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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I keep telling people it leaks oil like a torpedoed oil tanker. So out it comes next week.

any gotchas?

why pull the whole motor? well I am primarily fixin the cam and crank seals with shaft savers etc....re-doing the water pump and of course a new belt...but while on the stand:

1) clean off the years of oil goo
2) oil pan has 2 rust pinholes, got the new pan already...
3) oil pan gasket
4) new head gaskets
5) new TTY bolts
6) new rod bearings in std
7) new mains in std
(unless I see the crank really tore up, back in it goes...the point is just to aid/restore oil clearance)
8) new intake gasket
9) new rear main
10) cut about .003 off the heads to clean them up
11) ditto oil pump
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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The blocks & bottom-ends hold up very well on these. The heads were the weak spots.
If the rear main isn't leaking (hard to tell with everything dripping oil), I would leave the block in and service the heads & pan.
The rubber parts like valve & cam seals hardened up from heat and leaked like crazy. Usually new seals & gaskets stopped the smoke & puddles.
Some valve guides during this era (up to 11/91) were known to drop. Cutting a groove & installing a circlip cured this.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Im also looking at bad axle boots so quick boots are easy when you can stand in there, hose all the oil that got blown onto the frame and rack, and when a motor is on the stand and upside down...bearings are so easy...I think I head a bit of knock a few moments after startup - besides I got the rods, mains and thrusts for like $45 total.

Once the motor is out, based on what the tranny shop says I might replace the converter and perhaps the pump - that is weak in the 41TE.

Plus, what a chance to paint the whole damn think mopar big block red :)
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Font Screenshot Document Event
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
question - the mid motor mount in the front...that just controls rock right? I dont have my crane etc down here yet (this weekend) so I am trying to pre-game as much as I can. I need the tranny inspection plate off and the bell housing support brackets are connected on the front to this motor mount - no harm in removing? the tranny motor mount and nose motor mounts are still in place so nothing needs supported?
 

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I had a Diamante with the 3.0 that had a substantial oil leak for a few weeks before I FINALLY realized it was the oil sending unit. Put in a new one and that took care of it.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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The mounts at the red circles support the engine/transaxle weight.
The mounts at the green circles control torque reaction (rotation).

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Imperial you seem to be the shell answer man....what is the name of the red mopar engine paint? so I can order up...since the valve covers are peeling and I have a new pan, its all going the red I saw at carlisle on big blocks. heads too.

mounting brackets back to perfect gloss black.

just to be a smart azz :)


ps - you know I have STILL not found a machine shop to cut the heads....this is #[email protected]# pittsburgh. what has the world come to when there is not a sunnen on every corner?
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Chrysler Red? Look up 'Mopar P4349218AB':



You want to inspect the aluminum head gasket surfaces before deciding on a shave. Aluminum heads usually pit from 'acidic' coolant. You want to remove as little metal as possible without exceeding the service limit.
The iron block surface is usually OK after clean up.

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think the service limit is .020. I have no evidence of weak head sealing at present so I dont expect a major problem. Im using the embossed felpro permatorques in it. I looked for replacement heads - in case - zero. best I can do i junkyard. not a heckuvalot of demand and any remans are rare. and for the cost they want (near 350 each bare) if I do have an issues, and I can find a machine shop - groove and ring is a possibility. there is a bare pair on ebay for $400 so lets call that worst case. Im more looking at the .003 to clean up the factory cut as that is all they guaranteed from the plant. I cannot work on it again till tuesday so imagine my anxiety...
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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I see a grinding limit of 0.008" (0.2mm). If you have found a different spec, let me know.
Font Aircraft Parallel Motor vehicle Airplane



The hydraulic lash adjusters float in the rocker arms. The older ones are known to have spalling issues that can wear both the valve stem tip & the contact surface of the adjuster.

Human body Automotive lighting Font Automotive exterior Auto part


Camera lens Teleconverter Lens cap Lens Camera accessory


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Gas Rim
 

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I replaced all of the lash adjusters on the Diamante when I replaced the timing belt. I had four that were frozen so just to play it safe, all new ones were installed. This was about 12 years or so ago and the full set was under $100. I have no idea what they'd cost nowadays.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ithink what they mean in the document is that past .008 you have to restore cam geometry. there is a formula somewhere I can look up that shows the cam retardation based on surfacing cut, but I use .020 as that is the size of the steel shim and DAMMIT, this jogged my memory of something I forgot at the shop....indian head! I always use a thin coat of shellac at least on the fire rings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I replaced all of the lash adjusters on the Diamante when I replaced the timing belt. I had four that were frozen so just to play it safe, all new ones were installed. This was about 12 years or so ago and the full set was under $100. I have no idea what they'd cost nowadays.
'bout $12 each at present...
 

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^^ Well, if you're going to do the job, then do it right and replace them all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
just found em for a lot less, under $5 each from melling. wont know till I see the condition of the cam lobes. Im not planning on a re-ring either...all depends on the wear limits. This started as an exercise to properly seal up the oil leaks and of course all gaskets and bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
warning: the thrust bearing is done differently in this motor than most american stuff. its 2 pc thrust washers and they are getting HARD to source. thrust, keep crankshaft longitudinal movement down and is eaten into by aggressive clutches and bad converters in these application. mine are here, but I had to get FMs from ebay!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
turns out I could not work on it at all this week due to a trip, but got more prep done last night. just gotta unbolt the exhaust (snap off the bolts) and start lifting. I ended up removing completely the mid motor mount from the frame and all (its soaking in the parts washer)

now that I see clearly the decades of leaks, it seems chrysler put these together much like oldsmobile v8 of the 70-s: ewithout benefit of any gaskets or seals ;-)

does anyone have a line on the oil pump gasket for the 3.0? is it paper? if not I will make my own and permatex it in there. other course of action is the oil pump kit off ebay ($38) that has the new pump and gaskets. (even found one for $20 free ship but - eeeeek) Im a little leery about going for the STRICT chinese pumps....these gerotor style pumps fail or leak bypass, you lose the motor
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Mitsubishi made these motors & shipped them over, they are not really a 'domestic' Chrysler engine.

Google for: Mopar MD088855 - front seal
& Mopar MD1511295 - gskt.
 
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