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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Replacing Oil Gallery Plugs

by Wes Grueninger

Does the plug have to be coated with RTV or Anerobic gasket sealer?

There is this wonderful brown stuff available from Permatex with a name something like 'Aviation form-a-gasket'. It is available in small metal cans that have a brush attached to the screw-on lid and is usually next to the silicone and RTV in the parts stores. Brush a little bit on the edges of the plug, hammer it into place, let it cure for a while, and you're good to go. The plug is hammered in around 1/16" at the most.

How does one remove the transmission to get at the plug?

I just had to pull the trans on a 1989 Daytona Shelby T2 to do a
clutch on it, so here's the procedure as well as I can remember:

I unbolted the sway bar from the lower control arms and swung it down and
out of the way. Next was to remove the ball joint bolts, then press down on
the control arms to pop the ball joints out of the knuckle. Next I removed
the axle nuts (you may want to do this beforehand unless you have an impact
gun!) and, with a drain pan under the transaxle, removed the driver's side
axle shaft. I then unbolted the equal length driveshaft setup and removed
the passenger side as an assembly, since the axle shaft is almost always
stuck to the intermediate shaft as tenaciously as a wino holds his bottle of
cheap wine - in other words, there is nothing on this earth short of a small
thermonuclear device which would separate the two.

The driveshafts taken care of, disconnect the battery and, if you like
having room to work, remove the battery tray. Now you can remove the
starter without doing any amateur welding when the wrench that you are using
to remove the positive battery cable from the starter comes into contact
with the head, block, exhaust manifold, turbo, on any of the other wonderful
conductive things that are grounded under your car. There should also be a
ground on the transmission case towards the firewall side (black with a
yellow tracer if I'm not mistaken), the speed sensor plug, and the backup
light switch on the front of the case. While you're up top, remove the
airbox and brackets as well as all the intercooler hoses to make working
around the transmission easier.

If you haven't already, now is a nice time to remove the shift cables from
the transmission, as well as the bobble strut and related bracketry.

Now you're ready to start disconnecting the transmission from the engine.
Start by removing the little 10mm bolt holding on the lower inspection
cover, the big 18mm bolts holding the transmission to the front engine
mount, the three 18mm bolts holding the steel brace between the block and
the transmission in the back. You can then rip the steel inspection cover
out of there so you don't have to worry about catching it on something
later. Looking in from the driver's side wheel well, there will be several
bolts holding the transmission mount to the transmission case.

Now that
you're ready to pull the beast, place a floor jack (or better yet, a
transmission jack) under the transmission so that it doesn't fall on the
floor when you're working on it. Next, remove the body plug covering
through bolt for the transmission mount and remove the bolt. Allow the
transmission to drop slightly and remove the bolts holding the mount to the
case. Removing this mount will ease maneuverability greatly when working on
removing and installing the trans.

Remove the
remaining two 18mm bolts holding the top of the transmission case to the
engine block, then if necessary use a prybar to separate the engine and
transmission (the input shaft will make this a bit difficult). Then the
trick is to get the transmission out while maneuvering the differential
around the K-frame.

I'm sure there are some really big, glaring, obvious omissions from my
instructions.


(Can it just be unbolted and dropped out of the
bottom?)


You betcha.


Thanks for any tips and tricks,


My biggest tip is to, once the intermediate shaft is removed, unbolt and
remove that little tailhousing sticking out of the passenger side of
the differential case. Trying to get that pig to clear the K frame and the
mounting ear on the engine block was a bigger pain than having the
mother-in-law visit for a week. Removing that housing lets you simply
rotate the transmission out and onto the floor.


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