Allpar Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
little background first. vehicle has been non op and off the streets for about 4 years. the person i got it from started restoring the truck but had too many projects to complete. he said that the exh manifold was cracked when he got it so he pulled both manifolds off and replaced them with a set from a 74 or so vehicle. he took the head off to have one of the manifold bolts taken out that had broke off inside. he told me that the cylinders looked good with no pitts or scarring. he also said that he rebuilt the carb. however since doing this work the vehicle has started smoking and he really didn't know why. now that i have it, ive changed oil to a 15-40 put in new valve stem seals on the intakes (the ones i took out seemed to be in good shape still plyable and soft. ive did a compression test and got 90 + or - 2 across the board. i pressure tested the radiator and it doesn't leak at all. the engine runs very good no noise, smooth idle, doesn't smoke alot at idle only seems to start really smoking steady if i raise the rpm. at about 2000 rpm blue gray/ white gray is spewing steady. any suggestions on where to go next would be greatly appreciated. thanks for the time. eric. 64 D100, 65 Dart GT, 66 Dart Ute Custom. all /6 engines.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
31,984 Posts
90 psi is too low for this engine, should be up over 120-125 psi. Sounds like the rings may be shot. To test, measure compression with engine hot, then squirt oil in each cylinder and measure again. If the compression goes up, say, 10% or more, rings are shot. If no change, it's not the rings.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,074 Posts
Agree. I have had problems many times in taking a head off an old engine (say 1980 or earlier), then having the rings go bad and blow smoke before one year. Old valve jobs (done or not) only started working after the mid 80s when the rings ended up with more moly in the rings and super hardened cylinder walls. In short, rings and rod bearings are not that expensive, quick hone on the cylinders, leave the main bearings alone, and clean the oil pan, replace the oil pump if it has more than 80K miles on it and you will have an engine that will last 250K if you flog it, 325K if you don't.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,042 Posts
You might try a product that will clean the carbon from the rings which may be stuck from inactivity. I used to use Top Oil from Bardahl or Wynn's but I haven't seem them for years. You would pour it down the carb and do it fast enough that it would kill the engine (not fast enough to hydraulic the engine) and let it sit for an hour and then fire it up. Be prepaired for a polution ticket though as it is an oil and the clouds are extensive. It would free up the rings about half the time.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,074 Posts
I have had good luck with Engine Restore, use it to replace the same volume of oil in the engine, but if it doesn't work within about 100 miles or about two hours of driving, at minimum 30 minutes at a time to get it properly warmed up, then rings and rod bearings, light scuff of the cylinders will be the best option.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
682 Posts
Please keep us updated on what you find out -- reading the initial complaint I thought this was rings too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,920 Posts
kreen from kroil/ kanolabs.
Do a search on Bitog and se what others have to say.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top