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5 5 is the end of the code check, so if that's all you get that's good.
If it were me I would turn the screw a bit more as this can help with an occasional stall.
You're just adjusting/raising the minimum idle if for any reason the AIS looses its ability to maintain an idle.
For example, without the AIS maintaining an idle, the screw will only hold the throttle open enough for say 300 RPM.
Raising that to say, 600 RPM, will be the minimum idle speed without AIS influence.
If for example your correct idle speed is 800 RPM, the AIS will provide the extra air flow, but if it
can't for any reason maintain 800 RPM, the screw will not let it drop below 600 RPM.

Naturally, all RPM listed are for example.

Good Luck !!

Thanks
Randy
 

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Again, bad advice. Obviously, you had a problem before, having turned that screw already. Let's find the REAL problem and stop masking it. Let's do it right and solve the problem.

Have you checked all vacuum hoses and lines carefully, and tested the gaskets around the intake? With engine cold, you can spray a little EFI cleaner at them quickly, to see if it affects idle. If it changes, there is a leak. Then we'll go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
ohh i like the spraying the fuel cleaner idea. I didnt really know how to test that.
The few hoses i have all look good unless there are hidden hoses i dont know about.
The car use to bog down a lot at stop signs until i moved that screw up. It was worse when the ac was on. It seems fine unless i hop in it when its cold.

How do you know the iac motor is working? If the idle speed changes with load does that mean it works?
 

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Remove it from the TB and turn the key on just for a second or two. The pintle (tip) should move.

It's very possible, especially if the throttle body hasn't ever been cleaned inside, that the air passage for the AIS inside the TB is gummed up and blocked. If the air passage is restricted or blocked with dried, evaporated fuel and PCV emissions, it would behave the same as a bad AIS, because the airflow would be blocked and could not be varied. In that case, I would rebuild it (clean it and install all new gaskets.

http://www.allpar.com/fix/fuel/throttle-body-rebuild/
 

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Discussion Starter #25
i clean mine yearly . I bought a new gasket and need to put it on. I used a bit of gasket seal this last time. super thin coat.
thanks for the key idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
is there a 3.0 how to or is there nothing but the bottom gasket?
 

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i clean mine yearly . I bought a new gasket and need to put it on. I used a bit of gasket seal this last time. super thin coat.
thanks for the key idea.
When you say you clean it, what actions do you take? Just spray down the throat? Or remove, disassemble and clean the idle air passage and injector?
 

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Bob posted a link for a TBI, not a 3.0L like you have.

Thanks
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #29
i take out both the iac and the trottle sensor and spray down all small holes while it is off the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
no injector , it is a 3.0 .
 

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OK, still, did you disassemble the TB and inspect and clean the AIS passage?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
any hole i could squirt down cleaner i did, until the black was gone.
 

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OK, so if you didn't remove the TB , or at least remove the AIS, you don't know what's going on with that AIS passage. It can cause these symptoms, as can other things.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
i took it all off and apart. done it many times.
 

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Just a shot in the dark here but has anyone considered a bad plug/wire or cap? I had the same issue with a stumble/ rough idle and it turned out the dis cap was cracked right by plug # 1. It caused most of the symptoms that you are experiencing including a crappy idle. After replacing the cap/ rotor/ wires and plugs (gap was very high on the rear three) it has been smooth as can be. Try the simple things too. I have learned this motor seems to love NGK plugs or champions copper
 

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Worn, fouled or wrong spark plugs did cross my mind. This could all be an ignition problem and not fuel related. Always begin with an ignition system check.
Cold plugs are harder to fire than warm plugs because they require a higher firing voltage. A weakened or compromised ignition system will usually reveal itself at a cold start and the first couple of minutes of driving.
Look for carbon fouling on the plug tips. This carbon may 'burn off' after driven awhile. Carbon will conduct high voltage to ground instead of across the gap, causing a misfire.
 

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As chrisg05 said, I have also seen many 3.0 dist caps with the same cracks causing sever running problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
i put a new cap on every year. i got one with bronze contacts . The wires are accel 8mm. the plugs are champion. All done last year.
 

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I have had distributor caps come out of the box with hairline cracks right by the plug wire. It is always in my experience been near plug wire terminal #1. The other thing that I had to do was adjust the dizzy timing.
I discovered the hairline crack one night when I saw blue spark.
just like with the 2.5, these engines love to eat ignition parts.
 
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