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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
ok started teardown of the motor...so far its just all the motor mounts and plates and things that I am washing, cleaning, painting etc..the intake and entire fuel rail is off as one...a few hits

1) what is the size of the fuel line disco that is needed for the lines vertical in front of the passenger side motor mount, I did not bring ANY with me, I have them all pretty much in stock, but need to get when I go up to shop weds.

2) the water inlet appliance that goes thru the tranny bell...it appears the seal is not sold separately? just buy a new one?

3) the manner of disassembly appears to be important for the rocker shafts and the heads. I have new tty head bolts and after reading the manual, it covers the change around 1991ish for the tty bolts. I am reading 80-83 ft with oiled threads, but not heads. Is there an angle component? I brought that down as typically for ford or GM, tty means ft lbs, then degrees after click....

4) I had to dig into the tool box to pull the balancer but the nut was tight, the puller worked but Im betting the belt drive gear aint gonna be easy...anyone ever get a 2 jaw to get it off? what about valve compressor tool you might use for a buick nailhead (got one of them too). manual sez as last resort to drill and tap the gear to make it part of a puller....

5) manual says to chase with a tap the lower intake holes and I had to for 1 as the bolt brought some material with it - I have both the taps and the dies in metric...but the clearance is more now, like I might have reduced the thread size. Im half tempted to drill all for clearance and just use stainless nuts and bolts (underneath) since there is not a lot of torque on it?

more to come...
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
6) when I chase the head bolts, are they blind or open into cooling? I guess blind cuz no one sez to 'put sealant on the threads'? mebbe I answered that one for myself. I have the proper metric blind tap...
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
valve train off, the little lifter thingies are all good, in fact they and the valve stems are pristine. crankshaft belt drive pulley I had to damage getting off, I used a combo of the 2 screw drivers, the gm valve spring compressor then a 2 jaw...so I gotta order that. the cam seals are hard, and the shaft is slightly grooved so good thing I got the sleeves.

fer sure the crank seal is leaking and its such a mess, defensively I will replace the oil pump just to get all the gaskets in there new.

question to anyone who has ever done one, when reassembling the head(S) did you but the valvetrain back on before mounting the head or after? you need the first bearing cap to be on in order to set the sleeve to the right depth
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
and, it appears the crank gear is not available at all...from mopar...but the mopar number is MD100568 and it is still available from 'places' as it fit a 1992 3.0v6 (same exact engine?) used in many mitsus....anyone have a line on this?
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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MD100568 was used on the 3.0L from 1987-2000. Mopar has none and no dealer shows one in stock.
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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Total respect for mitsu...this little v6 is well assembled...the mains girdle was a nice touch.

heads are off and using the best straight edge I got are showing about .003 out. there is crosshatch in the bores and the bearings and journals - rods and mains are pristine.

Mr Imperial....do you have a handy picture of the installation of thrust?

and the oil pump appears to have not been leaking...the front seal is that bad...

I gotta travel tomorrow thru friday and got the truck show saturday so sunday I start laying in the bottom end
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
another question for Mr Imperial...to cut the heads (Calling now for shops....its harder than finding TP) you also have to cut the intake in a v motor...is there a conversion table for the motor you know of? isnt it like sin(bank angle *)? times cut?

i.e. .003 * sin(60)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
update, found a machine shop to cut .003 and he thinks on a 60* v6 no intake surface realignment needed. I looked real hard and I cannot get my .005 under the straight edge. I cant find ANY of my real thin feelers I use for motorcycle valve jobs...I think some walked off the job if you know what I mean, so I estimate Im AT .003 warpage...debating not doing it, but Im so far into fixing this right and I aint cutting the block at all....

I hope you guys are all enjoying this info...

ask me about my new way to wash my hands clean...
 

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Feeler stock may be available at a good hardware store?
I would just clean up the gasket sealing surfaces with a non-directional swirl finish, like a 3M Roloc® bristle would provide.
Heads on the 3.0L usually didn't crack or warp unless badly overheated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Feeler stock may be available at a good hardware store?
I would just clean up the gasket sealing surfaces with a non-directional swirl finish, like a 3M Roloc® bristle would provide.
Heads on the 3.0L usually didn't crack or warp unless badly overheated.
it is crossing my mind....I have exactly 10 scrotch brites left too....

I used to have feelers down to .001..the .004s were used on honda 4v heads....use the 1.5 ratio to get to .006 and do both locks at once! necessity = mother(invention) heh heh

back to the heads....using felpro permatorques - I have good luck with those. I dont know how the car was treated before I got it and I did heat up in traffic few weeks back when the fan didnt come on due to a fuse...but I was able to get moving but not before the overflow spat a little....think that was bad?
 

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The engineers didn't like us using the scratch-bite discs as they thought that the abrasive was too harsh and it didn't leave behind a swirl-finish, which they considered optimum.
Roloc bristle discs come in different flavors, I think that the engineers preferred the green ones.
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
The engineers didn't like us using the scratch-bite discs as they thought that the abrasive was too harsh and it didn't leave behind a swirl-finish, which they considered optimum.
Roloc bristle discs come in different flavors, I think that the engineers preferred the green ones.
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well I will go up the 'mr tool' guy saturday at carlisle and check them out
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
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short block is done. since this was taken the tensioner is on. the gates timing kit includes EVERYTHING and is a decent price from rock auto.

mild warning: the crankshaft sleeve is LONGER that what it needs to be by about 1/8th of an inch. you really ought noughta cut it OFF the engine as you will bend it and then it will never seal. on THIS motor the seal installer that comes from SKF cannot be used.

"so what will we use kind tall stranger?" you ask

It was inch and a half ish PVC pipe works JUST FINE. make sure the sleeve contacts the gerotor gear so the seal fits in all the way.

I used a dremel to cut off the excess and gently files the cut edge.

you are NEVER EVER EVER going to get a seal on there as is. You know the plastic appliance that generally comes with the rear seal? I made one from cutting a strip from a plastic zip lock bag - but not an actual zip lock, but like one that parts come in - thicker, much thicker than say a contractor trash bag. with a little grease smear and you can push the seal most in with your fingers, and bottom it with the same pvc pipe.

note the new crank belt gear has holes in it- if it ever needs to come off - tap 2 of these and make a sort of balancer puller.
 
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