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I have been researching what seems to be a very common issue with the liftgate on the Gen2 PT Cruiser.

I am trying to resolve the issue with 2010 PT Cruiser that has a liftgate that does not open. While it is possible that the issue could be with the actuator, in all likely hood it is the pressure handle that has become faulty.

At this point, I have not confirmed what exactly the issue as I do not have the original factory remote to try and open it.

I have read that people have fixed this issue with a momentary switch. I was wondering if the switch will not work to open the vehicle when the vehicle has been locked?
 

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If the vehicle is locked, the touchpad switch will not open the rear hatch, the vehicle must be unlocked to open the hatch. ;)

If you unlock all the doors with one of the door switches, and try opening the rear hatch, if the touchpad does not release the hatch, then most likely the touchpad switch has failed.

And yours being a 2010, I believe your PT does not have a lock cylinder on the rear hatch, correct?

For several years of the PT, some bright Chrysler engineer decided to eliminate the rear hatch lock cylinder, which means, when, and if, the touchpad switch does fail, and it will eventually fail, one cannot manually open the rear hatch using the key into the lock cylinder, because there isn't one!!!



In that case, the only way you will be able to open the hatch is you can pull the driver's side interior D pillar trim panel (it can be removed with the hatch closed and the rear shelf in the upper most position) and find the wires going to the hatch actuator. Providing that the actuator is still functioning, you can short the wires and the actuator should trip allowing you to push on the rear hatch from the inside, or someone outside the vehicle to open it.

Several years ago the touchpad switch failed on my PT and I installed a separate switch:





The switch was about $5 and I have had no problems since installing it :)

This is the type of switch that should have been initially used, instead of the troublesome touchpad switch, as the only way to replace that style is that you have to replace the entire winged emblem :eek:
 

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Realize this is an old post but wanted to throw this out there for future people searching on this problem. The later model year PTs eliminated the key hole, so once the touchpad switch fails there is no way to release the hatch at all, and the emblem/touchpad assembly is no longer available from Chrysler.

You can have access to your hatch again for about $5 without taking any apart on the vehicle. Pickup a replacement key/remote "shell" off ebay or elsewhere for a Chrysler product of the same vintage that had the button for rear hatch release. The circuit board in the factory PT key/remote has the contact on the circuit board for that function, there was just no hole and rubber button in the original plastic shell. Swap the circuit board into the new replacement, and have the key blank physically cut to your key profile (Walmart charged me $2). Release hatch using the remote button.
 

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Realize this is an old post but wanted to throw this out there for future people searching on this problem. The later model year PTs eliminated the key hole, so once the touchpad switch fails there is no way to release the hatch at all, and the emblem/touchpad assembly is no longer available from Chrysler.

You can have access to your hatch again for about $5 without taking any apart on the vehicle. Pickup a replacement key/remote "shell" off ebay or elsewhere for a Chrysler product of the same vintage that had the button for rear hatch release. The circuit board in the factory PT key/remote has the contact on the circuit board for that function, there was just no hole and rubber button in the original plastic shell. Swap the circuit board into the new replacement, and have the key blank physically cut to your key profile (Walmart charged me $2). Release hatch using the remote button.
Is this the fob you got?



The PT convertible doesn't have the troublesome touchpad switch under the hatch winged emblem. That touchpad switch will eventually fail.

They should have made all the PT's (sedan and convertible) to open the hatch via the button on the fob. By doing that, they wouldn't have had to make 2 different handle assemblies, and they wouldn't have that troublesome touchpad switch to worry about.
 
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Realize this is an old post but wanted to throw this out there for future people searching on this problem. The later model year PTs eliminated the key hole, so once the touchpad switch fails there is no way to release the hatch at all, and the emblem/touchpad assembly is no longer available from Chrysler.

You can have access to your hatch again for about $5 without taking any apart on the vehicle. Pickup a replacement key/remote "shell" off ebay or elsewhere for a Chrysler product of the same vintage that had the button for rear hatch release. The circuit board in the factory PT key/remote has the contact on the circuit board for that function, there was just no hole and rubber button in the original plastic shell. Swap the circuit board into the new replacement, and have the key blank physically cut to your key profile (Walmart charged me $2). Release hatch using the remote button.
I want to thank you for your post, your tip worked like a charm :cool:

I got these fob shells off Amazon:




I transferred over the electronics and battery from my fob and it popped the rear hatch, like a charm :D

Now all I have to do is take them to my dealership to have them cut, there shouldn't be any charge, just like last time, because I provided them with the key code and pin.

The feature was always there, why didn't Chrysler just provide this type of fob from the start, especially when it can save a person when the troublesome touch pad switch fails, and it will eventually fail. ;)
 
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My cruiser back hatch isn't working either. Bought the key fobs and it works, but when the back"pops", it just opens about an inch, and still won't open all the way.

Thoughts?
 

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My cruiser back hatch isn't working either. Bought the key fobs and it works, but when the back"pops", it just opens about an inch, and still won't open all the way.

Thoughts?
Welcome to the forum :)

If you bought these fobs that I posted:

If you notice on the rear hatch button is has: X2

First press the door unlock button to unlock all the doors and the rear hatch.

Then press the rear hatch button once and it will pop open slightly, then while lifting on the handle press the rear hatch button again and it will unlatch the hatch and you can raise it.

The rear hatch button on the remote is acting like the touchpad switch on the back of the hatch handle assembly, but when that touchpad fails (and it will eventually fail) you don't need to replace it as this remote works in its place, and it will release the hatch providing that the actuator is working correctly :D
 
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Hey, thanks for getting back with me. Yes, those are the ones I purchased.

"Then press the rear hatch button once and it will pop open slightly, then while lifting on the handle press the rear hatch button again and it will unlatch the hatch and you can raise it. "

I think I just pressed it twice in succession, not the way you stated here. It's my sons car (so I don't have the keys all the time) and I put everything back in the original fob already, but I'll swap again tomorrow night and give it a go.

Second question: I tried to start the car with the old fob, without the guts - just the key. It started, then stopped. I'm assuming it's cause the chip in the fob (which now it doesn't have) prevents the car from running, correct?
 

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Hey, thanks for getting back with me. Yes, those are the ones I purchased.

"Then press the rear hatch button once and it will pop open slightly, then while lifting on the handle press the rear hatch button again and it will unlatch the hatch and you can raise it. "

I think I just pressed it twice in succession, not the way you stated here. It's my sons car (so I don't have the keys all the time) and I put everything back in the original fob already, but I'll swap again tomorrow night and give it a go.

Second question: I tried to start the car with the old fob, without the guts - just the key. It started, then stopped. I'm assuming it's cause the chip in the fob (which now it doesn't have) prevents the car from running, correct?
Yes the chip has to stay near the ignition switch for the vehicle to stay running.
 

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Ok, worked. Than you.

Any problem with the dealer cutting the new key?

I was gonna have someone install the switch mentioned earlier and now I'm wondering if I even need to do that
 

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Ok, worked. Than you.

Any problem with the dealer cutting the new key?

I was gonna have someone install the switch mentioned earlier and now I'm wondering if I even need to do that
I had the key code and pin, and the dealership didn't charge me anything to cut the keys.

I've heard there may be a fee for them to look up that info on your car.

As long as you can open it with the fob, you really don't need the switch.
 

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Welcome to Allpar. The one key should work in the ign, door, glove box and hatch. It's possible that the rear key cylinder is stuck due to not being used in awhile?
Try a shot of foaming graphite followed by a blast of compressed air, it usually penetrates and lubes the mechanism well.
 
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Realize this is an old post but wanted to throw this out there for future people searching on this problem. The later model year PTs eliminated the key hole, so once the touchpad switch fails there is no way to release the hatch at all, and the emblem/touchpad assembly is no longer available from Chrysler.

You can have access to your hatch again for about $5 without taking any apart on the vehicle. Pickup a replacement key/remote "shell" off ebay or elsewhere for a Chrysler product of the same vintage that had the button for rear hatch release. The circuit board in the factory PT key/remote has the contact on the circuit board for that function, there was just no hole and rubber button in the original plastic shell. Swap the circuit board into the new replacement, and have the key blank physically cut to your key profile (Walmart charged me $2). Release hatch using the remote button.
Note that this works with original Chrysler keys but not with most aftermarket ones such as those sold at low prices on EBay. They have a different type of switch on the circuit board and the replacement key housing does not mate with them. However a complete new aftermarket key for a 2006-2007 PT convertible or for a Jeep or Dodge SUV that includes a hatch release would probably work once the new physical key is cut and the new key is mated to the car, which you can do yourself but only if you already have two functioning Sentry Keys.
 

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Welcome to the forum :)

If you bought these fobs that I posted:

If you notice on the rear hatch button is has: X2

First press the door unlock button to unlock all the doors and the rear hatch.

Then press the rear hatch button once and it will pop open slightly, then while lifting on the handle press the rear hatch button again and it will unlatch the hatch and you can raise it.

The rear hatch button on the remote is acting like the touchpad switch on the back of the hatch handle assembly, but when that touchpad fails (and it will eventually fail) you don't need to replace it as this remote works in its place, and it will release the hatch providing that the actuator is working correctly :D
Hi, the actuator in our hatch went out and we tried the methodology you have laid out And it worked quite nicely. However, after about 3-4 weeks the lift gate button on our two new fobs stopped working. All other functions work, door locks, ignition, panic, etc. any clues as to what could have happened or where to go next?
 
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