02 Pt LT 2.4L non-turbo A/t 206K- 1K ago t/b,w/p,idler tensioner , ex. man. rad and fan, k frame and rack and pinion cars was running great till last week seem to have a hesitation when cruzn around 1500 rpm like once before when pump failed. today brother was driving and car acted like it was running out of fuel then run ok for a minute then no throttle response and stalled, it now cranks but will not start. Fuel pressure 50 psi prime and 60 psi at crank at fuel rail. I put a spark plug in #1 wire and have fire at crank, scanner showed tcm code power up while active and theft code driver door open (i had door open while running scan and while locking and unlocking)codes cleared no returned. pulled cps swapped with one from my 07 no change also changed ckps no change, small amount of fuel in intake no start still . looking for a little direction what am i overlooking have checked all fuses and relays except the few scanner check but vehicle has to be running . Sorry for the marathon post just wanted to get what ive tested and a little history. discconnected map no change.
shudder no throttle response stall cranks no start
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Joined
·
12,312 Posts
Could be the catcon has clogged.
ill check, cat plug usually if it sets you can start. the car occasionally gives one quick pop on initial crank. what brother discrbed i thaugh fuel issue but with pressure readings has to be more of injjector time and spark time i believe please correct me if i'm stubling blindly in the wrong direction.
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
·
17,277 Posts
A car will usually fire when starting, but may not run with a plugged cat. You can pull the upstream O2 to give the gases somewhere to escape as a test (keep it brief, as hot exhaust can burn nearby components).
If you can set #1 to TDC, double-check the cam marks under the small plastic top cover window to make sure that nothing jumped.
Even with good fuel pressure, there is no guarantee that the injectors are opening and spritzing fuel into the cylinder.
If you can set #1 to TDC, double-check the cam marks under the small plastic top cover window to make sure that nothing jumped.
Even with good fuel pressure, there is no guarantee that the injectors are opening and spritzing fuel into the cylinder.
Joined
·
8 Posts
Im new here, but..........im thinking camshaft sensor is junk 
JMO
JMO
Joined
·
9 Posts
Even if the cam position sensor was junk it would still start and run, just be limited to 2500 rpm.
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
·
17,277 Posts
Without the cam sensor, the engine may need a long time cranking in order to start. If there is fuel in the intake and spark and valve timing is OK, then it should fire. Something is missing.
Does your scan tool show the cam and crank position sensors as being 'present' while cranking?
If the cat is plugged it may not continue to run after initially firing a couple of cylinders.
Does your scan tool show the cam and crank position sensors as being 'present' while cranking?
If the cat is plugged it may not continue to run after initially firing a couple of cylinders.
sorry have not replied sooner been sidetracked . Imperial correct again pulled inspection plug marks don't line up ? just did timing belt 3 weeks ago pulled apart many pieces of rear cover inside got on pulley allowed timing to skip installed new cover and belt as plastic bits damaged existing belt. I saw crack on rear cover didn't think would cause a problem WRONG!! Still have a studder around 1500rpm like a dead spot in throttle position sensor, scan did show cps ckp but were speratic with sync. but both of those were swapped with know good ones with no change.
Joined
·
8 Posts
When you swaped the CPS and CKP did you use MOPAR sensors? IF not......that could be your issue. I've seen a CPS get swapped with an autozone one and die in the parkinglot right after.
Joined
·
103 Posts
Mine did, initially, but then it just became unusable.
Damn near tore the engine out of the bay, IF it would start, and I felt that I was being mechanically unsympathetic by persisting.
Dragged it down to my main man, or maybe he dragged it - can't remember.
4 hours later, all going sweet - NZ$500 or less, from memory, inc. diagnostics, cam angle sensor and a new oil pressure sensor. ( it was seeping). And sales tax.
I'm not complaining, as the local auto-electrician said it was the ECM, which was unavailable except ex-USA, and COVID had just kicked in. And the price, even 2nd hand - so glad I didn't go there, as I'd still be walking, and a lot broker.
Joined
·
1 Posts
Timing belt
Joined
·
103 Posts
My '05 PTC 2.4 would sometimes fire up fine, and other times just churn over and over, with no result.
Often, once it was started - like if I walked away for ten minutes, and tried again. either it was fine, or it would only run up to 1500 rpm max., which was a bit useless, given how steep my driveway is.
Also, often on the occasions that it did fire straight up, once I was on the road, it would surge violently - felt like the engine was going to rip itself out. Like the fuel was being switched on and off.
One workshop rubbished the whole idea of the fuel cap being an issue, (although the decal under the hood shows that is an essential part of the system), so I waited a week for my main man to find a slot for me. That's how flat out he is, and there is no room to park there.
I hadn't even walked home, and I got a call telling me "cam angle sensor", and this was done.
NZ$500 fitted, with a new oil pressure switch, and I've had zero issues since.
The odd thing was, that while is was running like a bag of #@*!, the immobiliser light stayed on most of the time. Strange.
I fear that the violence of the engine cutting in and out won't have helped the engine mounts, which are apparently notorious week spots, but she's running fine, doing good gas mileage and starting easily.
So, I dunno what the deal is with yours, but I'm simply sharing my experience.
Oh yeah, and another large vehicle workshop who "specialise in all electronic and mechanical repairs" told me it was a faulty Engine Control Module - "very common", they said, but unobtainable in the Pacific area, and about 10 billion weeks ex USA, and nearly as many dollars.
I'm a bit concerned about the possibility of a blocked cat, though, because the inside of my exhaust tailpipe has had surface rust on it since I bought the car, and I would have thought that, over time, some sort of soot or something would have covered that up. but hell, it goes, so I guess I should just count my blessings.
If you've got someone you trust, go to them.
All the best, Andy
Joined
·
184 Posts
Most of this thread is 8 years old?
![Crash Motor vehicle Vehicle Car Collision]()
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
