1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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17,587 Posts
1995 AS had the 2.5L OHC 4-cyl, the Mitsu 3.0L OHC or 3.3L/3.8L OHV engines availible in them.
This is an old thread.
This is an old thread.
Posts by ImperialCrown
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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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17,587 Posts
Welcome to Allpar. I would pay attention to a fault code that isn't there after a 'ck eng' light coming on.
If the PCM has lost the code, a good scan tool should tell you how many starts have occurred since the PCM was reset. If it is only a couple of starts or you get 'Battery recently disconnected' codes from the TCM or other modules, then you may want to look for an interruption of battery (+) power to the modules. This may be a wiring harness, PDC or connector issue, but it might also be an internal PCM problem. An interruption of battery power will erase code memory.
We have sometimes asked people with a lit 'ck eng' light not to turn the engine off until they could get to a facility that has a scan tool to see what is or isn't there. Due to the difficulty of diagnosing something like this, it is best if you can catch it live or look for clues left behind.
If the PCM has lost the code, a good scan tool should tell you how many starts have occurred since the PCM was reset. If it is only a couple of starts or you get 'Battery recently disconnected' codes from the TCM or other modules, then you may want to look for an interruption of battery (+) power to the modules. This may be a wiring harness, PDC or connector issue, but it might also be an internal PCM problem. An interruption of battery power will erase code memory.
We have sometimes asked people with a lit 'ck eng' light not to turn the engine off until they could get to a facility that has a scan tool to see what is or isn't there. Due to the difficulty of diagnosing something like this, it is best if you can catch it live or look for clues left behind.
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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17,587 Posts
The stalling and 1st gear ratio error (P0731) may not be related and would be concerning 2 separate control modules.
At the shop, it may have to 'act up' in order to have something for the technician to look for. Being intermittent, it may need a data recorder set up installed and the vehicle driven until it does act up.
The generic Autozone OBD II code reader may not have been able to get the details of the TCM fault code.
At the shop, it may have to 'act up' in order to have something for the technician to look for. Being intermittent, it may need a data recorder set up installed and the vehicle driven until it does act up.
The generic Autozone OBD II code reader may not have been able to get the details of the TCM fault code.
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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17,587 Posts
Even if the 'ck eng' light goes out, the fault code should be stored for awhile. It just means that the fault code is no longer active. Try the 'key dance':
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/index.html
While it is possible for a 1995 cluster circuit board to have fractured solder joints and bad connections, I believe that it was the later generations that had 'no start' issues from it.
Look for fracture 'rings' around the through-hole pins in the board here:
0.jpg
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/index.html
While it is possible for a 1995 cluster circuit board to have fractured solder joints and bad connections, I believe that it was the later generations that had 'no start' issues from it.
Look for fracture 'rings' around the through-hole pins in the board here:
0.jpg
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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17,587 Posts
Tell us what you have found. We can't try to help you don't share it with us.
I have reviewed this thread and still think that you need to continue diagnosis to find the problem. The stalling and transaxle code should be treated as 2 separate problems until we know more.
This may entail more than you can do with a 'driveway-type' diagnosis and you still might want to consider a data recording of the stall/limp-in event to help see what the PCM/TCM are seeing when the 'stall/limp-in' problem occurs. Of course it will have to act up for this. Many shops will hold a repair order open and let you take the recorder out until you can get an 'event' recording for them and then return to the shop for recording analysis.
Test equipment can be attached to the engine diagnostic connector and other underhood electrical parts for monitoring things. The connecting cables can be long enough to reach the windshield where it can be held under a wiper blade (in good weather) for viewing or brought inside the vehicle where you can view them. Usually it is good to have a helper along as the driver needs to keep their eyes on the road.
Stop replacing parts and cleaning things as this hasn't fixed anything yet and probably isn't the problem. An engine compartment wiring harness rub-though or connection-break can still happen and can be intermittent and new parts won't fix it. Have you been able to rule out a cluster solder break?
I don't know what 'steamed' when you were sea-foaming that time. An intake manifold vacuum leak will give you a fast idle, so I'm pretty sure that wasn't it. Sea Foam can damage an engine if used excessively.
A plugged EGR won't cause stalling, but a stuck-open EGR might. You can take the 'vacuum part' of the EGR out of the picture by disconnecting and plugging the transducer vacuum inlet vacuum hose and road testing the vehicle. A mechanically stuck open EGR is possible, I have seen the pintle burnt off or missing. You shouldn't be able to blow through it with it off the vehicle. If you can, replace it. If not, then it probably isn't the issue.
If it stalls out at speed, them the EGR and IAC probably aren't the problem. You have to determine if you are losing spark or fuel. Remember that an electrical loss can cause 'no fuel' if it causes the injectors to stay closed.
A factory service manual will list 'possible causes' of stalling and P0731 for you to continue diagnosis. Again without a scan tool you will be limited on the tasks that you might need to perform. You might be able to get by without one and do manual tests. It will probably take longer to do, so don't get frustrated. Take frequent breaks, have refreshment and listen to music, etc.
Chiltons or Haynes can be pretty much useless and even wrong about certain things. Don't use them for this level of service. Factory service manuals are the way to go.
Find someone more helpful than the guy at Autozone. While these guys can't diagnose a vehicle for you, most will give a printout of what the scan tool has seen. A PCM, TCM or scan tool can't see everything and there is a section in the service manual for issues that don't set fault codes called 'no code' tests.
I have reviewed this thread and still think that you need to continue diagnosis to find the problem. The stalling and transaxle code should be treated as 2 separate problems until we know more.
This may entail more than you can do with a 'driveway-type' diagnosis and you still might want to consider a data recording of the stall/limp-in event to help see what the PCM/TCM are seeing when the 'stall/limp-in' problem occurs. Of course it will have to act up for this. Many shops will hold a repair order open and let you take the recorder out until you can get an 'event' recording for them and then return to the shop for recording analysis.
Test equipment can be attached to the engine diagnostic connector and other underhood electrical parts for monitoring things. The connecting cables can be long enough to reach the windshield where it can be held under a wiper blade (in good weather) for viewing or brought inside the vehicle where you can view them. Usually it is good to have a helper along as the driver needs to keep their eyes on the road.
Stop replacing parts and cleaning things as this hasn't fixed anything yet and probably isn't the problem. An engine compartment wiring harness rub-though or connection-break can still happen and can be intermittent and new parts won't fix it. Have you been able to rule out a cluster solder break?
I don't know what 'steamed' when you were sea-foaming that time. An intake manifold vacuum leak will give you a fast idle, so I'm pretty sure that wasn't it. Sea Foam can damage an engine if used excessively.
A plugged EGR won't cause stalling, but a stuck-open EGR might. You can take the 'vacuum part' of the EGR out of the picture by disconnecting and plugging the transducer vacuum inlet vacuum hose and road testing the vehicle. A mechanically stuck open EGR is possible, I have seen the pintle burnt off or missing. You shouldn't be able to blow through it with it off the vehicle. If you can, replace it. If not, then it probably isn't the issue.
If it stalls out at speed, them the EGR and IAC probably aren't the problem. You have to determine if you are losing spark or fuel. Remember that an electrical loss can cause 'no fuel' if it causes the injectors to stay closed.
A factory service manual will list 'possible causes' of stalling and P0731 for you to continue diagnosis. Again without a scan tool you will be limited on the tasks that you might need to perform. You might be able to get by without one and do manual tests. It will probably take longer to do, so don't get frustrated. Take frequent breaks, have refreshment and listen to music, etc.
Chiltons or Haynes can be pretty much useless and even wrong about certain things. Don't use them for this level of service. Factory service manuals are the way to go.
Find someone more helpful than the guy at Autozone. While these guys can't diagnose a vehicle for you, most will give a printout of what the scan tool has seen. A PCM, TCM or scan tool can't see everything and there is a section in the service manual for issues that don't set fault codes called 'no code' tests.
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