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Discussion Starter #1
I came across something someone wrote where you can take the timing cover off without needing to pull the flywheel (harmonic balancer pulley). Is that true for the 300m? If its true, then the only reason I'd pull the flywheel is to change the front crankshaft seal (do I need any special tools to replace it?).

Is there a seal or something on the timing cover for the crankshaft?
 

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Are you talking about a Facebook thread I commented on by any chance?

I've done the change 3x on 3.5 engines. 1 JS, 2 LH. On the JS, I could *NOT* get the belt around the larger/different crank pulley (the JS has just 1 serpentine belt vs the LH's serp and V-belt combo, and the pulley is closer to the crank cover as a result). I would strongly advise using the puller. Any auto chain store will loan you one and you get a full refund on return. Otherwise, you will need to twist the belt very tightly to get around the pulley and it is a huge pain.

Seriously, the 30m running to the auto store to get it, and 30m returning (it's 5 for me but the store is not even 2mi away) is easily an hour you'll save screwing with getting the belt around the pulley the first time you go to do it.

Piece of advice: Back out just 1 of the timing cover bolts behind the cam gear on each side to prevent the cams from turning after you cut the old belt off. Because they WILL move on you. No matter how hard you try not to.
 
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Also: There is a crank seal, behind the cam timing gear; removing the harmonic balancer will not harm this seal and you would not need to replace it. Re-reading your post makes it sound like you may not know this. The timing gear set is completely isolated from the engine lubricating system, and although it drives the water pump, it's also not in the coolant system either.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The balancer is mounted to the crankshaft - yes? There would be a seal (I guess in the block?) for the crankshaft behind the balancer - yes? This is what they call the front crankshaft seal? I've come across comments that say that you might as well change that seal if you're doing the timing belt. Unless it's a PITA to remove, or needs special tools, etc.

How is the cam timing gear related to the crankshaft? The cam timing gear is the toothed wheel driven by the timing belt - yes? You normally don't remove that - I hear it's a PITA to remove it, and the only reason you'd remove it is to replace the cam shaft seal - yes?
 

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There are 3 gears. 1 on each cam, and 1 on the crank. To replace the crank seal you would need to pull the cam gear off the crank, after pulling the balancer.

The seal isn't behind the balancer. It's behind the cam gear that's behind the balancer. Read the FSM,
http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service Manuals/2000_LH_LHS_300M_Concorde_Intrepid/ELH_9.PDF
Page 122, starts with removing the timing belt covers

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL—FRONT is on page 128 and shows how to remove the timing gear sprocket from the crank to access the seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok so it looks like too many special tools needed to change front crank oil seal. In Fig. 106 - is there a thread on the oil seal that tool 6431 is engaging with and is used to pull the seal out?

Out of curiosity - is the crank sprocket keyed?
 

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The crank sprocket is indexed by a dowel and press-fit on the crank nose, hence the need for a puller. It has to be punched out of the crank to continue the service.
Best to get the cooling fans and radiator out of the way for more room. You don't want to bump or damage the radiator core.
The seal remover tool 'screws' into the soft lip portion of the seal and pulls it out. The installation tool mates with the reinforced outer edge of the seal to press it in.
Refer to p. 9-48 here:
http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/...H_300M_Concorde_Intrepid/19071-lh_intlpdf.pdf
 

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I agree, if all you're doing is the timing belt leave the radiator in (pull the fans) but if you want to do the seal as well, pull the radiator. You might need to remove the condenser as well, I don't recall if they're attached or if it's easy to get to the radiator out without removing the condenser as well.
 
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