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I've recently bought a 2003 2.4 5 speed, it ran fine the first day , then went into a (limp mode) ? it wouldnt go over 2500 rpm's then drop to nothing, but could be driven home ,shuddering up & down , had a buddy check codes & had PO335 & PO340 ,it was a weekend , & im 40 miles to town , so i used a 05 & 01 that ran as parts, both wrecked & automatics ( cam sen. & magnet only ) between changing parts it no longer runs , & no fire at the plugs, what am i missing?
 

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Welcome to Allpar. Parts from older vehicles with the SBEC PCM controller (2001) may not work with the newer NGC style PCM controller. You need to replace with correct OEM parts. It is not a good idea to mix and match engine sensors between these years. The cam and crank sensors and signal tooth counts were different.
There is a TSB # 18-026-03A that addresses no-start/ck eng light for fault codes P0335 and P0340 for (early 2003) vehicles built before 9/25/02. Confirm that this bulletin has been performed if your car is eligible before performing further diagnosis:
http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/neontsbs/2003/18-026-03.pdf
Use only OEM cam and crank sensors if they prove to be failing.
There is also a TSB # 08-008-04 for a spark plug type change on 2.4L engines:
http://m.chrysler.oemdtc.com/TSB/08-008-04.pdf
 

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the part numbers for a 2004 and a 2006 are: cam magnet- 05293199AA -------- cam sensor- 05093508AA. If your CRANKshaft sensor is located under the starter, these should be the right numbers. The magnet screw torque is 32 in lbs. Be gentle. The 01 and 02 engines used a different system and some of the parts will not interchange. The 2005 magnet and sensor should work. I've had good luck with the factory plug wires. Plug type: Champion - RE16MC gapped at .040.
 

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. . . . I thought the 335 & 340 were cam sensor is one a crank sensor ? . . . .
P0355 -- No crankshaft position sensor signal present.
P0340 -- No camshaft position sensor signal present.

Both of these sensors share a common 5 volt supply from the PCM (powertrain control module). Check the wiring from the PCM, connector C2, pin 29, orange wire to each sensor.
 

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Is a spacer required when installed a crank or cam sensor on this engine?
 

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No spacers.
Has this car ever had a timing belt/water pump replacement? After 14 years, it may be due.
Follow the diagnostic 'Possible Causes' on p. 135 and 144 here:
http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service Manuals/2004_PL_Neon/18623-pl-powertrain_sgmldiag.pdf
A wiring diagram and connector pinouts are at the rear of the book.
Note that an intermittent signal from one can generate a fault code for the other.
A good OBD2 scan tool should show you which sensor signal is present and which one is not during cranking.
 

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. . . . Note that an intermittent signal from one can generate a fault code for the other.
A good OBD2 scan tool should show you which sensor signal is present and which one is not during cranking . . . . .
A quick and easy way for a novice to determine if the crankshaft position sensor signal is present is to listen for the sound of the electric fuel pump running. You have to be in an area with little outside noise and no interior noise (turn off radio, fasten seat belt, etc). Turn ignition switch to the RUN position but NO start. You should hear the electric fuel pump power up for 1 - 2 seconds and then stop. If you hear the pump engage for a few seconds then turn the ignition switch to the START position and engage the starter for 5 seconds. Release the ignition switch and return to the RUN position. You should hear the fuel pump continue to run for 1 - 2 seconds. If this happens then you know the crank position sensor is generating a signal and sending it to the PCM. The PCM will not engage the electric fuel pump unless a crankshaft position sensor signal is present.
 

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Find the common wire these sensors use and you will find the problem.
 

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I know you have those specific codes but I encountered the same symptoms when my tranny computer took a dump last year. Perhaps it's just the "limp home" effect.
 

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I'm still having trouble figuring out how a manual shift can go into "limp mode". Can anyone explain that to me? Is there a rev limiter involved somehow?
 
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