 gauge wire from alternator output terminal to battery. That will take care of the most obvious trouble spots and actual improvements which work.
 
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