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Hi. Please advise. Ok, I have 254954 miles on my caravan and everything on the front end regarding suspension has been replaced. Struts, mounts, sway bar links, sway bar bushings, outer tie rods, inner tie rods, cx axles, lower control arms, did I miss anything?
However, it was just this last week when I had finally had the drivers side cx axle replaced. The mechanic who replaced it has a few dodge grand caravans but not a 2011 like mine with touring suspension. Ok, I am usually always right over the shoulder of anyone working on my van if I am not doing the work myself. That is unless I am not allowed to be there. This mechanic works from his home though and I know him pretty well as he works on Dodge Caravans taxis all of the time.

When he removed my cx axle, he placed it next to the one that he would be installing into mine, and I noticed that the output shaft enclosure appeared to be a little shorter in length that the one that came out. I asked him about it and he sort of blew me off and said that it was because mine was messed up and the other one was new. The reason I replaced it anyway was because of the ticking noise that it was making and I recognized the noise from when I had to replace the passenger side axle. Because I trust him, I did not press the issue.

After about a day, I noticed a new noise and it was hard to pinpoint where it was coming from but it sound like it was coming from the right side and sounded like a popping noise that happened when I when over small bumps going slow and when I moved the steering wheel to the right or back and forth. So, yesterday when I went back there, and mind you this is before I had actually ever had replaced the outer tie rods. He put it up on a jack and showed me where there was some slight play in the the inner tie rods where it goes into the side of the the transmission or rack and pinion. It was not leaking and boots look good on both sides. But, because there was some slight play, he convinced me to replace both sides inner tie rods.

After doing this, when i went for a drive, the noise was exactly the same and especially coming from the passenger side front end, a popping noise very noticeable. So, I go back and I drive it up on the ramps and he tells me that suspension noises are hard to find but, crawls under the front end and tightens up suspension hardware. While he was under there, I got the notion to move the steering wheel back and forth and I heard this noisy popping like noise similar to what I hear while driving but not quite the same. So, he had e crawl under and place my hand on the inner tie rod so that I could feel the play while he moved the wheel back and forth. Then he tells me that I needed to replace my rack and pinion.

But, I had just spent the money on the inner tie rods and the rack and pinion comes with the tie rods. Anyway, I have spent money unnecessarily several times on repairs that did not fix the problem and I sick of doing that. Although, the mechanic counted the turns when installing the inner tie rods yesterday, I know I still have to have it aligned. The noise showed up after the Cv axle was replaced.

My question is, could he have installed the wrong cx axle?
Could the steering angle with regards to the rack and pinion been changed?
Are there any differences between the year models of the dodge caravan related to the cv axle?
Does the touring suspension require a unique cx axle?
Are there adjustments that can be made on the output shaft that can be done to compensate?
Could the noise be from misalignment?

I replaced the power steering fluid as I have done at least 2 or 3 other times before.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
By the way, When replacing the cvaxles or the inner tie rods, there was no changing out of any bushings. Should there have been?
 

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The Half shaft could of been rebuilt with a different manufactures CV joint but is compatible for the application. I would compare the length, both ends are the same on each half shaft, and make sure what seals against the seal is the correct size so your not leaking trans fluid.
The half shafts should be the same. Touring suspension is just that. Different spring rates and different dampening on the shocks.
It could be a CV joint clicking or something was disturbed during disassembly/ reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The Half shaft could of been rebuilt with a different manufactures CV joint but is compatible for the application. I would compare the length, both ends are the same on each half shaft, and make sure what seals against the seal is the correct size so your not leaking trans fluid.
The half shafts should be the same. Touring suspension is just that. Different spring rates and different dampening on the shocks.
It could be a CV joint clicking or something was disturbed during disassembly/ reassembly.
Thank you for responding I appreciate your help. However, I did not say it was clicking noise. It is a popping noise coming from now the right side so it seems and the cv axle replaced that is question was on the drivers side. the popping noise is erratic and happens during steering or just barely moving or driving straight going slow going fast small bumps, etc. It sounds like a shock being loose. but, I do not have shocks I have struts and they are less than 6 months old
 

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Even though I have seen CV shafts boxed wrong, do you have a brand name and part #?
Could it be wrong? Sure, you mentioned that it had a different appearance than the original shaft that came out of it. There should be no problem having the parts counter double-check their listing, open up a new boxed one to look at and compare them. If it does turn out to be the wrong one, there should be no problem turning it in under warranty.
The popping is likely from something being loose or worn. The noise should be easy to locate with a 2nd person working the steering wheel while the tech feels around for the 'pop' source.
If the noise wasn't there before the service, then I would think that it has to be related to what was done.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Even though I have seen CV shafts boxed wrong, do you have a brand name and part #?
Could it be wrong? Sure, you mentioned that it had a different appearance than the original shaft that came out of it. There should be no problem having the parts counter double-check their listing, open up a new boxed one to look at and compare them. If it does turn out to be the wrong one, there should be no problem turning it in under warranty.
The popping is likely from something being loose or worn. The noise should be easy to locate with a 2nd person working the steering wheel while the tech feels around for the 'pop' source.
If the noise wasn't there before the service, then I would think that it has to be related to what was done.
In a normal scenario, you are right and the part should be verified. The part was supplied by the mechanic and I saw it and it looked new, not in box. I did get inside and move the steering wheel and he said it was the rack and pinion after he had just replaced my inner tie rods. I put my hand on the tie rod and yes there is noise when the sterring is moved but, there should be some movement I thought. Do you have a picture of the cv axle in the real, not in the figure as shown on moparonline or similiar?
 

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I see a generic left axle # 139232 (CH-8232). It shows that it fits 2008-2014 T&C and Grand Caravans.
If you got a job receipt of the work performed, see if an axle is charged out in the parts column? It may be under a different part number.
Looks like:
s-l1600.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I see a generic left axle # 139232 (CH-8232). It shows that it fits 2008-2014 T&C and Grand Caravans.
If you got a job receipt of the work performed, see if an axle is charged out in the parts column? It may be under a different part number.
Looks like:
s-l1600.jpg
I see a generic left axle # 139232 (CH-8232). It shows that it fits 2008-2014 T&C and Grand Caravans.
If you got a job receipt of the work performed, see if an axle is charged out in the parts column? It may be under a different part number.
Looks like:
s-l1600.jpg
Thank you for the pic. It did look like this but I did not measure it and there is no receipt but I know he replaced it because I saw him replace it. Does the engine need to be centered after the axle shaft is replaced?
 

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It means lateral alignment of the engine in its mounts, as measured by the axle lengths at certain points. Described in the article above.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It means lateral alignment of the engine in its mounts, as measured by the axle lengths at certain points. Described in the article above.
I did go to get wheel alilgnment this morning. since i replaced the inner tie rods. I asked mechanic about centering the engine and he says he has never done that in 54 years. I will print out the article in link you provided and find someone to do it. I appreciate the information.

The popping noise still exist. Mechanic said it he believes the sway bar links have failed even though i had just replaced them November 2015. But i did not get the factory ones. I just picked them up at dealership but these look whimpy. I am also uploading a video that has the noise to youtube. Waiting on it to upload.
 

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FWD Chrysler products have NOT been around for 54 years. Your mechanic may not have educated himself. FSM always says to center the engine when replacing mounts or axles.
 

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I've never had a van that new, but I did put sway bar links on my 1999 van only to have the noise return not too long after. In that case, all I had to do was retighten the nuts/bolts on the link and all was fine. I used a torque wrench both times. The first time they loosened up, the second time I torqued them down they never made noise again.
 

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Taxigirl; If the replacement axle is the same as the original axle and if the vehicle was never in an accident and if the engine or engine mounts were never changed or moved, then the lateral adjustment would not be required. Also, with the different shaft combinations over the years, it is possible the remanufacturer could have boxed it wrong. That said, I would still check the side to side position of your engine.

This applies to PT Cruisers and others. Not sure about yours. There is an fore/aft adjustment of the motor mount STRUT which positions the transaxle halfshafts properly in relation to the outer hubs. If not adjusted properly, the halfshafts will be out of alignment an might possibly hit or scrape frame mounted stuff.

If you can make the car make the noise, a stethoscope is your best friend.


I don't know how to delete the line!!!!
 

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To delete a line, you simply move your icon to one end of the other, click it once and hold it down then run it over what you need to delete. Then, release the button on your mouse and hit the delete button! It's really easy because if an old brain damaged man like me can do it, then I KNOW you can.
 

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If all measurements and dimensions remained the same between the old axle and the new axle, the engine/transaxle shouldn't need re-centering.
If a replacement axle is too long or too short (i.e.- the wrong part), it will cause problems. By moving the engine/transaxle to the left or right may stop a metal-to-metal mount contact that would introduce noise into the body.
The source of the popping noise must be located, identified and resolved. If you can make the noise with the vehicle sitting still and engine off, it should be easy to find.
 
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