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Discussion Starter #1
I need to remove and probably repair my whole switch.
1967 Chrysler NY . Tilt and telescope column.

but i cant find a way to get that thing out (in 1 piece) ? The opening in the "housing" around are much more narrow than the switch it self.

Ive tried to bend it a little in the possible ways. And i got the oppositside from the cam out, but The "axle" that the turn signal arm is fastened in locks up the whole thing. So i wonder if it is possible to remove the housing or what to say. The switch is bolted in a castiron thing that i suppose s the joint for the tilt function. Q: can i remove the housing around all this poopies. I cant find any screws that it should be fastened with. I may be dumb as f*** but i have to ask.

hope that there is someone that can help me. As i said, i probably have to repair it when i can only find switches for cars w/o tilt /telescope function
 

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Believe me, you want a service manual with pictures and procedures and lots of patience for this level of work. Special tools are needed, but there are pictures of these tools so you may be able to make something work. Avoid hammers and prying. Keep all the little parts organized. Best of luck to you.
The tilt-telescope section starts on page 7. T/S switch on page 10.
http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/231/cover.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #3
And the tool is the one on page 10 i suppose :) so. Slidehammer and the tool. Should help me get the cover out. The tool looks line it got the puller function on the outside of the arms?:) looks like it would do the trick when tbe beginning of the cover is "rolled" in.

(Tail)
My problem is that i got the turn signal and parklight but no brakelight, i got power from brakelight switch to the direction signal switch connector. But no power out on the darkgreen and brown which is the stop/dir, left/right side. And the emergency flasher just glows in the front, nothing rear. Glows like groundproblem no flashing. But if i disconnect any of the cables on stoplightswitch it flashes (in front)
Changed bulbs sandpapered the sockets for ground.
Put powerdirectly from the stop light switch and on the darkgreen cable in the direction signal switch; voila brake light, though no turn signal.




I have no backup light either. But what i can se from the wiring schematic, it wont be any better if i fix the T/S Switch
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Isnt it possible to take out the plastic pins and replace with a drillbit for example.. just to go around the column disassemble and be able to use the 2pounder hammer :p
 

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That isn't a turn signal problem, that is a brake light switch problem (more than likely). Imperials are more of a C body, but the brake light switch should be on a bracket along the edge the brake pedal would contact. Flashing on the front but not the back would be associated with a broken or loose wire so they need to be traced from the switches and back to the tail. They should run to the foot dimmer switch, behind that kickpanel, under the sill/along the sill of the driver side to the trunk. They are usually protected with a tin shield to the trunk, but things happen. Time for a wiring diagram, too.
 

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It can be the turn signal switch. On cars that share a bulb for the turn signal and brake light, the signal from the brake light switch feeds through the turn signal switch because the turn singal flashing overrides the brake light function for the bulb. I've had to replace the turn signal switch to fix an inoperative brake light on three older Mopars.
 

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My bad, didn't think about it that way. A volt meter would be able to verify circuitry working easier than trying to remove it to test. Just trying to help the guy out and diagnose easier.
 

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The service manual should tell which wires to check at the base of the steering column to confirm or rule out the turn signal switch but I don't have one that old to help out the poster.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I jumped the power from the brake switch to the brakelights in the turn signal switch connector. And the brake lights worked, but not the turn signal. Thus direct opposite the problem from beginning. But if i removed the jumpers things were ordinary again, no brake light but working turn signal:)
 

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This is starting to sound like some melted wires somewhere going to the trunk. I had a similar problem with a bulb removed in my tailights and shorting the wiring harness, melting a couple wires together and then cross shorting all over the place, but still functioning, so to check and verify this, look at the plug connections (they usually get the hottest and will melt), and if there is any warping or melting, then start checking the wires themselves. All the wires are interconnected with the headlight switch, brake light switch, turn signal, dimmer switch (they like to corrode and ground out there, too), and dash lights, so it can be pretty overwhelming where the problem really starts. Wires sticking to each other is a big indicator of a problem. I redid my dash harness and was lucky enough to find the melted and fused wires before I connected the battery and having the same problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I checked the cables from kick panel to connector in trunk no problem there, but i also realized that with the connector in trunk disconnected i got power on both brown and dk.green (power for brakes and turn) when i pressed prake pedal. But if i connect them again i got no power when i push brake. Hmm ground problem?
Later on i sat in car and jerking with turnsignal lever and pumping brake. All of a sudden i had brake lights and turn signal. Drove around the block and then it was the same again, no brake light, jerked the lever pumping brake, got brake lights for 20 secs then out again.

I concentrated again on grounding in back. Used multimeter for contact measure, dissconnected connector in trunk and all bulbs and put the bulbholders on rags for no grounding. Leftside i had only contact between cables with same color, but on right side i put the meter on the brassthing in the bulb holder that is brake light.(brown) and on the brown cable in connector; contact, but i had contact with purple cable too (backuplight). And the thing is the right backuplight doesnt work=burned cable somewhere there.

But still the jerking with turn signal lever spooks in my head? Can i forget about that direction signal switch?
I oughta change the turn signal cam too, i must hold lever when i signal for turn. I can stand the lever though, but charlie bluelights demands functioning rear lightings :p
 

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Well, in doing two things at the same time, pumping brakes and turning turn signal arm, you need to isolate one at a time to figure out which is the bad item.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well the problem is in turn signal switch, there or in the back somewhere on the right side. Im going to remove/loosen rear bumper to get good overview on the harness and backuplights
As i wrote earlier i used power from brake switch direct to the brakeligbts, and they worked therefore there cant be a problem with brake sw?
 
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