[core]

Does any one have feed back on Schumacher headers? I am installing a 360 into a 1975 Valiant and I was wondering if the headers are worth the price. The headers are designed just for this application that I am trying to do, so they tell me.

Also what are the benefits of ceramic coated over uncoated? Will the uncoated ones hold up if a good heat paint is applied?
Why do Schumacher and TTI headers cost so much more than the ones from Summit? Are they that much better?

 

[TWX]

I have TTI headers that are not ceramic coated in my Cordoba. I bought them second-hand but unused, already chromed. I had some Thorleys in the car before, I bought them New Old Stock and had them ceramic coated, they were pulled out because they wouldn't clear a 727 transmission, while the TTIs would.

The TTIs are GREAT headers for fit and build quality. They use thick flanges, good welds, and they test fit like crazy. I know a guy whose Monaco was used as the C-body wagon test-fit car for the headers and exhaust, and they replaced headers in his car to work out the bugs.

The thing I miss about the Thorleys that I had ceramic coated is that the heat in the engine bay was very low. The ceramic coating keeps the headers from radiating into the engine bay, to the bulk of the exhaust heat goes into the head pipes instead of into the engine bay.

If I had to buy new headers again, I'd buy TTI ceramic coated headers.

 

[dana44]

I went up and met the owner of TTi back when they started the company in the late 90s. They only do Mopars from what I remember, fit the best, and tested against the competition exceed everyone else in performance, fit, and quality. Expensive, yes, but you won't have to worry about them for the life of the vehicle. They actually get one of the application vehicles and make them to the car so they clear every time. As far as ceramic coating goes, much more efficient and protective than chrome or heat paint, which does not last forever, ceramic pretty much will if you go that route. In short, if you can afford to save for the TTi headers, you will be much happier with them over any other brand.

 

[tazdevil]

I was not aware that Schu built small block headers. His ads show big block only.
I have TTI's on the Demon, running now for five years. Ceramic coating is a definite advantage. In those five years, I have never had to retorque the flanges. A big advantage to TTI is that the number 7 tube is on a seperate flange so that that tube can be snaked past the T bars. It plugs into the collector, and never leaks. Get their X pipe too.

 

[Bearhawke]

I too have heard lots of good things about TTI's product.

I'm guessing that Schumacher is good too but heard little or no feedback over their headers either good or bad.

 

[core]

The headers are going to be installed on a 408 stroker. The TTI headers have a 1 5/8" primary, 1 3/4 secondary and a 3" collector.
Schumacher ' s has a 1 3/4" primary, 2" secondary and a 2 1/2" collector.
Setting price aside what header would work the best for my engine?

Has anyone ever used ceramic headers for the first time on a dyno? TTI does not recommend it. If I use the dyno test to break the headers in, would that work?

 

[TWX]

The headers won't need to be broken in, they'll just work, in my experience. If you have the original exhaust, I would suggest breaking in the motor with the original exhaust.

My TTI headers are going to be on a 408 stroker as well, in my '78 Cordoba. I come out of the 3" collector, step down to 2.5", go through cats, an X-pipe, over the rear axle, some Dynomax Turbo II mufflers, and out. This setup was for the 360 that had been in the car before, but was actually overkill for it based on the math that I did at the time I built it. I don't expect my headers to be restrictive on my 408 even with the 1 5/8" primaries.

 

[dana44]

Remember the rule. The smallest diameter is the maximum of the exhaust output flow. So, since the exhaust port itself is less than 1-5/8ths inch there, there is no advantage to having it larger, the bolts themselves get tight. The header exhaust inlet should be a hair larger than the exhaust port, but that extra 1/8th of an inch is way more than you need, .125 outside the full exhaust port gasket size only needs to be .040 or thereabouts on the exhaust side to help with reversion, so bolt room is more important. If they are that much larger than stock, chances are they are dimpled for bolt clearance as it is. You do want a little bit of back pressure at the header, especially on the street. All out racing would be different, you would be relocating the exhaust bolts to give extra clearance anyway.