[85lebaront2]

I am trying to repair what appears to be a Rascal 315 4 wheel mobility scooter. It was disassembled in a storage unit and when the unit was emptied it was all pilled together. There are actually parts of two, what seems to be a 315 with the larger tires and a much older convertible that was set up like a powerchair with a joystick controller. and has a 24VDC worm drive motor for steering the front wheels.

I primarily need a good wiring diagram, but a service manual would also help. I am trying to fix it for a friend who really needs something fairly rugged to use at work.

Thanks for any help!

 

[ImperialCrown]

I have a Go-Go scooter. It takes 2-12 volt batteries to power the motor. It has sat for years, so the batteries are likely shot.
I don't have diagrams. Is the company still in business and have you asked for a manual? An internet service like manualman or manualslib may have one?
How far has it been disassembled? Are the wires color coded?
Rascal 315 Manuals (at https://www.manualslib.com/products/Rascal-315-3982385.html )

 

[85lebaront2]

Imperial, I have the owners manual, and yes the wires are color coded. Rascal scooters was originally Electric Mobility then changed their name to Rascal Scooters, unfortunately they went out of business in 2002. Parts can still be obtained, but so far no luck on manuals other than the OM. Before I sold my late wife's Rascal I had a service manual and owners manual. I gave them to the couple who bought it. It was taken down to the various sections, no batteries or the battery connecting cables, but the battery to chassis including the circuit breaker was there.

Big problem initially, there are almost two complete Rascals, one a very old one that is called a convertible and was apparently set up like a powerchair complete with a joystick control and motor operated steering. The other one is the heavy duty version and apparently fairly late in production as the control box is completely different from the one we had. I did find the installation manual for it on-line at the manufacturers website and that will probably give me what I need.

The biggest issue we always had is the wiring and main connectors are nicely sealed and potted, but the actual plug together connections are not sealed when connected and in an outdoor use environment corrode. Since the operation is controlled by rheostats and current sensing, this screws up the system and the resulting safety program in the controller shuts the motor circuits down leaving you stranded.

I had things working to the point the brake release relay would close, but the brake release coil was not being energized. I found the small four wire connector from the powertrain to the controller was quite corroded and after getting that problem resolved have a fault code from the controller that tells me there is a problem in the dashboard on the tiller, the direction/speed control pot is not at the rest position (probably either bad or dirty) so it inhibits running (this is from the controller manual).

Since the gentleman I am trying to fix this up for will be using it primarily outside, I am replacing a lot of the open connectors with weatherproof ones so it will hopefully not give problems. I have a nice 25 amp regulated DC power supply I am using for testing the various components, but will need to see what he will want to do on batteries.

Thanks for replying!

 

[Robert J Sublett]

Actually, they are now out of business. But I got new ones in 2004 and 2010. Still using the 2010.

 

[85lebaront2]

I knew they were out of business. I was wrong on the model, it is a 305 which is a heavy duty model. I found an installation manual on the control box manufacturer's website. Using that I was able to (a) interpret the LED fault codes and (b) get the engager potentiometer properly centered.

The problem I thought was the brake release relay and no further response turned out to be a brain fart when looking at the key switch, which I now have a set of keys for. It is a generic automotive switch, 3 terminals Bat, Coil and Acc. In the drive position all are connected, in the seat lift position, it corresponds to the accessory position in a car, the yellow wire from the Coil terminal actuates the mode relay changing one side of the motor control circuit from the orange seat lift wire to the white drive motor wire. It is assembled and needs some front fenders fabricated as they were missing and a pair of batteries and the battery connectors, the harness into the controller and charger is there, but the battery connection and covers are missing.