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Super Moderator
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Heavier oil viscosity may bring up the pressure enough to keep the light out, but if you do have a low oil pressure problem with the recommended oil you may want to find out why. A mechanical oil pressure gauge can attach to where the sender screws into.
Carbon build up between the throttle bore and blade can restrict air at idle and is certainly a recommended maintenance. Use carb cleaner/solvent, a toothbrush and a rag to clean the area and retry the idle quality.
Use an OEM PCV valve only. May sure that the rubber PCV breather hoses are still firm and not rotted or sucked flat while idling. Make sure that all vacuum hoses are connected at both ends under the hood.
 

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Super Moderator
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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23,889 Posts
What engine flush? Be careful about internal engine solvents/detergents washing out critical lubrication from bearings, etc. If the engine itself is in good condition, I wouldn't recommend an engine flush. See what comes out when draining the old oil first.
Is the underside of the oil filler cap and what you can see inside the valve covers fairly clean with no sludge/tan mayonnaise build-up?
 

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Super Moderator
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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23,889 Posts
See if you can rent or borrow a mechanical oil pressure gauge. This would remove all doubts about warm idle oil pressure or bad parts.
There was a Chrysler TSB #08-36-99 (Google it) on earlier 2.7L's about replacing the oil switch connector itself as it has to 'vent' the backside of the switch to atmospheric pressure. Discussed here:
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Chrysler-Repair-807/2008/3/Oil-light-flickers-engine.htm
 
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