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tedserv said:
Adhesive, while surprisingly strong, isn't near as strong as steel or even Aluminum.
A few rivets have radical amount of shear relative adhesive
In many cases adhesive is a stronger and far better choice than welding..... I am an architectural welder by trade, and especially where there has been a history of rust, welding is a poor choice if you have an imperfect base material to weld upon. When you factor in the bearings and other goodies in and around the strut top, I personally would never weld this tower unless an entire new one was put installed.
Just my 2-cents
Dean
 

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I have a 2000 T&C with both towers getting a perimeter crack about 2" from the top on the side of the tower. One tower has maybe 5" long crack already open to 1/3" in one place. Not sure if cap would extend below the crack. Looks like caps wrap down about 2." ...Is overlap vital? Maybe the adhesive/rivets elsewhere around the cap will keep things held on even if the crack is below the coverage of the cap... ? Thanks!
 

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I have a 2000 T&C with both towers getting a perimeter crack about 2" from the top on the side of the tower. One tower has maybe 5" long crack already open to 1/3" in one place. Not sure if cap would extend below the crack. Looks like caps wrap down about 2." ...Is overlap vital? Maybe the adhesive/rivets elsewhere around the cap will keep things held on even if the crack is below the coverage of the cap... ? Thanks!

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jr8iC653AW4


I had the exact same thing on my 1998 T&C. I included a YouTube link on a repair possibility. I did not do this but maybe you would want to? On mine at 310,000 miles I just didn't trust it anymore to fix the cracking and about that time the original transmission went and I sent it to the salvage yard. The cap will not go over the crack, I did check into it. I hate to say it and maybe someone else will chime in, but the tower will still be compromised even if you put the cap on there and a full tower replacement or some good welding will be necessary.
 

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I just wanted to share this picture. I actually found this earlier today on Craigslist for $500 bucks. 1998 Chrysler Town & Country. This looks like a pretty severe case of the tower rot and I assume this would require the entire tower replacement. The replacement "cap" you shown doesn't look like it would cover the entire problem area on this one.
That is literally only the second minivan I have seen with the tower like that. I have absolutely no clue what causes that, or if it is just a freak thing. Though it looks like the tower has pretty much broken through on that one.
Look like to me, only part of the top of the strut tower rusted out. It totally changed how the load and force was distributed and resulted in tearing away the metal in the new load path that went through a part of the strut tower that was never strong enough to handle it. Its probably rare cause it would have to rust out in one specific area without rusting out in another. Which by delaying the repair, they resulted in making it worse cause its damaged a different area than normal.

Adhesive vs welding. They engineered a solution to the problem, likely the cheapest solution possible, and you have to follow that solution. When they look at welding a new cap, they probably found the only reliable way to do it was to cut out a section of the tower and weld a much larger cap onto it and other pieces. Pop riveting a cap on alone probably was not a reliable long term solution, even if the pop rivets were strong enough, cause pop riveting will allow some motion between the pieces and that will create wear on the pop rivets. So the adhesive is probably strong enough that in combination with the pop rivets prevents motion between the two pieces and keeps the rivets from wearing down and shearing 50k miles down the road.

Engineers compared the two solutions and found the pop rivets combined with the glue cost less and took half as much time to install, so that is the solution they went with.
 
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