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Discussion Starter #1
As I mentioned last week I bought a 89 Shelby Daytona TII. The car is exactly what I wanted.
So I drove the car a "got on it" a little and it stalled. I checked for fuel, Good. I checked for spark, looked weak and no spark at the plugs. So I changed the computer to one that I had and changed the rotor and it started right up. The rotor had a burn mark from an arc inside.
Without sounding to dumb,Here are my questions:
1. There is a manual Boost Control Valve and a BOV both TURBO XS. How do I know if they are set correctly? On my other Daytona's I was able to bring the boost and the RPM's all the way up. The way the engine is set up now it feels the engine cuts out and the BOV opens. The engine had mild performance cam (thats what the old owner said). I have the roller cam in case I want to put it back in.

2. There is also an air/fuel LED only display inside the car. One wire from a black box goes to the MAP sensor and the other wire goes to the O2 sensor. I know the three colors Red, Yellow, and green mean Rich, Lean and Ok. I cannot find any literature on this. I think it also has to do with the engine cutting out earlier. Also, can I chenge the LED to a LED Gauge?

3. There is also a MAP BY PASS adjustible switch (I think) installed because there is an informational sheet in the folder with the car. I am not sure about this.

I am not to good with the perfomance stuff so I need your help to figure it all out. So all comments are welcome!

Thanks all.....
 

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2) This is an owner add-on. You can rip it out or swap in a different type. It was no doubt installed to warn the owner if he was getting too much boost/running too lean, and to back off before it blows up. Progressing to yellow and red means leaner mixture.

3) This is a hack method that I would definitely remove. Usually people try to offset the MAP's output voltage and alter the mixture. This is a difficult and dangerous thing to do manually on the fly. It was probably put there to try to enrich the mixture if the boost gauge showed that the engine was running too lean.

Personally, I'd take these two features out. A computer can decide much better and faster what the mixture and boost should be. Doing it manually risks cooking the engine. If it leans out too much under boost, the engine can self-destruct really fast.

There are people running boost control valves who can advise you better on that. If adjusted right, there is little risk involved there.

Great to meet you at the show, glad you found a good car to enjoy. They are getting rare.

BTW, might be a good idea to replace the distributor cap and wires. Any arcing would mess them up.
 

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I agree, better to have a properly calibrated computer to control the boost than anything that will fool/trick the MAP sensor. Personally I'm a fan of the flashable computer sold by BoostButton.com. Not sure of the BOV you have, but if it's functioning correctly there should be very little adjustment needed, the boost pressure into it from the vacuum line "should" be an equal force holding it closed relative to the boost pressure in the induction hose trying to open it, the forces should cancel each other out. If you think it's misbehaving try disassembling it and cleaning it all out, could be gummed up, or even scored (time for a replacement).

If you want to leave the narrow band gauge in there it won't hurt anything, but a wideband is always much more useful.

What are the plans for the car, nice running stock, or gonna push it harder?

If you need help, I'm only about 30 minutes away.

What computer was in it, and what computer did you swap into it?

Also, I'd get in there and check the numbers on all the injectors (which may have been changed) just so you know what you're working with.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
UPDATE:
So I traced the wires to the LED Air/Fuel display. The 2 wires only go to the O2 sensor NOT the MAP. Good or Bad??

The MAP BY PASS Adjustible switch is a black box with one wire to ground and the other to the MAP wire. From Forward Motion. Their sheet said it will possibly raise the boost to 18psi. I don't understand it :(.

I put back the original stock computer that came with the car. I thought that might have been an issue and it worked fine. So overall the burnt rotor was probably the main reason it stalled. FYI The other computer I put in just to get it started was a stock computer. Funny thing is the difference between the 2 computers I have is basically the production date of the car. Before and after 10/6/1988.
The car does have an MSD Coil. I do have the performance computer. The previous owner said the car ran better on the stock one so he put it back in.

I am looking for the car to run well mostly stock or just above. I am not looking to race the car.

ChargedDust, I will email you. I definitly will want to get together.

As far as injectors they are +20%. P4532176.

I still don't know much about the manual boost cintroller. How to adjust etc.

Thanks again....
 

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The new description of the wiring for the LED sounds more proper, still has limited usefulness. If you have the larger injectors I gotta believe that the p.o. Was doing something to try to take advantage of those, which is probably what the MAP thing is for. Me, I wouldn't trust it, not to say it can't/doesn't work, just that I've seen too many d.i.y. tricks done improperly that I don't trust anyone else's work.

Do you have the part numbers for the computers you have, if the car runs better with the stock computer and +20s something sounds fishy. On the lighter side, sounds like you only need a 3 bar MAP and a proper cal and you can push 18-20 psi if you want - which is a real hoot compared to the stock 12.

Manual boost controllers come in a variety of styles, grab a picture of it and post it, someone will know what it is.

BTY is the car giving you any codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
DCTZ - Yes it is! Mine has 4-LED's. I am trying to post pictures but I am having no luck. Any advice?

We are on Long Island.

ChargedDust - Part # 5234553 is the SMEC in the car. My production date is 9/88.
i also have a 5235069 which is the SMEC for after 10/6/88.
Don't know what the difference was.

I know the cam is a performnce one. The P.O. said it is a mild lift. I am trying to get more info on that. He said to get more vacuum and idle better to put back in the roller cam and lifters.

Thanks

2) This is an owner add-on. You can rip it out or swap in a different type. It was no doubt installed to warn the owner if he was getting too much boost/running too lean, and to back off before it blows up. Progressing to yellow and red means leaner mixture.

3) This is a hack method that I would definitely remove. Usually people try to offset the MAP's output voltage and alter the mixture. This is a difficult and dangerous thing to do manually on the fly. It was probably put there to try to enrich the mixture if the boost gauge showed that the engine was running too lean.

Personally, I'd take these two features out. A computer can decide much better and faster what the mixture and boost should be. Doing it manually risks cooking the engine. If it leans out too much under boost, the engine can self-destruct really fast.

There are people running boost control valves who can advise you better on that. If adjusted right, there is little risk involved there.

Great to meet you at the show, glad you found a good car to enjoy. They are getting rare.

BTW, might be a good idea to replace the distributor cap and wires. Any arcing would mess them up.
Thanks Bob. It was great meeting you also.
Hope to see you soon..
 

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5235069 is the stock '89 2.2L T2 M/T FED.

5234553 Turbo 11, Man. Trans. (Up To 10-6-88), is the stock T2 computer for a LeBaron, so neither of them are performance computers, nor are they calibrated for +20 injectors. Seems like a good time to send the Lebaron computer in and have it converted to being flashable.... http://www.boostbutton.com/catalog/

There is a chance that the board inside has been modified, or may not be the match to the outer case, take the screws off the case and check the number on the chip on the board, the chip has a sticker with a 3 digit number that corresponds to the last three numbers of the part number.





Now that the P.O. says to put back the roller cam and lifters sort of implies that the cam in there may be the non-roller version with the iron followers. I'm not the one to be asking about cams, but I think that maybe that those iron follower cams are geared more full out racing engines, maybe start another thread asking for specifics on those cams, might be better off with the original cam back in there.

BTW, if you pull the V.C. off don't use the Fel-Pro replacement gaskets, get the victor-reinz ones, or the ROL ones if you can find them.

These are the rotors I mentioned... KEMPARTS Part # 1829X
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ChargedDust: As far as the computer numbers I looked in my parts book from 89 and it does list the numbers I mentoned for the Daytona. When I put the 069 computer in the Air/Fuel LED (dawes device) has a red light. So I left the original one in the car.
I will look into a 3-Bar Map and the flashable computer once I find about this P4532132 computer I have.
Good talking with you.
Also are KEMPARTS cap and wires good?
Thanks
 

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Don't know about other parts, I use Taylor wires and any cap should be fine. I'll see if I can find anything on that computer also. But keep in mind that if you have +20 injectors and you're getting a light on the Dawes, then P.O. has probably tweaked the fuel pressure, good idea to find out where that is set before messing with things.

http://www.turbododg...n-question.html

http://www.turbododg...ter-part-s.html

Oh, and if you want to go with a vacuum block...

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/363281-installing-vacuum-blocks-84-93-turbo.html
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The car is running well. The Dawes lights are off at idle and sometimes flip Red to Yellow. While driving it does go to Green and even Blue. Not sure what Blue is for. I 3rd gear had the Boost up to 14 and the car responded well. I am getting used to it, Lol. I do need a window track 4467214. I heard a clunk in the drivers door and then the window didint move. Oh well. I changed plenty of these before. Anyone have a new track? I have an old one but don't want to se it.
 

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I have one if you need one on short notice, but they do have them in the help section at many auto parts stores.

The new tracks are packaged curled up, so they have a set to them. Before installing a new one, get the biggest pot you have, fill it with water and boil it. Then stretch the track out and submerge it in the water, that will soften it up a bit and let you straighten it out, will also relieve any stress concentrations from sitting curled up so long. Also makes it easier to install if it isn't constantly trying to curl up on you.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks, I am getting one from my old dealer for the same price. Actually getting 2.
You never know when the other one will go.
 

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Which dealer do you go to, they all suck around here, but I've never tried Westbury. Garden city is o.k. If you just need to look up stuff, they have nothing, and won't get it for you, but they will run a parts locator and steer you in the right direction.

I've actually ordered stuff from my old dealership in Yonkers, parts guys are all different, none of them know me, but if say order it, they say sure - if its available. But then I gotta pay gas & tolls to go to Yonkers.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have worked in a few dealers and the one that I still keep in touch with and are great guys are at Port Jeff Chrysler. Dicky is a goo roo for 40 years and Matt or Bobby I also have known for 20+ years. Tell them you know me.
 

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I bought something there once. I've also met Matt, he still has that blue Daytona he wants to sell. It's automatic so it's not for me, and he want more than I want to spend, but I know he put money into that car.
 

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Find out anything new?
 
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