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· Super Moderator
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
17,631 Posts
Ditto on the write-up.
That is the purpose of slotted adjustable bolt-hole motor mount brackets for Right and Center mounts, the Left (transaxle) mount floats and doesn't need to be disturbed.
If a drone or growl is heard on sharp left or right turns at parking lot speeds, it may be engine vibration being transmitted into the vehicle body through a bottoming inner axle joint.
If the growl is on hard left turns, the eng/trans assembly is shifting to the right and an adjustment slightly towards the left side should center the assembly and cure the growl. You can go by the mount bracket washer circular 'witness' marks to see how far you have moved the assembly.
It is important to work on a hard level surface for the jack and jackstand not to tip. The rear parking brake and rear wheel must be chocked to prevent the possibility of rolling while you are underneath. Park gear doesn't work with a front wheel off the ground.
I have been able to swing the knuckle away from the axle by just removing the ball joint stub. The 2 strut-to-knuckle bolts can be left in place. This is important if an alignment cam bolt kit has been installed to set camber, otherwise mark the cam-to-strut position for reassembly. Push in on the knuckle before tightening the bolts as this will be similar to the weight of the car being on the cam bolt when the alignment adjustment was last set.
Unclip the ABS sensor wiring (if equipped) so it doesn't get yanked or strained when the knuckle is swung out of the way.
Many reman axles come with a new nut. The nut for non-cotter pin secured ones is compression edge-peened to keep it from loosening. The non-peened cotter pin-style nut probably shouldn't be used on a non-cotter pin hole axle joint.
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