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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Allen. can you reply so that I can continue our diaglogue.
The guy in the video did not change his seal either. i uploaded this video to youtube a year ago.
View: https://youtu.be/a-_BhCfxDwU


my stick starts at 30 at the bottom and graduates by 10. i took out 1/2 quart still need to take out more. Still having that traction light come on. MAYBE I should start a new thread about that though. Right now no engine codes
 

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. . . .I have been trying to reply to Allen but no more room left for replies. Getting this error code.. . . .
The error message indicates that you are trying to enter more than 10,000 characters in a single post. I think you car trying to copy previous information and include that in your current thread that you are writing. The forum probably has a limit to the number of characters you can write in any one post message.

I watched your video and you seem to have a good grasp of what is entailed. At time interval 4:10 you indicate and display text that show the oil pan bolt torque at 9 lbs-ft which is equivalent to 108 lbs-in. The filter screw bolts which you access with a start tool or torx are 5 lbs-ft which is equivalent to 60 lbs-in. I checked a service manual for a 2008 version of the 62TE transaxle and it indicates the pan bolts are set at 50 lbs-in and the filter bolts at 40 lbs-in. As is common with service manual documentation, I think the 50 lbs-in for transmission pan bolt torque is incorrect and low. 108 lbs-in seems more reasonable. I checked several sources and concur that the bolts attaching the filter to the transmission valve body should be torqued to 40 lbs-in.

You really do need to use a torque wrench on securing oil pans and to get them to seal properly. You need a torque wrench graduated in pounds - inches not pounds - feet. Also a beam type wrench where you try to align a pointer on a scale is really awkward. One should use a mechanical torque wrench that either clicks (noise and feel) or an electronic wrench that beeps and illuminates a lamp when the proper torque is reached. If you can torque oil pan bolts by feel and get them set properly with NO LEAKS, then you are much, much more successful than me at such tasks!

Torque is very critical when working with steel bolts in an aluminum structure. It is all too easy to apply excessive torque and strip the threads. Aluminum is much softer than steel and yields first.

I believe the traction control lamp illuminating is tied to the diagnostic code with the brake switch sense circuit #1 issue. Has that been resolved? Can you move the shifter from the PARK position by depressing the brake pedal or do you still have to use a screwdriver and access the emergency release? I would suggest staying focused on one problem issue, getting that resolved and remedied, and then moving onto the next issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The error message indicates that you are trying to enter more than 10,000 characters in a single post. I think you car trying to copy previous information and include that in your current thread that you are writing. The forum probably has a limit to the number of characters you can write in any one post message.

I watched your video and you seem to have a good grasp of what is entailed. At time interval 4:10 you indicate and display text that show the oil pan bolt torque at 9 lbs-ft which is equivalent to 108 lbs-in. The filter screw bolts which you access with a start tool or torx are 5 lbs-ft which is equivalent to 60 lbs-in. I checked a service manual for a 2008 version of the 62TE transaxle and it indicates the pan bolts are set at 50 lbs-in and the filter bolts at 40 lbs-in. As is common with service manual documentation, I think the 50 lbs-in for transmission pan bolt torque is incorrect and low. 108 lbs-in seems more reasonable. I checked several sources and concur that the bolts attaching the filter to the transmission valve body should be torqued to 40 lbs-in.

You really do need to use a torque wrench on securing oil pans and to get them to seal properly. You need a torque wrench graduated in pounds - inches not pounds - feet. Also a beam type wrench where you try to align a pointer on a scale is really awkward. One should use a mechanical torque wrench that either clicks (noise and feel) or an electronic wrench that beeps and illuminates a lamp when the proper torque is reached. If you can torque oil pan bolts by feel and get them set properly with NO LEAKS, then you are much, much more successful than me at such tasks!

Torque is very critical when working with steel bolts in an aluminum structure. It is all too easy to apply excessive torque and strip the threads. Aluminum is much softer than steel and yields first.

I believe the traction control lamp illuminating is tied to the diagnostic code with the brake switch sense circuit #1 issue. Has that been resolved? Can you move the shifter from the PARK position by depressing the brake pedal or do you still have to use a screwdriver and access the emergency release? I would suggest staying focused on one problem issue, getting that resolved and remedied, and then moving onto the next issue.
I called the dealer to get the torque specifications. So, I guess they either were blowing smoke or they just threw out a number to me. The next couple of days after installing pan, i noticed a little leaking of tranny fluid. I just carefully tightened the bolts and all good since then, no leaks.
I understand what you are saying about neding a torque wrench and I will get one before I do it again.

I can move shifter out of park most of the time without having to press the emergency relief. for the last two days, i have been working on another unexpected problem.
my alternator went out as the battery lifht came on 2 days ago. I stopped by Oreilys and got it checked at alternator was reading 12.5 v. I remembered that I had an extra alternator at home from one of the 4 times that I have had an alternator issue. After i had the alternator replaced before, I took the one that came off to an alternator shop and had it check. The shop said that it tested good.

I could not find anyone available to install it so, i took it to Oreilys to have them verify that it was good.
I watched Motor City Mechanic on his change out of the alternator from the bottom but, he has a lift and I do not.
So i started around midnight and took out fan, overflow and eventually I got to belt tensioner, which by the way when I loosened to bolt, would not budge. By this time it was 3 am and I was tired so I though i would start on it at daylight. Ended up having to order a belt tensioner from Oreilys because dealer wanted $253 or something to that effect.
I finally got the alternator replaced. I also removed the melted fan motor connector. When I had the fan out, I hooked up 12 gauge wiring connectors directly to the terminsls on the fan motor and wedged plastic inside the housing for the terminals and used heat shrinked to secure the connectors inside the housing and used 12 gauge connectors with heat shrink at the other end as well.
For the very first time ever, when i finished everything, i start it up and as soon as I turn the AC on, the high speed fan comes on. This is the way it should have been feom the start as I interpreted from looking at the schematic of the fan circuit.

I noticed some antifreeze dripping out from the tstat bleed screw. This is about the 6 or 7 tstat that ai have installed on the thing. I tighted it a little and forgot about it.

Last night at 130 am a lady called me to tske her home from work, on the way to her place which is about 25 miles, i noticed my temp was at 230 degrees. I did not run air necause when i turned it on the belts were squeaking. I thought that i must have not hot the tensioner on correctly. I drooped her off and let it cool, it smelled overheating. A walmart was 1.5 miles from her place at 230pm, when I got therre, temp was at 248. I lnow the alarm comes o. at 250 degtees n the morning and my home was 35 miles away. i purchased
Valvoline HoAt which says it is equilvalent to the Zerex technology but did not list Dodge Chrysler. Will this Valvoline with Zerex Technology be ok? It was the closest thing that walmart had to what I needed.
I think the antifreeze all leaked out the tstat so I wrapped the bleed screw in teflon tape and made my way home, thank God.

Today it is fine. I wonder if i need to replace the thermostat again?

I wanted to upload a pic of what I did to fan but do not see a way of doing that.
 

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I believe Valvoline owns Zerex now (or vice versa). When I google "Valvoline HOAT Coolant" I get this:

Valvoline™ ZEREX™ G-05™ Antifreeze / Coolant : Product Catalog - Valvoline® (at http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/antifreeze-products/g-05-antifreeze-coolant )

So the Valvoline coolant you purchased should be fine so long as it was the G-05.

I would recommend rechecking the belt installation. The belt shouldn't squeak. Plus the temperature readings you posted are high. Way higher than it should be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I believe Valvoline owns Zerex now (or vice versa). When I google "Valvoline HOAT Coolant" I get this:

Valvoline™ ZEREX™ G-05™ Antifreeze / Coolant : Product Catalog - Valvoline® (at http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/antifreeze-products/g-05-antifreeze-coolant )

So the Valvoline coolant you purchased should be fine so long as it was the G-05.

I would recommend rechecking the belt installation. The belt shouldn't squeak. Plus the temperature readings you posted are high. Way higher than it should be.
It does not say G05. I have always purchased Zerex at Oreilys and it does say G05. Valvolines version sold in Walmart does not say G05. It says it is made with Zerex Technology and it does not have Chrysler specs on it. It was the only option that Walmart had besides one by Prestone fir all vehicles or one by SuperTech for all vehicles. It says its for Toyota Honda Nissan Hyundai and Kia and others and the others are ASTM 03306, ASTMD4340, ASTM D4905, JIS K2234 MS58108 and fed A-AA-870A

They did not have different versions of Valvoline Coolant.
It says it is Phosphated Hybrid Oranic Acid Technoloy
Silicate and Borate Free.

I normally buy the Mopar at the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The error message indicates that you are trying to enter more than 10,000 characters in a single post. I think you car trying to copy previous information and include that in your current thread that you are writing. The forum probably has a limit to the number of characters you can write in any one post message.

I watched your video and you seem to have a good grasp of what is entailed. At time interval 4:10 you indicate and display text that show the oil pan bolt torque at 9 lbs-ft which is equivalent to 108 lbs-in. The filter screw bolts which you access with a start tool or torx are 5 lbs-ft which is equivalent to 60 lbs-in. I checked a service manual for a 2008 version of the 62TE transaxle and it indicates the pan bolts are set at 50 lbs-in and the filter bolts at 40 lbs-in. As is common with service manual documentation, I think the 50 lbs-in for transmission pan bolt torque is incorrect and low. 108 lbs-in seems more reasonable. I checked several sources and concur that the bolts attaching the filter to the transmission valve body should be torqued to 40 lbs-in.

You really do need to use a torque wrench on securing oil pans and to get them to seal properly. You need a torque wrench graduated in pounds - inches not pounds - feet. Also a beam type wrench where you try to align a pointer on a scale is really awkward. One should use a mechanical torque wrench that either clicks (noise and feel) or an electronic wrench that beeps and illuminates a lamp when the proper torque is reached. If you can torque oil pan bolts by feel and get them set properly with NO LEAKS, then you are much, much more successful than me at such tasks!

Torque is very critical when working with steel bolts in an aluminum structure. It is all too easy to apply excessive torque and strip the threads. Aluminum is much softer than steel and yields first.

I believe the traction control lamp illuminating is tied to the diagnostic code with the brake switch sense circuit #1 issue. Has that been resolved? Can you move the shifter from the PARK position by depressing the brake pedal or do you still have to use a screwdriver and access the emergency release? I would suggest staying focused on one problem issue, getting that resolved and remedied, and then moving onto the next issue.
Right now when I turn key to accessory, no lights come on. If I turn key to run, the battery light comes on and also the check engine light. The battery light goes off but the check engine light stays on.

If I start the engine, the check engine light goes off, is this the way it is supposed to be?
Because I do not remember the check engine light being on here.
 

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Yes, that is the way it is supposed to be.
 

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. . . . I can move shifter out of park most of the time without having to press the emergency relief. for the last two days, i have been working on another unexpected problem. . . .
So there still is an intermittent problem with the brake sense circuit #1. Something to pursue in the future.


. . . .I noticed some antifreeze dripping out from the tstat bleed screw. This is about the 6 or 7 tstat that ai have installed on the thing. I tighted it a little and forgot about it. . . . . Today it is fine. I wonder if i need to replace the thermostat again? . . . .
You should NOT have to replace the thermostat repeatedly within a very short time frame. Why did you replace the thermostat in the very first occurrence? Was there an overheating issue with the engine?

. . . . I think the antifreeze all leaked out the tstat so I wrapped the bleed screw in teflon tape and made my way home, thank God. . . . .
I tend to agree that you have a cooling system leak that is amplified and leaks much, much more under heat and pressure. In your previous thread that started with the transmission shifter not unlocking, you indicated that you experienced a burst cooling system hose. That tells me that ALL your cooling system hoses are probably in dire need of replacement. I bet some of hose ends (radiator and heater) are soft and starting to leak under pressure.

You mention that the electrical connector at the radiator fan motor assembly is melted. You patched a repair to get the fan to run. If that connector melted due to excessive resistance, the fan would not run and in your taxi service with slow driving speeds, that could very well lead to an engine overheating condition.

You may have some chemical incompatibility and adverse reactions in the coolant if you mix different brands. Get all these other problems resolved and then do a complete flush of the cooling system and add only 1 type of recommended coolant.

Side Note: You have indicated that you are not happy with dealership prices for parts. Yet you purchase Mopar antifreeze coolant from a dealer which is probably at least 2X to 3X the cost of other popular coolants available aftermarket. That seems puzzling to me???
 

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. . . . i noticed my temp was at 230 degrees. I did not run air necause when i turned it on the belts were squeaking. I thought that i must have not hot the tensioner on correctly. . . .
I believe the belt squealing was caused by spilled coolant that made its way onto the serpentine accessory drive belt when you changed the thermostat. No long term concern with this as driving will cause it to evaporate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So there still is an intermittent problem with the brake sense circuit #1. Something to pursue in the future.




You should NOT have to replace the thermostat repeatedly within a very short time frame. Why did you replace the thermostat in the very first occurrence? Was there an overheating issue with the engine?



I tend to agree that you have a cooling system leak that is amplified and leaks much, much more under heat and pressure. In your previous thread that started with the transmission shifter not unlocking, you indicated that you experienced a burst cooling system hose. That tells me that ALL your cooling system hoses are probably in dire need of replacement. I bet some of hose ends (radiator and heater) are soft and starting to leak under pressure.

You mention that the electrical connector at the radiator fan motor assembly is melted. You patched a repair to get the fan to run. If that connector melted due to excessive resistance, the fan would not run and in your taxi service with slow driving speeds, that could very well lead to an engine overheating condition.

You may have some chemical incompatibility and adverse reactions in the coolant if you mix different brands. Get all these other problems resolved and then do a complete flush of the cooling system and add only 1 type of recommended coolant.

Side Note: You have indicated that you are not happy with dealership prices for parts. Yet you purchase Mopar antifreeze coolant from a dealer which is probably at least 2X to 3X the cost of other popular coolants available aftermarket. That seems puzzling to me???


Thanks but no, every thing under the hood of my van is constantly checked, changed replaced or what ever the case may be. I replaced the heater hose plastic tee with a brass tee and it works perfectly fine and I verified if there would be a chemical reaction to the antifreeze with a chemist and engineer who assured me that that there would be no problem with that.

The fan has been an ongoing issue and has never worked correctly. The high speed should come on when the ac is turned on and I replaced the thermostat several times as well as the high speed cooling fan relay and basically after 310K miles plus the connectors on the wiring harness get brittle and the locking connector was brittle. I know that with electrical connections, y0u need to have a good solid connection and connector did not provide that for the fan. THis is why I put something on it that works better and it now works correctly.

As far as the antifreeze I picked up at Walmart at 2:30 in the morning, it was for Toyota and Honda and it said it was the Zerex technology however, it is phosphated. So tonight I flushed it out and put the Mopar antifreeze back in, which diluted and my discount I pick up at the dealer for around $11. Walmart does not sell any antifreeze that should go into a Dodge product, not down here anyway
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I believe Valvoline owns Zerex now (or vice versa). When I google "Valvoline HOAT Coolant" I get this:

Valvoline™ ZEREX™ G-05™ Antifreeze / Coolant : Product Catalog - Valvoline® (at http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/antifreeze-products/g-05-antifreeze-coolant )

So the Valvoline coolant you purchased should be fine so long as it was the G-05.

I would recommend rechecking the belt installation. The belt shouldn't squeak. Plus the temperature readings you posted are high. Way higher than it should be.

The belt was squealing because all of the antifreeze was leaking out of the bleed screw on the thermostat housing
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So there still is an intermittent problem with the brake sense circuit #1. Something to pursue in the future.




You should NOT have to replace the thermostat repeatedly within a very short time frame. Why did you replace the thermostat in the very first occurrence? Was there a
So there still is an intermittent problem with the brake sense circuit #1. Something to pursue in the future.




You should NOT have to replace the thermostat repeatedly within a very short time frame. Why did you replace the thermostat in the very first occurrence? Was there an overheating issue with the engine?



I tend to agree that you have a cooling system leak that is amplified and leaks much, much more under heat and pressure. In your previous thread that started with the transmission shifter not unlocking, you indicated that you experienced a burst cooling system hose. That tells me that ALL your cooling system hoses are probably in dire need of replacement. I bet some of hose ends (radiator and heater) are soft and starting to leak under pressure.

You mention that the electrical connector at the radiator fan motor assembly is melted. You patched a repair to get the fan to run. If that connector melted due to excessive resistance, the fan would not run and in your taxi service with slow driving speeds, that could very well lead to an engine overheating condition.

You may have some chemical incompatibility and adverse reactions in the coolant if you mix different brands. Get all these other problems resolved and then do a complete flush of the cooling system and add only 1 type of recommended coolant.

Side Note: You have indicated that you are not happy with dealership prices for parts. Yet you purchase Mopar antifreeze coolant from a dealer which is probably at least 2X to 3X the cost of other popular coolants available aftermarket. That seems puzzling to me???
n overheating issue with the engine?



I tend to agree that you have a cooling system leak that is amplified and leaks much, much more under heat and pressure. In your previous thread that started with the transmission shifter not unlocking, you indicated that you experienced a burst cooling system hose. That tells me that ALL your cooling system hoses are probably in dire need of replacement. I bet some of hose ends (radiator and heater) are soft and starting to leak under pressure.

You mention that the electrical connector at the radiator fan motor assembly is melted. You patched a repair to get the fan to run. If that connector melted due to excessive resistance, the fan would not run and in your taxi service with slow driving speeds, that could very well lead to an engine overheating condition.

You may have some chemical incompatibility and adverse reactions in the coolant if you mix different brands. Get all these other problems resolved and then do a complete flush of the cooling system and add only 1 type of recommended coolant.

Side Note: You have indicated that you are not happy with dealership prices for parts. Yet you purchase Mopar antifreeze coolant from a dealer which is probably at least 2X to 3X the cost of other popular coolants available aftermarket. That seems puzzling to me???
No, the brake problem issue has now disappeared. and the transmission is not shifting correctly. And since I removed some of the transmission fluid, it seem,s that the traction light has stopped coming on. When I bought this van it had 105K miles on it, I spent 15k on it. I have spent 15K more in maintenance and repairs. Any least little sign of trouble, I am on it like white on rice. I take better care of my van than I do myself. This van is my livelihood and I treat it well
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The belt was squealing because all of the antifreeze was leaking out of the bleed screw on the thermostat housing
Hi Doug. Well the Valvoline edition has Phosphoric Acid but the G05 Zerex sold at Oreilys is Phoshate Free. The Valvoline version of the Zerex does not have the Chrysler Numbers on it, but the Zerex G05 does.
 

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Taxi; the torque wrench you buy should be 1/4" drive. There are different ranges of torque. Get one that puts your needs in the middle of the torque range. ------- The fan is a high current circuit. Do a spiffy job on it.

The price of antifreeze keeps sneaking up. For the extra 10 or 15 bucks [divided by 5 years] I'll do it for the peace of mind of knowing it is the correct type and also I don't have to remember what's in the car if I have to add any next year. The same is true for ATF+4 and the old PS. fluid. Same is true for factory plug wires. Most everything else is aftermarket [but not Bosch or Airtex].
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Taxi; the torque wrench you buy should be 1/4" drive. There are different ranges of torque. Get one that puts your needs in the middle of the torque range. ------- The fan is a high current circuit. Do a spiffy job on it.

The price of antifreeze keeps sneaking up. For the extra 10 or 15 bucks [divided by 5 years] I'll do it for the peace of mind of knowing it is the correct type and also I don't have to remember what's in the car if I have to add any next year. The same is true for ATF+4 and the old PS. fluid. Same is true for factory plug wires. Most everything else is aftermarket [but not Bosch or Airtex].
Thank you for replying. I wished I had done a video on how I wired up the fan because it works great now. I broke my camera lens for my phone. Waiting on a replacement lens. The most important part of how I wired it was good tight connections and I stuffed plastic pieces inside the square connector on the fan side to secure wires in place and then i used heat shrink and electrical tape to secure all of it into place. same thing on the other side where i cut out the other part of the connector.
 

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. . . . The most important part of how I wired it was good tight connections and I stuffed plastic pieces inside the square connector on the fan side to secure wires in place and then i used heat shrink and electrical tape to secure all of it into place. same thing on the other side where i cut out the other part of the connector. . . . .
The electrical connector that I believe you fixed is attached to the fan shroud. It contains a resistor which is used to drop the fan speed and provide low speed operation in certain situations. It is cooled by air flow through the radiator. It just got excessively hot and with some additional resistance, the plastic connector melted.

I suspect you have bypassed this feature and have full fan speed operation even when in the low fan speed circuit is energized. But that is OK in your situation as slow, taxi speed service puts additional heat load on the engine. You want to make sure you do NOT overheat the engine and cause additional, expensive problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The electrical connector that I believe you fixed is attached to the fan shroud. It contains a resistor which is used to drop the fan speed and provide low speed operation in certain situations. It is cooled by air flow through the radiator. It just got excessively hot and with some additional resistance, the plastic connector melted.

I suspect you have bypassed this feature and have full fan speed operation even when in the low fan speed circuit is energized. But that is OK in your situation as slow, taxi speed service puts additional heat load on the engine. You want to make sure you do NOT overheat the engine and cause additional, expensive problems.
The resistor is on the top connection.
The one I replaced is the One that goes directly to the motor. It still works in slow speed. Thank you for all of your great advice
 
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