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Replacing a Transmission Mount

Derek Beland, 1992 Dodge Daytona:

Thanks to Stefan Mullikin and Matt Beazer for taking the time to write instructions for me. The 92 factory service manual also indicates you should take off the body-colored arm on top of the mount, but you don't need to do that either. Here's how I ended up doing it:

Loosen lug nuts on driver's side wheel, jack up and place the car on a jackstand.

Remove wheel.

  1. Pull out oval shaped insert right next to the tranny mount.
  2. Place piece of wood under oil pan, and jack up with hydraulic floor jack. Use the top of the air box relative to the top of the firewall to judge how high you're raising it. Bring it up about 2" or so for now, just enough to lift the weight of the tranny off of the mount.
  3. Using 15mm socket (all of the bolts are) with a 6-12" extension (I used a "waggle" extension, it allows movement of about 15 degrees) remove the bolt seen throught the oval window, then the three bolts visible beneath the fender guard. Spray the bolts with penetrant ahead of time, and have a cheater-bar ready. The center bolt will be twice as long as the other two, and has a circlip on the back of it, so you won't be able to pull it out of the mount. I just backed the bolt out until it was free and let it hang there.
  4. With a screwdriver from over top of the mount, push the diamond-shaped brass tube downwards until it touches the tranny. You should be able to grab the end of it with pliers. Tug on it, and it should come out. The shaft is cut diagonally in the middle, so it's actually two pieces.
  5. You should easily be able to slide the mount out now towards the battery. Push the wiring looms gently aside to get it out.
  6. Slide the new mount in, it's a lot easier to get it in than out. :)
  7. Line up the brass diamond with the bolt hole in the oval window and insert the long bolt. Loosely thread it into the nut that's welded onto the suspension arm.
  8. See how the three bolt holes line up with the holes in the tranny mount. Jiggle the mount until the holes line up from side to side. Now is the time to use the floor jack on the oil pan to center them vertically. I had the lift the tranny another full inch to line up the bolts. Be CAREFUL threading the bolts (especially with a waggle extension!). The casing is aluminum, and the bolt holes strip easily (been there, done that, retapped the hole).
  9. Insert the three bolts and tighten the [#@*&$^!] out of them (I think the FSM says 50ft-lbs). Tighten the long bolt as well, and replace the oval window cover.
  10. Lower the jack slowly, reinstall the wheel, and let the car down off of the floor
    jack. You're done!

Turns out the mount was OK after all, although I have to wonder how much movement it was permitting - the brass diamond was pretty corroded.

Making the best of the situation, I cut a couple of 2" pieces of wood and hammered them into the sides of the tranny mount, firming it up. I really liked the feel this gave on the test drive afterwards. I highly recommend it.

Mike Sa (1987 Sundance with 2.5 liter automatic):

  1. Remove left front tire,
  2. Remove plug which hides the mount bolt,
  3. Remove the plastic spash shield,
  4. Support the tranny with a floor jack,
  5. Remove the body to mount bolt (first take off the "damper" piece of metal, if's a square 5 inch long metal piece screwed onto the end of the thru bolt to the inboard side of the mount),
  6. Lower the tranny/engine with the jack to allow better access to the 3 bolts of the mount bracket to tranny,
  7. Wiggle the thing out, put the new one in, and you're done."

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