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Another thing when its beginning to stall I still hear that loud thump under the hood. It sounds similar to when my ac engages in the Jetta. But I don't have the ac on, its not charged:eek:
I wonder if there is a short in the cooling fan? Perhaps you could pull the cooling fan relay and take it for a spin to see if you hear that thump again. Make sure the engine doesn't overheat and run the heater to draw some heat out from the engine if necessary. Also check the fan blades to insure there is no blockage.

If you quickly want to check the fan to see how it sounds when it comes on, just pull the plug to the engine coolant sensor on the thermostat housing. It will set a code, but you can clear that later by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
I wonder if there is a short in the cooling fan? Perhaps you could pull the cooling fan relay and take it for a spin to see if you hear that thump again. Make sure the engine doesn't overheat and run the heater to draw some heat out from the engine if necessary. Also check the fan blades to insure there is no blockage.

If you quickly want to check the fan to see how it sounds when it comes on, just pull the plug to the engine coolant sensor on the thermostat housing. It will set a code, but you can clear that later by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery.
Did that and all seems to be fine.

It started up again today and I decided to play with the egr hoses and they all seemed to fit nice but it brought the car out of it. I returned the map and got a hall effect and put that in. I'm driving it tonite for about 2 hours of light delivery work, and at idle at lights and parking it seems to want to go back into it. The idle gets reallll low. I bought 10 feet of hard line and I'm gonna replace all the hoses in that area. I noticed when I removed a hose to the egr that there was some light water blowing out the hose and I smelled it and it smelled like regular water. Just condensation?
 

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Quite possibly just condensation in the EGR system. The products of combustion (well, perfect combustion, anyways) are carbon dioxide and water vapor.
Have you checked the idle air control motor? They often get gummed up with gasoline residue, particularly if the car was not driven too frequently. If the IAC pintle can't move, the engine controller can't increase the engine idle speed.
There is a covered setscrew on the throttle body; don't touch this. This is a calibrated setting for throttle body minimum airflow. I assumed that the function was the same as the idle screw on a carbureted motor, but it's not. Now, I can't reset the screw to exactly where the factory had it. There are methods to get it approximately right, but fuel injection systems can be finicky if they're not properly calibrated.
 
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Did that and all seems to be fine.

It started up again today and I decided to play with the egr hoses and they all seemed to fit nice but it brought the car out of it. I returned the map and got a hall effect and put that in. I'm driving it tonite for about 2 hours of light delivery work, and at idle at lights and parking it seems to want to go back into it. The idle gets reallll low. I bought 10 feet of hard line and I'm gonna replace all the hoses in that area. I noticed when I removed a hose to the egr that there was some light water blowing out the hose and I smelled it and it smelled like regular water. Just condensation?
I had water in an EGR hose once. I opened the black transducer and black water poured out. The orange rubber diaphragm inside it was torn. Had to buy a whole new assembly, as they don't sell the parts separately.
 
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For newer cars, like my Spirit, the EGR transducer is available separately; however, it looks like for '88 the transducer doesn't have the solenoid integrated into it. Either way, the '88 EGR valve is on closeout right now for less than $20 from RockAuto.
 
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Discussion Starter #86
I'm gonna check that idl e motor and pick up the egr. Adjusting the hoses to the egr brings it out of it and it may be connected.
 

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So I just noticed this, I'm driving at night and I'm coasting at 30 mph, foot off the gas. And it begins to do the usual, it feels like the power surges, like I'm tapping the breaks. I noticed my speedometer lights dim when it happens, and my battery gauge which is usually in the middle drops a quarter way when this happens. Could this be an electrical issue all along?
 

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So I just noticed this, I'm driving at night and I'm coasting at 30 mph, foot off the gas. And it begins to do the usual, it feels like the power surges, like I'm tapping the breaks. I noticed my speedometer lights dim when it happens, and my battery gauge which is usually in the middle drops a quarter way when this happens. Could this be an electrical issue all along?
It sounds like it. Make sure your battery cable clamps and posts are shiny clean. Check all the ground wire connections to insure they are clean and well secured. There may be a ground wire on the rear side of the head on the driver's side that could be loose, broke-off or just disconnected.

It sounds like when you slow down, a bad connection is occurring due to the engine shifting position.

Also, check the black connector (long bullet shaped) behind the battery. Sometimes these get some battery fluid splashed on them and corrode badly. A green oxidation will be seen on the copper contact inside that connector if corrosion has started.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
So i fiddled with wires all over the engine to see if I get a reaction. I did. Under the air cleaner throttle body is this big black tube like connection. It ran to the right of the engine (driver side) to a place by a ground. Ground was fine. But the wire went to the back of the block and I could see what it was. I felt it, a spark plug shaped sensor. Also i noticed 2 severed wires on a connector to the throttle body. I just can't get these images to upload...
 

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First picture is the ground on the driver side rear of the head. The "Spark plug" type sensor is the Oxygen sensor. Hard to see in the second picture. I've repaired harnesses with spare parts from junkyard cars before, the pins can be removed from the connectors and then the new wires/pins soldered onto the cut off wires.
 
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OK so the seller has had the car twice last week. Each time claiming its fixed, and not being able to tell me what was fixed. I've contacted Richmond Chrysler, and I need to call them on Monday cause they only have one master tech that's certified on that year. I just want this fixed at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
OK so how do I check the idle air control motor? Also where is it :p if its dirty what would I use/how to clean it? Also I was advised by Chrysler to clean the throttle body, how should I go about that? The mechanic had it two more times and has not fixed the problem, so I called a dealership and he went down a list of things to check. But they won't look at it cause the policy is no cars after 1990
 

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Did you ever check the cam timing? The head has most likely been replaced on this car. You can see the "Warranty void if removed" button in the cylinder head plug that only comes on aftermarket cylinder heads. This never came on factory heads. Cam timing can cause the problems you are experiencing.
 

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Did you take care of the oxygen sensor wires? That can mess with your fuel ratio.
 
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