[Daytona Dude]

Well, finally got around to replacing the power window strip in my '84 Turbo Z.

I had to replace my battery, first, which took a while (just took a long time to get around to it).

I thought I'd start it up and take it for a drive but it wouldn't start. Starter is running strong.

I crank the starter probably four seperate times for ten to fifteen seconds each time.

Nothing. Not even a sputter.

I opened the hood and there was a definate fuel smell.

The car has sat for about 3 months, garaged, in Florida.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

 

[Doug D]

Possibilities:

1) Hall Effect?
2) plugs/wires/rotor/dist cap? (you don't mention how old they are)
3) check timing belt for sheared teeth or broke?
4) stuck fuel injector? You menion a fuel smell - does it smell like it's flooded?

Do you hear the fuel pump come on when you initially turn the ignition on? You should hear a dull buzz sound for a second - if not, possibly a bad fuel pump.

 

[soloflite]

+1^

 

[Daytona Dude]

1) Hall Effect?


Been replaced.

2) plugs/wires/rotor/dist cap? (you don't mention how old they are)


All fairly new.

3) check timing belt for sheared teeth or broke?


Car was running fine before parked, so I can't imagine this would be it.

4) stuck fuel injector? You menion a fuel smell - does it smell like it's flooded?

Could be flooded. I'm going to try starting her again tomorrow. How do I check for a stuck injector?

Do you hear the fuel pump come on when you initially turn the ignition on? You should hear a dull buzz sound for a second - if not, possibly a bad fuel pump.

Would I be getting fuel at all to the injectors if the fuel pump is bad?

 

[Daytona Dude]

I checked codes.

Throwing a Code 25: Air Idle Speed motor shorted or voltage out of range.

Funny thing is, rather than getting the typical "55" at the end, the power limited light stobed irratically.

Any ideas on THAT?

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Wiring fault.

Maybe critters got in and chewed the wiring. Check all ground wires - braided ground strap from firewall to intake manifold, battery to left fenderwell, and sensor ground to driver's rear corner of the block. Check the electrical connectors and check the wiring insulation on the harness on the back side of the valve cover. Check the fuel injector connectors, the AIS and TPS connectors.

Check the battery terminals. Even if they look clean, disconnect and clean posts and terminals, and look for corrosion where the wires meet the clamps.

 

[Daytona Dude]

Will do. Thanks.

 

[russ93spirit]

I went through a no start condition on my Daytona yesterday. It was a loose connector at the IAC, plus and/or poor condition of wiring behind the valve cover. My car was sitting idling just fine, and I wiggled those wires and it shut off. Bob L. is very likely correct.

 

[Daytona Dude]

Haven't had time to check all the wiring, but I checked the most obvious places.

I re-connected the battery and tried to start the car. No go.

I checked codes again, got the expected "12," then the "55". No code "25" this time, although the power limited light still flickers erratically after the "55."

I'll continue going over the wiring...

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Probably you should still check that the timing belt is turning. Easy way is to remove dist cap and see if rotor turns while cranking.

So, with no code 11 or 54, HEP is probably good. Ground one spark plug wire to the block, see if you get spark. There may be a bad connection at the ECM connector. They have substandard terminals that only wipe one side of the contact post inside the connector, and can break off. Could be that the ignition coil is not getting switched and not making spark.

 

[Daytona Dude]

There may be a bad connection at the ECM connector.

That may be exactly what it is. Before I put in the new battery, I disconnected one of the ecm connectors, cleaned it and coated the end with dialectric grease. I may have screwed something up there.

What sucks is I won't be able to mess with it until Sunday. I've been laid-off most of the month, but now that I could use the time, I'm starting back to work tomorrow!

 

[soloflite]

change the AIS! Will definately cause your symptoms. If your getting code 25, there's a good reason.. They do go bad..

 

[Daytona Dude]

I've looked online for an AIS with no results. Anyone have a source??

 

[soloflite]

Check turbo dodge, place an add. They dont make them any more for the 1st gen turbos.. i had one but recently sold it, i may have another lyin round and if i find it i will let u knnow

 

[Daytona Dude]

Thanks!

 

[soloflite]

Found it, PM me if interested.

 

[Daytona Dude]

Still no go.

I'm leaning towards it being the ASD relay, since I now get a code 42. I looked online, but neither AutoZone or Advanced seems to carry this part. I do know that this is a seperate part for "84, and not part of the ECM.

 

[dana44]

Have you verified you have spark from the coil, and then through a plug wire?

 

[Bob Lincoln]

The ASD relay in 1984 is inside the logic module, which is behind the passenger kickpad. When you turn the ignition to ON (not START), you should hear a click from this area of the car. If not, the relay is not closing.

 

[Daytona Dude]

Okay. I do have a back up logic module. I'll try the swap.