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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, so I am new to the community so I do want to say hello first off. I have a 93 Plymouth sundance 2.2l non turbo. I have been looking all over just to see if the crankshaft pulley bolt is counter threaded or not, but I haven't had any luck getting any info on that. I need to remove it to replace the seal on it. Any help is much appreciated.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Welcome to Allpar. It is a regular metric threaded bolt. Turn CCW to remove the bolt.
A warm engine is best as the heat will help soften the threadlock. The threadlock is stiff on a cold engine.
Using an air impact wrench to zip out the bolt is better than hand tools. Using hand tools will require you to hold the crankshaft still while loosening or tightening the bolt.
The crank timing belt sprocket will need a puller to remove it. The front crank seal is under the sprocket.
You will have to R&R the timing belt and re-time it while putting it back together. If the belt is old, oil-soaked or if it is unknown when it was last replaced, replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to Allpar. It is a regular metric threaded bolt. Turn CCW to remove the bolt.
A warm engine is best as the heat will help soften the threadlock. The threadlock is stiff on a cold engine.
Using an air impact wrench to zip out the bolt is better than hand tools. Using hand tools will require you to hold the crankshaft still while loosening or tightening the bolt.
The crank timing belt sprocket will need a puller to remove it. The front crank seal is under the sprocket.
You will have to R&R the timing belt and re-time it while putting it back together. If the belt is old, oil-soaked or if it is unknown when it was last replaced, replace it.
Thank you for the help. Just wanted to make certain of that since I don't want to turn a leak into an engine rebuild.
 

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The crank sprocket can be a challenge to remove so plan ahead if possible.

It has 5 closely spaced pulley bolt holes so it takes a small puller to remove it.

Usually with 3 evenly spaced fingers not 4.

Jaw type pullers will often break the sprocket so be careful.

Many make a puller from an old crank pulley, 1988 and newer 2.2 or 2.5 are 5 bolt.

Good Luck!!

Thanks
Randy

Pictures of home made sprocket tool.

 

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One last tip, the pulley bolts are torx head.

Thanks
Randy
 

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If nothing else works, put the tool on and seat it against the frame or someting that are sturdy.
- make sure nobody is near the tool!!!
- hit the starter briefly...
 
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That's how I've loosened a LOT of crank bolts over the years!
 

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One last tip, the pulley bolts are torx head.

Thanks
Randy
Nope, not on 92 and 93. They are hex head by then, thank goodness.
 
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The star-head screws are actually inverted-Torx. I believe that the socket size is E8? E stands for external.
They are close to a 5/16" or 8 mm 6-point socket.
 
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Appreciate the up date!!
The inverted Torx were an odd bolt in a hard to see place.
Thanks
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I managed to get to the sprocket but the thing seems to be welded to the engine almost. I've used a puller with no luck and that was going with the suggestion of using an old pulley. The only thing I haven't done is torched it.
 

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Heating the sprocket while keeping the crankshaft cool may give you needed expansion to help remove the sprocket. You will probably need the special puller tool. I've never had luck removing these with a 'generic' puller.
 
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