Changed the oil sending unit, flushed engine and put 5W-30 Mobil1 and filter, replaced coolant air bleeder, replaced plugs with platinum's, replaced air filter with a K & N, and put in a new battery. Now sitting at red lights in around 80 degree temp. Oil light begins to flicker again and engine idle shows on the dash about 550 RPM. Then when the fans come on it almost stalls the car. Mechanic buddy told me to spray and clean the throttle body and the IAC, also said he solved the oil light issue by using 10W-40 oil instead of the 5W-30 or 10W-30 the manual calls for. Throttle body cleaning will be done this weekend. Just wondering what the thought was on using the 10W-40 oil. it's a 2004 Sebring Convertible 2.7l and 89,000 mi.
Stalling and oil light again
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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Heavier oil viscosity may bring up the pressure enough to keep the light out, but if you do have a low oil pressure problem with the recommended oil you may want to find out why. A mechanical oil pressure gauge can attach to where the sender screws into.
Carbon build up between the throttle bore and blade can restrict air at idle and is certainly a recommended maintenance. Use carb cleaner/solvent, a toothbrush and a rag to clean the area and retry the idle quality.
Use an OEM PCV valve only. May sure that the rubber PCV breather hoses are still firm and not rotted or sucked flat while idling. Make sure that all vacuum hoses are connected at both ends under the hood.
Carbon build up between the throttle bore and blade can restrict air at idle and is certainly a recommended maintenance. Use carb cleaner/solvent, a toothbrush and a rag to clean the area and retry the idle quality.
Use an OEM PCV valve only. May sure that the rubber PCV breather hoses are still firm and not rotted or sucked flat while idling. Make sure that all vacuum hoses are connected at both ends under the hood.
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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24,498 Posts
What engine flush? Be careful about internal engine solvents/detergents washing out critical lubrication from bearings, etc. If the engine itself is in good condition, I wouldn't recommend an engine flush. See what comes out when draining the old oil first.
Is the underside of the oil filler cap and what you can see inside the valve covers fairly clean with no sludge/tan mayonnaise build-up?
Is the underside of the oil filler cap and what you can see inside the valve covers fairly clean with no sludge/tan mayonnaise build-up?
Agree with the oil flush maybe hurting it, Just thought with these engines it might be a good idea. Oil filler cap looks normal and the oil when I drained it looked dirty but not bad. Getting different opinions from friends about using 10W-40 oil, some say it would be ok, others don't recommend it. They say to stick with the 5W-30 or 10W-30 as per the owners manual
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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24,498 Posts
See if you can rent or borrow a mechanical oil pressure gauge. This would remove all doubts about warm idle oil pressure or bad parts.
There was a Chrysler TSB #08-36-99 (Google it) on earlier 2.7L's about replacing the oil switch connector itself as it has to 'vent' the backside of the switch to atmospheric pressure. Discussed here:
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Chrysler-Repair-807/2008/3/Oil-light-flickers-engine.htm
There was a Chrysler TSB #08-36-99 (Google it) on earlier 2.7L's about replacing the oil switch connector itself as it has to 'vent' the backside of the switch to atmospheric pressure. Discussed here:
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Chrysler-Repair-807/2008/3/Oil-light-flickers-engine.htm
Well, thanks for everyone's help and advice. I cleaned the throttle body and changed the PCV valve, it seems to almost be a new car. The idle is much much better and the oil light only seems to flicker when your at a red light for a very long time in the extreme high temps we have been having, so far all is well. Hopefully will be a reliable car!!
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