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Discussion Starter #1
PT Cruiser Power Steering Pump Replacement.

Before beginning this work I was given a 24 step outline of the work from a professional mechanic friend and found the procedure way way tooo complicated, so here’s the short easy way.

I decided from past experience to buy a new PS pump pulley and have it pressed on the replacement pump, at local NAPA store. (Removing pressed on pulleys is shop procedure, and my garage is not so equipped.) I would advise this for a fast and un-complicated adventure.

To begin with, this pump can't hardly be seen. So I decided to drain the coolant at the radiator lower petcock and remove the radiator fan for working clearance. I had already removed the outer pump fanbelt, grill (4 ea 7mm) and upper radiator support that has the hood latch attached (6 ea 10mm). This allows the radiator/condenser to be tilted 3-5” at the top for even more working room. A must!!

I found that the pump is sandwiched between 2 mounting plates. By removing the 3ea 12 mm pump mounting bolts and the 2 ea 15 mm rear plate bolts, the pump was loose. The front plate need not be removed.

It was decided to leave the top hose, which was attached to the now drained reservoir, attached to the pump since the stupid hose clamp atop the pump was reversed and not accessible.( Be ready for leakage when removing this hose from the bottom of the reservoir BTW. :))

After the loosening of the pressurized line attached to the bottom (18mm), which was the hardest activity, the pump withdrew somewhat? easily past the ac hoses.

In my case, I also changed the high pressure line at the bottom of the pump which required removing the 18 mm fitting from the rack and pinion. (This line had developed a pinhole leak which was the case of the work). There’s not a lot of room for this work, patience is required here.

Installation is the reverse of above? (I love that statement.)

If you’d like my DIY step by step pictures of this adventure, drop me line and I’ll be happy to send them along. In the end it wasn’t as hard as I envisioned it to be.

Best Regards,

Tim (Mr2Tim)
SupercharZed ToyZ Race Team
A Toyota Race Team since 1986
 

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Thanks. Haven't had to do this yet, but I have a lot of miles on this car; so it is certainly a possibility.
 

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It looks like I may be having to do this on my '08 PT. Just Thursday night after a stop at the local Waffle House, I got in the car and immediately had trouble with the steering as I backed out of the parking spot. Once the car is moving, it's not that noticeable. But, at a stop, it takes both hands and some muscle to turn the wheel.

OR, could it be something else other than the pump?

BUT, if it is the pump, how much time would be required for someone with some auto repair experience?
 

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Yes, the belt is in good shape and tight.

The pulley is spinning just fine. No undue noises NOW. However, a few days ago, I did detect some odd noise and couldn't figure out where it may have been coming from. It seemed to develop as I accelerated from a stop. The reservoir did get low.

I'm pretty sure I need a new power steering pump.
 

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Got far enough into this job and discovered that the tensioner is locked up with some of the back of the belt melded to it. I lost the belt half-way though my work shift last night. Just prior to this, I actually got some power steering back for about 5 minutes and then it went completely kaput. Without the belt, the steering is really, really tough...even on the highway.

And, just prior to the belt breaking, I, again, saw that the power steering pulley was moving without any problem.

Keep in mind, if you're not already aware, I'm clinically deaf. So, if there was any kind of high pitch whine, I never heard it and it was never brought to my attention if there was. My son definitely would have heard it whenever I would pull into the driveway and he never mentioned it.

One problem now is that there is so much of the belt strands stuck around everything, and everything is so close and tight, it's kind of difficult getting it all removed.

Can just the pulley on the tensioner be replaced without pulling the entire unit....just remove the bolt holding the pulley on?
 

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A pulley like this can be replaced fairly easily:
mxelal09a_alternator.jpg
Bring the old one in to your parts store to match it up.

A pulley on the end of a tensioner arm is best with the whole assembly (generally it's worth replacing the whole assembly for fresh spring tension and fresh pivot bushing that can cause problems with age). Like this:
main.JPG
 

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ImperialCrown said:
A pulley like this can be replaced fairly easily:
mxelal09a_alternator.jpg
Bring the old one in to your parts store to match it up.

A pulley on the end of a tensioner arm is best with the whole assembly (generally it's worth replacing the whole assembly for fresh spring tension and fresh pivot bushing that can cause problems with age). Like this:
main.JPG
Yes, the very reason I asked if the whole thing should be replaced. I had a '99 Tracker that I had to replace the tensioner at least 3 times while I owned it. Each time, I had to replace the entire assembly due to how the arm would get out of alignment and cause the belt to gradually move off the track...and then get thrown clean off.

At this time, I simply replaced the tensioner pulley only. I've done a good bit of driving so far and, so far, so good.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well LT looked like you lucked out. Well kinda.

To answer the time it took to R&R just the pump was about 3-4 hrs once I got the radiator out and the wheel off.
(Dealer pricing was $500)

It took about a little over 2 hrs to R&R the high pressure hose which was the defective item that started this whole repair.
(Dealer priced at $295)

As a experienced hobby mechanic I did take longer to detail/clean all the parts I touch and very closely inspect all nearby parts while the lower cover was off.

Next I'm seriously looking forward to performing a timing belt replacement,w tensioner, water pump on the 01 car. My target will be 10 hrs. :)
(Dealer priced at $2600)

Winter is South Florida averages 77F and a lovely time to be a hobby mechanic !!

Happy New Year guys,

Mister2 Tim
SupercharZed ToyZ
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It's been my experience to automatically replace the water pump while you have a timing belt off the car. Actually, if I can get the crankshaft pulley off and the timing gear as well I'll do the cheap front crankshaft oil seal at the same time. (A 4 cyl Toyota habit)

As for pulling an engine? Well, Una to be honest I'd rather not for this some what simple front of engine operation. For me, as a hobby mechanic, it's just too much hassle. Clutch? Piston rings, bearings sure.
Secondly, going to the yard for a used pump seems again questionable. Why do this complicated job twice with a used pump when for just $53.79 you can buy one at Rockauto just one time.?

Don't get me wrong Una, I raced with used tires when I was raising 3 kids so that's not my issue here. It's doing a hard complicated job and maybe having to do it again next week to save $20?? And maybe doing that hard complicated job getting the part off the parts car too
?

But hey, this America land of the free. It's your car, you DO get to make the calls.

Mister2 Tim
SupercharZed ToyZ RacZing
A Toyota Race Team since 1986
 

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I've got an '03 GT and appreciate the info. I will try to remove the pump bolts and then the pressure fitting, which is what it seems like you did. I also could use the guide and pics if available as well, thanks. This has been a bear for me especially with the shop manual's usual advice to "remove fitting".
 

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Can I drive my 2004 pt cruiser after removing the power steering pump , so I can move it in out of the garage.
For something short like that, it shouldn't be a problem, but even with the pump removed, you may squirt fluid out of the steering rack as it moves, especially if you turn the steering wheel.
 

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Yep, I agree with Mark. Just get ready to get your stay dry or cat litter out and some cleaning supplies.
 

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If you slide a drain pan under the car and turn the steering wheel left-to-right (lock-to-lock), it will catch most of the fluid coming from out of the gear chambers and lines.
 

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My power steering pump went this morning. All the oil has leaked out in the 5 mile drive to work. I have to make a 100 mile run tonight. I can handle the harder steering no worry. But will that destroy something else like the steering rack ?
 
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