TWX said:
Technically, an inline amperage test is called for, but it's very unlikely that any given hobbyist has an ammeter capable of handling cranking-amps without blowing a fuse.
I just fixed a problem like this with my truck, and in my case it turned out that my positive battery cable was messed up. I could see a bad ground from the engine or transmission causing a problem as well, or any other connection issue that doesn't let high current flow freely.
The service manual that I have for that truck called for an inline amperage test, but I do not own a meter capable of handing that current, and from what I can tell, a meter capable of measuring that amperage is very expensive.
ya, most likely made by Fluke.
I have a fluke, but only good for 100 Amp. I'm an electrician. IBEW inside wireman. more comfortable installing an 800 Amp service panel than automotive wiring. one thing about cars and all wireing is the ground. most important. need a good return path.
i'm just getting the feeling with this car that the starter is done - and pulling way too much current when it tries to crank.
going to check the cables one more time and then pull that starter and get it tested at autozone.
side note: had a Ford explore once. thought the starter was bad. changed it at $150 and same problem.
turns out my year had a silent recall. bad pos battery cable, they push the wire into the battery terminal and then push a "stake" through to hit the cable. the stake missed. the cable and terminal became loose over time. bad connection. and makes you think its the starter.
this isn't my car so I don't want to just start swapping out parts. owner dosn't have much money, so i'm tring to do this the most painless way. LOL
i'm working on a 99 olds minivan, but it's set up the same as most cars, like my 2000 Voyager or 92 Lebaron.
same principals, bit different looking parts.